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blind_elk

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Everything posted by blind_elk

  1. blind_elk
    Big ends? or big end bearings?
  2. blind_elk

    Need Help

    blind_elk replied to linedup33's topic in Victoria

    That size (31mm ID) is like top or bottom radiator hose size. Is that what you are after?
  3. blind_elk
    Have you [search]ed the forums? Have you actually looked at what's already in the headlamps?
  4. blind_elk
    You can save yourself a lot of hassle by reading the spec sheets of the tyre manufacturer. Usually 'rolling diameter / circumference' is given in the specs.
  5. blind_elk
    You sure? I've run a RB25 one on a RB20 without any problems.Check the wreckers first before forking out for a new one.
  6. blind_elk
    The air regulator (actually it's a cold start valve) is on the underside of the RB25 plenum. The SWITCH part of the TPS needs to have 0 ohms across pins 1 & 2 (or maybe it's 2 & 3, can never remember). If it isn't correct, undo the retaining screws and rotate the switch until it is.
  7. blind_elk
    Have you checked the SWITCH part of the TPS? (you've checked the SENSOR part already)
  8. blind_elk
    Good luck with that. Frankly, I think you'll have more luck finding rocking horse poo!! Contact Noel at [email protected]
  9. blind_elk
    Tyres are made to fit a particular rim size. And for a very good reason - it is the only thing connecting the car to the road. If you fit the wrong sized tyre to the wrong sized rim, you are risking the road-holding capability of the car, and therefore the safety of the car. Fit a tyre designed to fit the rims you have. (And the 45 profile for your fronts is to tall for a 18" rim. 45 profile is ordinarily run on a 17" rim)
  10. blind_elk
    Taken
  11. blind_elk
    Why doesn't anyone think the gauge might be crap?
  12. blind_elk
    There is a half-moon key on the CAS and the camshaft, which forces the CAS to align correctly when replaced. There is also a set of splines on the CAS and camshaft, that will rotate the CAS if the keys are broken / missing. Check you have the half key in the end of the exhaust camshaft. If not, you have to do some visualising to align the CAS side to where the cam side should be.
  13. blind_elk
    Isn't VCT so you get the best of both worlds - good mid-range AND top end? So if you disable VCT, you lose mid-range? Standard spec cams (R33 RB25DET): Inlet: Duration 240 : Centreline 120 : Open TDC : Close 60 ATBC Ex: Duration 240 : Centreline 117 : Open 57 BBDC : Close 3 ATDC Overlap 3 LSA 118.5
  14. blind_elk
    Well then, enlighten us with your wisdom and knowledge.
  15. blind_elk
    Are you sure the globe works?
  16. blind_elk
    If the engine inhaled water, it would STOP - DEAD! I suspect you have a few wet connections. Disconnect all the connector plugs and give them a serious dose of WD40.
  17. blind_elk
    How do you run a AFM when you have 6 trumpets on 6 ITBs? Ans: You can't! Talk to Steve Newing at EFI hardware in Melbourne - www.efihardware.com - about MAP-sensing setups.
  18. blind_elk
    The centre thread is to undo the tension on the bar. Then you can simply undo the nuts on the strut top and remove the bar. It won't upset any suspension settings.
  19. blind_elk
    Been there, done that. Get a half cut so you get the ECU and loom. The RB25DET produces TORQUE - torque to burn! The R32 'box is holding up quite well in mine (but it is a GTS4, not a GTSt), with up to 180kW coming out all 4 wheels.
  20. blind_elk
    There should be a screw plug (like a sump plug) in the bottom of the tank. When you refill the tank, add a bottle of metho to dissolve any residual water into the fuel.
  21. blind_elk
    Take it back to the idiot that wrote on the lens in the first place and get him to fix it!
  22. blind_elk
    The regulator is built into the alternator. If it's suddenly dropping and rising, then I'd suggest the regulator is on its way out.Get a sparkie to check out the alternator.
  23. blind_elk
    The brown one is AAC. I think the purple is an "idle up" for when A/C is switched on.
  24. blind_elk
    That's as good a method as I've found. It's pretty typical of the Skyline - "want to do something, step 1 disassemble car!"
  25. blind_elk
    It's an RB20DET. What car it's fitted to is irrelevant. If the test was done properly, then those figures are not good figures. Next step is a leakdown test to determine where the loss of compression is occurring (valves / rings / something else).
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