blind_elk

What oil (brand, grade) did you put in? Have you checked oil level? No oil leaks around the filter?

He said it's an AUTO. They don't have synchros. And I believe you fill them through the dipstick tube.

How are you going to get the ring compressor to work installing the piston from underneath? And why would you want to disturb the crank bearings when you remove the crank?

(if you fit a new filter) You have to run the engine first, so that you fill the filter before checking the level.Also, make sure the 'O' ring comes off with the old filter. And the new 'O' ring doesn't have any little nicks in it.

Pistons can only come out / go in through the top of the block. You need to have the head off for that - obviously - and the sump off the get at the big ends.

Good. I need a new door.

Bet he's broken the half-moon key in the end of the exhaust cam. Which is what I suggested days ago!

Don't think it will remove the boost cut - because I think they don't have one.

Checked the coolant? It could be coolant coming out through a weeping welsh plug. I'm positive it isn't going to be fuel. Considering the fuel lines are all on the opposite side of the engine. And any fuel coming in contact with the hot exhaust headers would either ignite (worst case) or simply vapourise.

Yokohama make a 215/40x16 in the S.drive model. This is a performance tyre, though. They don't seem to make a similar size in the economy model tyres. Anyway, have a chat to Andrew at Traction Tyres in Rowville (www.tractiontyres.com.au).

Is your ECU still under some sort of warranty? Have you spoken to Microtech about it?

Standard investigative process, move items around, see if the problem follows. What happens when you swap #4 coil pack with, say, #6? Which cylinder isn't working properly. And what about swapping #4 spark plug with #6?

Yes, GTSt = GTS4

Check the ex cam for the matching half-moon key (for CAS).

The bump stop is supposed to hit the top of the shock body in cases where the suspension travels too low. So, you probably have your bump stop installed correctly (as per the second photo). I found setting the circlip for the spring seat at the highest setting gave a reasonable ride height.

Yes

AIR temp and WATER temp are 2 totally different things. RB20 uses the hot wire in the AFM as an indicator of air temp. RB26 has a dedicated air temp sensor, located in the inlet plenum just behind the throttle body. Cold start should not have that big an impact on fuel economy, unless the engine always runs cold.

The RB20 also has the half-moon key (or at least it does until it breaks off!). You should be able to see the rough surface in the ex cam where it used to be - now use mental visioning to align the CAS. The CAS can only fit in one alignment, otherwise the engine will not even start (might cough, but will not start).

It's been covered numerous times before - SEARCH!

That's unusual. Did you talk to Robbie? Talk to Robbie - you can call him direct on 03 9761 3609

Adjustable bushes give a limited adjustment range, of the order of +/- 0.75 deg . Adjustable rods give almost infinite adjustment. But, road surfaces, in general, camber to the left. So, if you let go of the stering wheel, the car will drift left as gravity pushes it down the camber. What exactly is the "issue" you have with castor?

The "white smoke" is more than likely steam. One of the by-products of the combustion process is water, which comes out in the exhaust stream as steam.

Yes, you might have cooked the pad, especially left foot braking. If you were resting your foot on the brake pedal even the slightest, you could have been adding frictional heat. I've "been there, done that". Calder, 240Z, stock brakes. Million miles an hour down front straight, into 150 m, STAND on picks, sideways into turn 1. Next time round, same thing - Oh Shoot! hard pedal, absolutely no retardation. Good thing the gate was open on the escape road!

Go back to 1st year highschool science (it could even be late primary school, so long since I did it) and review air pressure. It's 760 mmHg = 1 atmosphere (1 bar, 14.7 psi, 32 ft water).The gauge says x100 mm Hg - therefore, any reading on the gauge has to be multiplied by 100. I doubt you could ever produce 700 bar boost pressure!

Did you bleed the master cylinder? I normally have some pressure in the system before opening the bleed nipple. Hold the pedal down while re-tighten bleed nipple, then let pedal up.