blind_elk

All engines rev high on a cold start. Back to the starting problem - how old is the battery? When were the injectors last cleaned?

At 2000 rpm, I highly doubt it's boost noise. It's simply induction noise - the sound of air rushing into the pod. A boost controller won't affect it.

What was supposed to read ECU? NEO, or Series 1?

It's been covered a squillion times.

Is that 65 ft/lb? And tighten 1 3 5 2 4

Hang on - you've listed 2 AFMs in your original post. Try unplugging whichever one it is.

Nissan uses a special goop. Did your "performance shop" actually remove the actuator and apply the Silastic to the mating surfaces, or simply slap a bit on the outside over the leak?

They aren't S2 coils? Or it isn't a RB20 ECU.

Yes, you may may have fouled the plugs by just running the engine always cold. It might also be that the battery is a bit "below par". The ECU requires a minimum voltage (I think it's around 7 volts) to stay "alive". If the battery is a bit sus, it might be able to turn the engine, but not have enough in reserve to keep the ECU alive. Try a jump from a good battery, then take the beast for a good drive to clean her out.

No, I think they need to be FOUR WD (Patrols, Land Cruisers, etc), not ALL WD. GT-Rs are still basically RWD, so you would need chains on the rear axle.

Which all goes to prove that the engine won't warm up at idle, even after 9 minutes. The problem is that when tye engine is cold, the ECU dumps a load of fuel in to keep the engine running. At idle, the spark plugs aren't at optimum temperature, so the spark isn't as good, and the fuel doesn't burn fully. The excess fuel washes oil from the cylinder walls, and may dilute the oil, thus reducing its lubricating ability. You would all be aware that taxis run forever without an engine faulure. The reason is that basically the engine never gets cold. The greatest amount of damage is done to an engine while it is cold. So forget what Gillie and his old man say and do - just get in, turn on, and go. There is another thread that discusses the pros and cons (mostly cons) of letting the engine idle to warm it up. The main point I can make here is that if you are warming up by idling, you are burning fuel but going nowhere. No wonder you have shite fuel economy!

Snow season starts "officially" on Queens Birthday weekend. If you go to any of the major snowfields, you will most likely need chains (unless you have a 4WD, I think they are exempt). I think most of the majors have a bus service that can get you up to the snow - you park your car in a safe car park, below the snowline, so you won't need chains. Mt Donna Buang and Mt Baw Baw out towards Warragul are "sightseeing" areas. Mount Buller (near Mansfield) and Falls Creek (near Bright) are for serious skiiers. I would suggest you get a polarising filter for your camera - the snow can be very "glarey".

It should have oil at the top of the engine before the engine even fires (just on cranking), so no need to worry about the higher revs at cold start.

RB25DET (ex Stagea) - torque to burn. Stagea diffs, front and rear. Aftermarket ECU. It will be close in performance to a stock GT-R.

1-on-1-off is usually the switch. Been covered a squillion times.

Working from side towards centre: Indicators are right on the corners. There are 2 globes, 1 for "front-on" view, 1 for "side-on" view. Then parking lights. Activated at "1-click" Then headlights - lo-beam. Activated at "2-click". Parkers stay on. Then hi-beam. Activated by pushing indicator stalk forwards. Lo-beam goes out. Parkers stay on.

If it keeps generating heaps of boost, it's likely the wastegate isn't opening. And if you keep generating those levels of boost, be prepared to say goodbye to your engine. So check the actuation of the wastegate, pronto!

Actually, if you live in Melbourne, you can call round to my place and grab my old L24E

The L28 is already fuel injected - doesn't need the L24 stuff.

The gearbox seems strong enough. I have upgraded to a RB25, and it pushes 150+ AwkW - gearbox hasn't shown any signs of weakness.

Yours might be called a GTS4 because it has 4 doors. Mine is called a GTS4 because it has AWD, just like the GT-R. Have a look in the engine bay, down near the starter motor. If you have the AWD version, then there will be a differential housing hanging off the side of the sump, as well as a drive shaft across to the front wheel.

Most cars now, the gauge stays where it was when the engine was stopped. Surely you must have noticed it before now.

OFF is good. Sure it's not yellow? (low fuel warning).

What about a L28 ex 280ZX? To fit a RB, I'm told that all that is required is a R31 cross-member. You might need a custom gearbox cross-member.

1. Maybe the rheostat to adjust the brightness has been turned right down. 2. Can't help you. 3. Adjusting the idle will not affect the rest of the tune. If you are concerned about the richness, take it to someone who knows Microtechs and get them to tune it properly.