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blind_elk

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Everything posted by blind_elk

  1. blind_elk
    If the speedo and P/S are still working, then it shouldn't be a problem with the cable. The Japanese seem less opposed to fiddling odometers (winding them back). It's possible some sort of damage was done that prevents the odometer going past 100k.
  2. blind_elk
    You can probably fix it yourself. Usually, the problem is the screw that holds the piggy-back solenoid onto the rod mechanism comes loose, and doesn't operate on the rod mechanism. Just remove the door panel, and tighten the locking screw on the solenoid (make sure it's in the right relative position).
  3. blind_elk
    And, if I heard correctly last night, the government has legislated that ALL fuels must contain some proportion (I think 2%, but will increase - Qld going for 5%) of Ethanol.Was a bit concerned that they produced V-Racing to prove that the Ethanol wouldn't harm engines - experimenting with our engines!!!! Anyway, not a problem for me, as I use Ultimate (mainly because the Citibank credit card gives me 5% rebate).
  4. blind_elk
    (as stated numerous times previously) You should be able to see the rough section in the cam where the key used to be. Some visualisation will let you align the CAS correctly. If the CAS is even 1 tooth out of alignment, the engine will not start and run. You should also note, as stated numerous times previously, that some timing lights give an incorrect timing indication (usually double the "real" timing).
  5. blind_elk
    If the battery is REALLY D E A D, you need to let the jumping battery (your GF's car) be connected to yours for 10-15 minutes - just let GF car idle while jumpers connected to your battery. Then you stand a chance of getting yours to start.
  6. blind_elk
    Did you bed the pads in against the new rotors? I've never had any problem with Ultimates and squealing.
  7. blind_elk
    Not really sure you would know the meaning of "old"
  8. blind_elk
    My 1974 180B SSS had synchro on 1st. My 1971 240Z had synchro on 1st. I think my dad's 1968 XT Falcon wagon had synchro on 1st (it was an option, but it was there).If your R32 doesn't have synchro on 1st, then it's because the synchro is rooted, not because Nissan didn't design it with synchro. It won't have synchro on reverse.
  9. blind_elk
    The only difference between your current setup and the RB20 is that your current setup gets its boost signal from the inlet plenum, so it is measuring boost at the inlet valve. The RB20 is measuring boost at the compressor wheel, and as such is subject to significant spiking of the signal as you build initial boost. Your new bleed valve has to T into the line going to the wastegate actuator (regardless of where that line comes from).
  10. blind_elk
    First off, do you have oil in the diff? Do you have enough oil in the diff? Do you have new oil in the diff? Pretty sure the ABS sensors are on the output shafts of the diff. So all you need to do is transfer those from your current diff to the replacement diff.
  11. blind_elk
    Pin 29 will be the O2 sensor signal.
  12. blind_elk
    How many volts are being supplied to the ECU while you are cranking the engine?
  13. blind_elk
    if the battery is D E A D, it won't ever start on a push-start, because the ECU needs power to set everything up and control the engine.
  14. blind_elk
    Can't say, really. Just they were done professionally, so I can only guess they are legal (they looked pretty ok for height when I ran them, considering the extra weight in the front of a GTS4).
  15. blind_elk
    No it's not. That would entail a re-tune to compensate for the higher amounts of fuel that would be delivered on each opening of the injector.Get the injectors looked at. They may be repairable. If not, then replace them with RB20 injectors.
  16. blind_elk
    Try removing the terminals and connect the charger directly to the battery posts.
  17. blind_elk
    There are 5 wheel nuts holding the rotor against the hub.
  18. blind_elk
    I've got some from my GTS4, but they've been reset to lower the car. Pretty sure they are still legal ride height. You can have all 4 for $50.
  19. blind_elk
    Pretty sure the old-school radiators connect top-passenger-side, bottom-driver-side, which is opposite to what you have described.
  20. blind_elk
    Where is it leaking? Isn't it reparable / recoreable? (I know the R30 and 240Z aren't interchangeable)
  21. blind_elk
    If it's like the R32, the (front) rotor should basically fall off once the caliper is lifted out of the way.
  22. blind_elk
    It will be the outlet. And that sounds about right.
  23. blind_elk
    Not the whole unit, just the springs!
  24. blind_elk
    Where would I have to post it to?
  25. blind_elk
    It should be driveable enough to get you to the dyno, after you put everything in. If the tuner you plan to use is mentioned on the Wolf website, then they will know what they are doing.
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