blind_elk

Ok, stock RB20DET exhaust (LCA = 120, duration = 240): Opens 60 BBDC, closes TDC. This gives 5 degrees overlap with the inlet. Lobe Separation = 117.5 Using a Tomei with LCA = 115, duration = 256: Opens 63 BBDC, closes 13 ATDC. Gives 18 deg overlap with inlet. Lobe Separation = 115. AFAIK, turbos don't like a lot of overlap. I'm going to suggest retarding the exhaust cam 10 degrees, but an expert in these matters is free to shoot me down.

Try www.pdrtek.com.au

Some timing lights give an incorrect reading using the "timing loop". Check ignition timing by inserting a spark plug lead between coil and spark plug on #1. I have a spreadsheet (at home) with all the physical characteristics of the standard cams - I'll have a look tonight and see what effect moving 1 LCA by 5deg will have on overlap, etc.

I've done the upgrade, fitting a Stagea RD25DET into my R32 GTS4. I also fitted an aftermarket ECU, lightweight flywheel and HD clutch assembly. I'm still using the original gearbox. Went from 115 awkW to 180 awkW. The RB25 is so torquey that I ended up changing to the Stagea diffs (4.1 instead of 4.375). Building a RB30DET is a lot of stuffing around. RB25DET is factory- just buy one and fit it. Get a R33 halfcut, and you will have everything you need.

The errorcode is raised because there is a problem in the operation or circuitry of the knock sensors. It DOES NOT indicate that there has been knock. The high idle will, therefore, be unrelated to this error. Search for fixes to the AAC or adjusting the TPS. Those are the 2 most likely causes of high idle.

As far as I am aware, you cannot retune R33 ECUs. What about a Wolf V500 - cost is around $2500, installed and tuned. "GHOSTT' - R33, lots of go-fast goodies - pushes 450+ kw at the rear treads. And Australian designed and manufactured.

You won't be able to measure it, because the clearance is only set while the engine is running.

That's too high. The fluid level needs to be between the MIN MAX markers when the ignition is ON.

How old is the oil? What grade? What brand? Of course the pressure will vary with revs, because the pump is driven by the engine.

My experience is they are almost bulletproof.

Look for splits in the IC piping - a split that only opens under boost.

Still got the steering rack?

"Petrol cap"? In the engine bay? You mean the oil filler cap? Try having the injectors cleaned. Try cleaning the AAC valve. Check / replace the air filter panel. Check base ignition timing. Is it auto or manual?

You, sir, are a FU(KWIT. And we don't need your kind giving the rest of us a bad reputation.

If the CAS is out of alignment by even one tooth, the engine WILL NOT run - there are probably only 10 teeth to assist with alignment, so one tooth is a BIG mis-alignment. If the half-moon key has been broken from the end of the exhaust cam, there is NO guarantee you can align it back to where it came from. The only way is a good sense of visualisation to align the CAS correctly. Even with the CAS mis-aligned, you should still have spark and fuel, just not at the right places / times. This tends to suggest the CAS is cactus. You didn't get paint inside it, did you?

Use the allen key type.

How old is the battery? Just because it checks out as ok doesn't mean it's accepting and holding charge. Check the battery voltage before you even crank the engine. Then check it while you crank the engine. Is the alternator working properly, and the regulator. If the regulator (built into the alternator) is cactus, then it might be overcharging the battery. And batteries don't like being overcharged.

The "LSD" part is the centre - the bit the ring gear is bolted to.

If you had your A/C on when you last turned off the engine, it will still be on when you go to re-start. Make sure you turn it off before actually cranking the engine.10 is a bit heavy for starting (which is the only time it's important), but not too bad. Nissan's spec is 7.5W30 - you'd probably be slightly better using a 5W40.

In my 32, I managed to fit a can in front of the battery. See if you can jiggle the battery back a bit to create a space.

Leave the car overnight with the mechanic. That's the only way you will demo it to him.nizmonut, you really using 25W50 oil? 25 is waaayyy too heavy, and 50 ain't much better. PS - how about just having ONE thread on the problem.

Is the battery and alternator working properly (charging correctly)? You might be getting voltage spikes which are frying the ECU.

So, you are going to spend an additional $500, simply so you can save $250 on the clutch. Bad economics, by my book.

No reason why you can't use a 4.3 . You will gain a slight improvement in acceleration. The speedo will read slightly high (you won't be travelling as fast as the speedo says). The engine will run slightly higher revs at a given gear / speed.

The GT-R clutches are probably more expensive simply because they are for a GT-R. How much are you likely to spend on the conversion simply to save some $$$ on the clutch plate? The push / pull difference is in the pressure plate, not the driven (clutch) plate. The pressure plate doesn't appear in your parts list.