blind_elk

I think you mean 700 mmHg (7 x 100). Actually, 1 bar = 760 mmHg

If you are in Melbourne, you can borrow mine (which came with the new clutch).

For doing what to the clutch?

Advanced Engine Management (Wolf) have a "black box" solution for this problem. Maybe Microtech have one too. I'll try and remember to check mine out tonight and let you know how the Wolf box works.

Not made easy by having different horizontal scales. If you look really closely, there are differences between the "with VCT" and "without VCT" graphs. But you made two changes - boost and VCT. You need to run back-to-back, with only 1 change, namely VCT on / off. When you start changing other variables, you can't possibly tell which change had the effect. And running them a month apart could also interfere with the results - different weather, dyno recalibrated, different ramp rate, who knows.

Have you considered that the one-way valve in the vacuum booster hose might be cactus?

VCT generally operates between about 1500 rpm and about 4500 rpm. So outright power at 6000+ shouldn't vary.

Would seem the replacement temp sensor was faulty - the ECU thinks the engine is hot, when it's actually cold. So tries to start a "hot" engine. You need to reconnect the sensor after the engine starts, otherwise the ECU always thinks the engine is cold, and dumps fuel in there - fuel economy -> crap.

I was warned, by a knowledgeable person, when I proposed this some time ago that the engine would likely ping because the head wasn't designed to handle a turbo. What ECU are you running? How much was shaved off the head? And did you pack the cam towers to compensate? (maybe the cam timing is "off" (retarded)) Why not get a head from a wrecker, get it machined (port, profile combustion chamber) to suit a turbo app. Might be a bit more expensive, but I'm sure it would be a better outcome in the long run. I think a L28 head is unsuitable because the L28 is a bigger bore than the L24 (?)

If you are re-registering an interstate car in Vic, you need a RWC. Talk to Daniel at DJM Automotive in E Burwood - 9808 2590

The Pintara with the KA24 is a FWD. So, the KA24 is the E-W version. It superseded the R31 Pintara, which was RWD.

KA24 is an east-west engine.

If you did it on the 33, then you should be able to do it on the 34. Nissan don't create that much of a hassle in design changes between models.

How much fuel pressure do you have? You do have it plumbed right-way-round? Having to bypass the reg directly into the rail suggests otherwise - the reg is on the OUTLET side of the rail, ie pump -> filter -> rail / injectors -> reg -> return -> tank

Yes, I know what a seal looks like. And yes, I'm aware of many members running ridiculous boost numbers without any reported seal problems. It's not my mechanic promoting the theory, it's another "head expert". Actually, I recall hearing that turbos supplied by the guy who built mine almost invariably leak oil. Maybe time for a good aftermarket unit. Would forged pistons have any effect - my theory being the piston cools and shrinks during prolonged idle, and oil doesn't get scraped away properly from the cylinder wall?

Then what causes the oil burn during / after extended periods of idling? Where else should I be looking?

I've been having a bit of trouble since my engine rebuild, losing (burning) oil. My "tame mechanic" thinks it is a problem with the valve stem seals, although they were supposed to have been replaced at the time. He has been asking around about various things related to fixing the problem. One place told him that there is a problem with the seals and boost levels - anything above 15psi and the pressure escapes up the valve guide and blows the seal off the top of the valve. When the engine is opened up, you find the seals just lying around beside the valve. Anyone have any experience of this? Is it BS? Tx.

Lift the carpet - I had my master leaking down between the carpet and firewall.

Well, have you tested to see which cylinder(s) cause the rough running?

The handle end of a large handled screwdriver makes an ideal tensioner lock. And another large screwdriver through the cam wheel will lock it against the front cam tower while you undo the retaining nut.

What sort of "electronics" problem? The codes are error codes. And they only get logged if there is a problem / fault in the particular system - they do not indicate that the particular system worked. eg knock sensors, the error code is logged because of, perhaps, a faulty sensor, not that the sensor detected knock.

Ok, stock RB20DET exhaust (LCA = 120, duration = 240): Opens 60 BBDC, closes TDC. This gives 5 degrees overlap with the inlet. Lobe Separation = 117.5 Using a Tomei with LCA = 115, duration = 256: Opens 63 BBDC, closes 13 ATDC. Gives 18 deg overlap with inlet. Lobe Separation = 115. AFAIK, turbos don't like a lot of overlap. I'm going to suggest retarding the exhaust cam 10 degrees, but an expert in these matters is free to shoot me down.

Try www.pdrtek.com.au

Some timing lights give an incorrect reading using the "timing loop". Check ignition timing by inserting a spark plug lead between coil and spark plug on #1. I have a spreadsheet (at home) with all the physical characteristics of the standard cams - I'll have a look tonight and see what effect moving 1 LCA by 5deg will have on overlap, etc.

I've done the upgrade, fitting a Stagea RD25DET into my R32 GTS4. I also fitted an aftermarket ECU, lightweight flywheel and HD clutch assembly. I'm still using the original gearbox. Went from 115 awkW to 180 awkW. The RB25 is so torquey that I ended up changing to the Stagea diffs (4.1 instead of 4.375). Building a RB30DET is a lot of stuffing around. RB25DET is factory- just buy one and fit it. Get a R33 halfcut, and you will have everything you need.