blind_elk

Non comprende. What are you talking about?

Are they easier to see in daylight?

From memory, the factory cams have different specs (duration, lobe centre angle). Not all that different, but different - probably as Nissan refined the engine. They should be interchangeable.

Don't a lot of people buy a set of plates and simply hold onto them. They never actually get put onto a car. Plates like 'GTHO'. Then they come up for sale for ridiculous $$$. Ask Vicroads!

Yes, the cars can't possibly be "identical". And the drivers definitely aren't "identical" (driving style). They tried to compensate each driver's weight by loading bags of sugar into the boot. But that changes the whole weight balance of the car. It might have been a bit more believable if each driver had a stint in each car.

I never no anything. But I know some things. Like the difference between "no" and "know".

Regardless. Anyone who treats an engine like you treat yours doesn't deserve to own a car.

According to Nissan, your R31 probably had a "red top" RB20DET in it. If the engine has been changed from "factory", it is a total waste of everyone's time asking for coil packs for a R31. You need to ask for coil packs for a Series I RB25DET. Then again, if the engine is using the coil packs and loom from the "red top" ...

Well, isn't that just pathetic - not a single reply in 17 minutes. What is the world coming to? Why didn't the person who hooked up the computer tell you what / where they were?

It may also depend on the type, grade, quality and age of the oil being used. I just did an oil change to Mobil1 5W-50 SuperSyn. Cold start shows around 6. Cruise, it will sit all day at 4. Might drop a bit at idle (maybe 2). (This is a RB25DET)

Could be a bearing. Could be a worn tie-rod end. Could be a worn steering rack end. Weights are there to prevent rotation wobble. Even a slight imbalance caused by one of the weights going AWOL can cause a significant vibration. Get an expert to check it all out.

Wheels - Maguires make a mag wheel cleaner. Get hold of an old, clean paintbrush to work the stuff into the little nooks and crannies of the rim. Hose off. Paint: Wash "Clay" the dirt off the paint. This will leave the paint quite dull. Polish. Wax. Talk to the Maguires people about it all.

You've answered your own question. Try jump-starting the freekin' thing.

The wheels need to be aligned with the steering wheel straight (not align the wheels, then make the steering wheel match). Did they adjust the castor settings evenly when they did the alignment? Uneven castor will cause the car to "pull" to one side.

Usual sign of a dud FPR. Have you put a fuel pressure gauge on there?Have you replaced the fuel filter? Did you get the injectors cleaned before installing the engine?

The power:weight rule, while good in principle, is a farce in reality. How many of you here have been booked for driving under this rule, but you still have the keys to the "too powerful" car? All that has happened is you have had to part with $135 or so. How does that contribute to road safety? It doesn't; it simply contributes to the state's coffers. You can still learn in one of these, because a fully licenced driver is "in charge" of the car. But tell me, who is "in control" of the car? And while you can learn in one, and do your test in one, YOU CANNOT DRIVE IT HOME!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Because it is a restricted vehicle for P-platers. How freekin' stupid is that? /rant If you back up your argument with sound logic, the teacher cannot (in theory at least) mark you down in any way. After all, this is a democracy, and we are allowed to have opinions different to the rest of the population.

That's the ATTESSA reservoir. And 33s have electric HICAS (?) If you've had a wheel alignment recently, did they align the front with the steering wheel straight, or did they straighten the steering wheel to the fronts wheels?

The flange on the existing pipes has probably warped a bit. You can get special high temperature sealant (like putty) that you can coat the gasket with. That should help create a proper seal at the flange joints.

But it seems it's not until subie presses the button that the short occurs to blow the fuse. Might I suggest that the action of pressing the horn is enough to depress the live contact on the button so that it makes contact with the steering column, causing the short. Make sure the live contact onto the button is fully covered (insulated).

Go direct to Quadrant Suspension in Berwick. Or try Andrew @ Traction Tyres in Rowville, he should be able to get you a set.

Should be ok. Just drive "sensibly". How much fuel was in the tank before you stuck the "good stuff" in? Maybe shove another $20 of 98 in on top of it. But really, drive sensibly, minimise "boost" situations, and all should be ok.

It's only air. Just because it's coming into the cylinder via the injector rather than the throttle body, it's still just air. Just start the engine normally (it might take a bit longer than usual while the system builds full fuel pressure).

Try stuffing some steel wool in the can. It will act as a "seed" for the oil vapour to condense around. After all, the purpose of the can is to remove oil vapour from the air.

Is the can sealed, or does it vent to atmosphere? If it is sealed (which it should be, so it is an oil / air separator), I suggest you plumb it as: Rocker vents -> catch can 'in', then catch can 'out' -> turbo intake

VB- - I said pedal box, not gear box. A broken clutch plate won't cause the pedal to sit permanently on the floor. white32, have a look under the dash at the clutch pedal mounting area - you should be able to see if the box (framework) is broken.