blind_elk

Frankly, there's not much at all wrong about the behaviour. The only possible concern might be the drop at idle, but that could be purely a function of the oil itself. What brand and grade of oil did your mechanic use? Can you hear the tapping while driving, or only when you are "under the bonnet"? It's possibly a dirty lifter - try some Nulon "Lifter Clen" (I think that's its name). Otherwise its probably piston slap, which is a sign of engine wear.

150 Lonsdale.

I have a R32 GTS4, with a RB25DET sitting in front of the standard (R32) gearbox, and (I believe) a RB20DET flywheel and clutch.

Did he have a new clutch fitted? It looks like a clutch alignment tool.

Vicroads takes credit cards.

Most decent wheel / tyre places should carry those nuts. Autobarn, Repco etc might have them.

I'd expect the engine to at least start and run on only 5. Might be a bit WReXxy, but should still run. But it's not a good sign to have fuel leaking from an injector. Should get them checked out. Best case, it can be repaired, and all 6 can be cleaned and flowed. Worst case, 6 new injectors on the shopping list.

If they don't have 0.8s, buy a feeler gauge set as well, and gap them yourself.

Item: L24E ex R30 Age: 285k Condition: Runs Well Price: Free To Fit: (What car) R30 (manual) Location: Melbourne Contact: reply to thread, or PM

temp sender spec: cold (20) = 2.5kohm hot (80) = 0.3kohm

The gap on your plugs looks huge. What gap is it?

The engine will rotate backwards on the engine mounts. The firewall will stop it rotating too far. You will probably be advised to disconnect the top radiator hose.

Noel is a guru of the old-school Skyline. If he doesn't know what you need, he should know who does.

Contact Noel Sinclair (Prince Skyline Register of NDSOC) - [email protected], 0438 511 652

If that were true, then this wouldn't happen: If anything, it might be jammed shut, but then the engine would tend to overheat. I strongly suspect that there is nothing wrong at all. But the temp sender can be tested in situ, simply by measuring its electrical resistance at cold and hot. (Don't have the specs readily available - will check tonight).

Yes, the ROLLING DIAMETER needs to be the same on ALL FOUR CORNERS. The simplest way to achieve this is to run the SAME SIZE TYRES on the SAME SIZE RIMS on all 4 corners. (Also simplifies evening out tyre wear by swapping F<->R). I'm going to recommend switching to 17s, because you get a bit more sidewall flex available (you should note F1s run quite a tall profile tyre , especially on the rear)

I'm no tyre engineer, but I find a 235/45x17 on an 8" rim seems to work well enough on my GTS4.

The engine fans in the Nissans, in general, are quite efficient little beasts, and are quite capable of maintaining the engine temperature. Even on the hottest of days. 400k to a tank is pretty normal from most RB engines.

It will depend on why the compression is low as to whether new pistons will sole it. It is apparent that the engine needs to come apart, and in that case you may as well fit some new pistions. But simply fitting new pistons won't necessarily solve the compression problem. If you have broken rings, then new pistons wont fix it. If you have a crappy valve, new pistons won't fix it. The next step is to get a leakdown test, to determine where the actual loss of compression is occuring.

It's the little silvery cylinder attached to the RH strut tower. Just follow the fuel hose back from the fuel rail, you should find it.

When you consider most of that $1000 is the install, it makes sense to try and do it yourself. The job is relatively easy, with only a few spanners / sockets required. The alignment will not be so far out that it will be a problem then to drive the car to the workshop for an alignment check.

How hot does it get in Queenstown? I would expect that the standard IC could more than handle the task. The air going into the turbo is cooler, therefore the air charge temperature doesn't rise as high. The air passing through the IC is cooler, so should draw more heat away from the IC and air charge.

I'm running those on both mine (R30 / R32), "chrome". They use a 12mm hex key (giant allan key) to fit / remove. I think Autobarn and the like have them, certainly any half decent wheel / tyre place should have them.

Error codes in Nissan ECUs are persistent, ie they "hang around" for something like 50 start cycles. Try clearing (resetting) the ECU, see if you still have the error code. If you have spark, then the CAS is working correctly. That also rules out the coil packs. And most engines will start without an AFM. Do you have fuel "going into the engine" because you have fuel at the rail, or because you have seen the injectors working? Are you sure the cams are set correctly? You had the crank at TDC when you assembled the cambelt?

If you are in Melbourne, you can call around to my place and take my old L24E away (I've upgraded (?) to a L20ET).