blind_elk

Don't see why not. You can slot non-slotted rotors.

www.whiteline.com.au has all the goodies for a 32 GT-R. And I think they had technical stuff, like optimum wheel alignment figures. Also check out SydneyKid's group buy for suspension components.

Actually, thinking of going down with a trailer to remove some crap that is stacked up the back of my block. While I'm there, any of the cement blocks that support their fence been left on my block get loaded onto the trailer as well!

Trolley jack under the engine crossmember. Axle stands under the lower control arms, where they pivot on the crossmember.

Rates Mel - Bris are always higher than Bris - Mel. There are very few return loads Bris - Mel, so they are happy for any $$$ they can get. And Ni is looking at Bris - Mel, if I read it correctly.

Yeh, dezz checked it out, and the fence is now out of the way. Now my builder can start. Tks dezz, great photos.

You may have filled a cylinder or 2 with water, which basically locks the engine. Try turning the engine over by hand. If it won't turn, remove the spark plugs and try it.

Well, the silence is deafening. Not even an acknowledgement to the letter. Meantime, my builder is ready to go, but the temporary fencing around the neighbour's house is too far onto my block. I rang the mob last Friday to ask them to move the fencing back to the title boundary. I hade to ring THREE TIMES - 9am, "they're all on the phone, I'll get someone to call you"; 2pm, "they've been been in meetings all morning, I'll give them the message again"; 3pm, "they're all on the phone" "I'll wait" (for at least 5 minutes!) Finally, "yes we'll get that organised, may take a few days". Checked it out Tuesday night - no activity on the fence front, but there are fresh tyre tracks and a nice timber path has been laid over the muddy surface so they can unload the roof batts and trek them across the boundary. Section of fence has been swung open like agate, and not even bothered to "close" it afterwards. 4pm Wednesday, call comes in - "it will be done today", ie yesterday, Wednesday. That should mean it has already been done. It hadn't been done by midday - I was sitting there watching my investment. Anyone available - dezz? - to check today that the temporary fence is basically up against the garage of the neighbour's house? Really appreciate any help here. If fencing isn't moved by Friday, it certainly will be on Saturday!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I used Toll Autotrans to bring my 180B from Brisbane to Melbourne late last year. Cost just over $400 depot-to-depot.

Then the globe is probably blown.Check the fluid level in the ATTESSA reservoir in the boot. GT-Rs (Skylines in general) run RICH on boost - it's quite normal to see black smoke under those conditions.

I have a similar problem - been suggested that valve stem seals might need replacing.

You've probably flattened the battery.

Might just be a dirty / faulty valve - bit of spit over the valve should show it up.

Have you checked the fluid in the clutch master cylinder?

Is the CAS mounted correctly? Does the exhaust cam still have the half-moon key that correctly aligns the CAS?

In general, you will find 235s to be cheaper than 225s, because they are a common size - not many cars take a 225. I would suggest the B/S Supercats. The others may be cheaper, but they are "cheap". And you should not skimp on tyres - they are all that connect you and the car to the road.

Or some young idiot, in a hotted up hoon-mobile, comes around the corner totally out of control. If you can't accelerate and get out of the way, say goodbye to your wheels. How about a $$$ reason - when you are slowing down with clutch still engaged, the injectors are not working, until revs drop to around 1500. If you clutch in, the engine goes to "idle", and the injectors start working to keep the engine running. So, coasting into a stop with clutch engaged saves fuel.

The RB20 didn't run a resistor pack, so you will need to set up a +12V supply to the resistors (single power in, 6 powers out).

There are SIX indicators - 2 front, 2 rear, and 2 side (in the 32, they are in the same unit as the front indicators)

Some idiot starts reversing out of a drive beside you? Some idiot pulls out from a parking space beside you?Frankly, what does down-shifting do other than waste fuel on the heel-toe? If you are in a position where you need to stop fairly quickly, you probably don't have time to down-change. If you have plenty of time, friction (in the drive train) will do most of the slowing for you.

What excactly are you having trouble with? The alternator, etc wires simply plug exactly as the did to the RB20 - at least they did when I did the same conversion, and I installed a full custom loom aftermarket ECU.

Depends on the oil and the condition of the engine. My RB25DET sits around the '4' mark (? , 1st line up) when everything's good (ie correct oil level in sump) and engine up to operating temp. I'm using Mobil 1 15W50 in an engine rebuilt about 10k ago. As I said earlier, it doesn't matter what the reading is so much as it's stable.

Wire brush and elbow grease.

How old is the oil? What type is it (mineral / synth)? What grade? When the oil gets hot, such as after spirited driving as you have done, it becomes "thinner", and can't hold the same pressure at idle. Absolute pressure is not as important as consistent pressure.

Isn't the simple answer : You have oversteer BECAUSE you have lost traction (in the rear)?