blind_elk

Checked diff oil level?

Doesn't matter that the tyres are the same size. Being on different width rims, they will have slightly different rolling diameters.The rolling diameter for a given tyre (manufacture / width / profile) is based on a particular sized rim. And different manufacturers use different sized rims as the "standard" for the same size tyre. when you move away from the "standard" rim ie widr / narrower), triangulation changes the effective sidewall height, so the "effective" profile changes, and the rolling diameter changes. As has been said too many times - SAME SIZE TYRE ON SAME SIZE RIM ON EVERY CORNER.

It runs RICH when the engine is cold. You shouldn't be giving it stick when the engine is cold.Some people don't deserve a Skyline.

If it's installed correctly, it's actually an oil-air separator. As the oil-vapour laden air passes into the canister, the oil condenses out, leaving just "clean" air to continue on to the induction side.

Back from terrorising Territorians, so should be there this month.

I believe anything to do with camshaft timing is "crankshaft degs"

If you are going to buy the block, then you might as well get the whole engine.Anyway, the RB25DE and RB25DET will have different pistons, because of the different C/R. If the current engine is a RB25, then the head will be a RB25 - there's no way (well, very little way) a RB20 head will work on a RB25 block, due mainly to the massive difference in bore diameter.

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Coast up to the stop, with system in gear (no need to down change) until it requires the clutch being disengaged. There is no wear in the clutch while it is fully engaged. The wear occurs on "take-up" from a standing start, because you need to slip it a bit as it engages and transfers power to the gearbox. And there should be minimal wear in the brakes, because most of the stopping is achieved by friction in the drivetrain.

How do you know it needs to be leaner? The flashing engine light possibly indicates overheating of the catalytic converter- probably caused by lean A/F. What does the O2 sensor say on the dyno?

There was an article in The Age's Good Weekend, about 12 months ago, by Karl Kruszelnicki. Some of what it says: - Engines run best at their design temp. Idling is not the best or quickest way to warm up an engine. GENTLE driving is. - When idling, the fuel is not completely burnt. Unburnt fuel condenses on the cylinder walls, washing the oil off the cylinder walls and also thinning the oil. - Idling drops spark plug temps, leading to dirty plugs, causing poor fuel economy. - Idling prevents the catalytic converter reaching its design temp (400 -800C). - Even in Canada, at -20C, it is recommended no more than 15-30 sec before driving from cold start. So even less is desirable in warm Oz. Canada's Office of Energy Efficiency calculated that 5 minutes less idling each day would save $646 MILLION in fuel costs and and 1.6 million Tonnes greenhouse gases per year, in Canada alone.

Battery will be flat(ish). Get a jump start.

Why don't you just ask the question once?

1 5 3 6 2 4

Ok, swap #6 injector with #5 - see if the problem moves to #5. That will mean the injector is kaput. Otherwise, the driver for #6 is kaput.

You didn't clean around the butterflies, did you?

Or when ATTESSA senses longitudinal (acceleration) or lateral (cornering) G-forces.

The bolt that adjusts the belt tension is on the underside of the P/S pump. It is easiest to get at by removing the IC pipes that run by the pump. The other bolts are obvious.

I don't think the original problem has damaged the diff. The R32 seems to be fairly forgiving in this respect. (But, I'm no expert) The knocking might be something like a failing CV joint. Have you checked all the suspension bushes? When the ATTESSA pump was replaced, did they bleed the system correctly? And the correct fluid level in the reservoir is checked with IGN = ON. On a slightly different tack, how old is the battery? Because Skylines are notoriously sensitive to crappy battery voltages (from crappy old batteries).

Have you recently had the inlet manifold off?

It will be the same as for the GTSt - after all, it's just a RB20. And I think it's a T3 flange, with T4 housings (or the other way round). T28 is the GT-R (?).

I had a similar thing happen in my GTS4. I can't remember exactly what it was caused by. It was either some sort of fault in the TPS, or it was a poor connection on the alternator.The ATTESA also activates because it senses some sort of G-force, either through acceleration or cornering. The sensors are located under the centre armrest / glovebox.

The RB20DET in the GTSt is basically the same as the RB20DET in the GTS4. The difference is the GTS4 version has an appendage hanging off the side of the sump to hold the differential for driving the front wheels. The sumps are not interchangeable between engines. Other than that, they are mechanically the same. The early model RB20DET is the "Red Top". It had variable inlet runners, less power. The later model RB20DET is referred to as a "Silver Top". If you plan on fitting a RB-series engine, go straight to a RB25DET. Newer, more torque.

Don't you have any insurance of your own? In that case, you simply make a claim on your insurer, and they take over the worry.

No, if it's on 0 while the engine is running, then it isn't connected to the engine. Even with a vacuum leak, it should still register something.