blind_elk

Have you checked the fuse?

Try getting the injectors cleaned.

I think .26mm plug gap is WAAAAYYYY to small. Your engine should be capable of using near stock gap of 1.1mm. Maybe 1mm should be the least you would need. Some timing lights give a reading double the actual timing. The safest way to get a proper timing is to use an old spark plug lead inserted between #1 coil and #1 spark plug, then set the timing "old school". And was the ecu flashed on a dyno, or is it something someone says worked in another car?

The TPS has 2 components - a SENSOR and a SWITCH. The switch tells the ECU that the throttle is closed, and it is for situations like when the throttle closes during (manual) gear changes. If the switch is not set correctly, then it can cause the ECU to maintain a high idle speed because it thinks the throttle is open. Resistance between pins 1 & 2 on the TPS should be 0 ohms at "throttle closed".

How can you be certain that the car has never been crashed? Have you owned it from new?

Last night, some POS stole an unregistered Ford Courier from my driveway in Tarneit. Vehicle is a white 4-door ute, with bullbar and sunroof. If you spot it, please advised Wyndham North police station. (although I won't be holding my breath for its return) TIA.

Don't expect any size sway bar would have stopped that happening. Get the "red mist" under control first, then get the car under control.

Frankly, if its for the street, why on earth do you need 400hp?

What happens if you swap wheels L<->R? F<->R?

I'm theorising that you have warped the head, although I could be wrong. I'm predicting that the lowest compression was in #3/#4. How much water was in the radiator when you finally got it home? When you did the initial coolant change, did you make sure the cooling system was full? via the system bleed valve? If it is a warped head, you should replace it - DO NOT plane it flat.

Correct me if I'm wrong, but you can't have a waste spark ignition on a stock ECU. The ECU fires the spark, and it fires them one at a time, not in pairs.

I think you are asking where to get a 4.1 ratio for a gtst - yes? GT-R = 4.111:1 Stagea = 4.083:1 All the Skyline / Stagea range use the "R200" differential. The whole differential unit will bolt into your GTSt, although I think if you use the Stagea gears, transfer the crown wheel and pinion to your current diff centre (I understand Stageas run an open - non-LSD - diff centre). Either way, you might need to change the speedo drive gear in the gearbox - a GT-R one swaps straight in.

Try Joe @ Azzco on Old Geelong Rd, Hoppers. (While you're waiting, you (and your GF) could browse Sexyland!)

Turns out I'm a panic merchant. Got a man around who cleared the plastic shopping bags away from the back of the frig compartment - all fixed.

Just for Ben: What ECU is being used? Factory? Chipped? Aftermarket? What fuel pump? What is the fuel pressure? And the O2 sensor will have absolutely minimal EFFECT on fuel consumption in city, ie stop / start, driving. The O2 sensor only contributes when in closed loop, ie constant throttle, driving.

So what exactly did you do to convert to efi? ECU? Fuel pump? Fuel pressure? Does it seem to drive any differently? (highly unlikely the O2 sensor will have ANY effect, especially if you are in a city.)

Older R32 ignitors are prone to cause problems when they get hot. If you find the problem goes away after the engine has had a chance to cool a bit, then that will tend to confirm the ignitor as the culprit.

Yes (actually GTS4). Tip - persistence. good skills at balancing the diff on a hydraulic jack.

Never had a car with thermo that couldn't idle when the thermo cut in - factory ECU or aftermarket ECU, or carbs.

My 6yo refrigerator is exhibiting the symptoms of a low refrigerant level. I have the frig compartment cranked up to the max, but can only get it down to around 13C (should be around 4C). The freezer is about half, but only run around -3C (should be around -18C). Just wondering if there is a refrigeration mechanic out there who can confirm the diagnosis and possibly fix. TIA

The diff in a RB25 sump is probably NOT the same as either a RB20 or RB26 diff. If the RB25 is from a Stagea, then the diff is a 4.083:1 . Not sure what the R33 GTS4 diff ratio is. But it is probably not 4.375:1 (R32 GTS4) or 4.111:1 (RB26) Assuming the RB26 comes with a sump, the simplest solution is to swap the RB20 differential unit* into the RB26 sump. * differential unit = crown wheel + pinion

If you have fuel diluting the engine oil, you have a problem. I would strongly recommend an oil change immediately, then investigate why the oil is being contaminated by petrol (possibly a blowby problem). And gutting the cat can be highly expensive - if you get caught with a gutted cat. Replace it if you think it's contributing to the problem.

You don't say exactly what condition causes it to "pop". It might be that the TPS isn't shutting off correctly, causing the engine to over-fuel on gear changes (throttle closed situations). The flames can often be caused by a small leak in the exhaust that allows fresh air to be drawn into the exhaust to mix with hot fuel-rich gasses, creating an explosive mixture.

XKLABA, You are talking about the gauge, and, yes, they are problematic in that the sender sometimes fails or gives erratic signals. I'm talking about the "Oh $HIT" light. I can't recall ever having the light come on even if the gauge is reading 0. Only time is when I genuinely have low oil, and therefore low, ie 0, oil pressure.

Have you checked the oil level in the sump? Have you changed the oil recently? (if not, maybe you should). My experience is that the oil pressure light is usually not caused by a fault in the sender; it genuinely means that there is no oil pressure.