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blind_elk

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Everything posted by blind_elk

  1. blind_elk
    Too right! I have lost count of how many times this point has been made - AWD NISSANS MUST HAVE THE SAME ROLLING DIAMETER ON ALL 4 CORNERS.
  2. blind_elk
    Frankly, I don't see why it should be subsidised by anyone. These "hoons", in general, spend squillions on their cars, yet they are too cheap to spend $100 or so to take their high speed desires to a race track or drag strip.
  3. blind_elk
    What size tyres and rims are you running?
  4. blind_elk
    I had the same drama when I fitted a Wolf to my GTS4. The (factory) ECU passes a throttle signal through to the ATTESSA computer. Advanced Engine Management (makers of Wolf) have a "black box" solution. Maybe Autronic has something similar.
  5. blind_elk
    The TPS is a 2-part component - a throttle position SWITCH and a throttle position SENSOR. The SWITCH part of the TPS needs 0 ohms across pins 1 & 2 (or 2 & 3) at throttle closed to tell the ECU that the throttle is closed. Does the engine tend to hold revs on (up) gear changes? If it does, the the TPS(witch) is likely out of adjustment; the ECU should shut down the injectors when the throttle snaps shut during gear changes.
  6. blind_elk
    You assemble to spring/shock out of the car. Then the whole assembly slots in. You will still need a spring compressor to do the job. They aren't all that expensive.
  7. blind_elk
    Then why doesn't mine, when I have actually cut the tail lamp wire to the inner taillamps, so I have 2 tail and 4 brakes lights?
  8. blind_elk
    You said you put a fuse in when you first got the car home. Why was the fuse out in the first place? And is it still out? Did you bleed the system properly after rebuilding the gearbox? Are you sure the globe for the warning light isn't blown? Anyway, seeing as it appears to be working now, what's the problem?
  9. blind_elk
    What makes you say the 4WD system isn't working? What are the symptoms?
  10. blind_elk
    Don't use fancy, expensive caps. Use the ones that aren't worth pinching. Maybe stick the good ones on when you know you can always be watching the car.
  11. blind_elk
    Non comprende. What are you talking about?
  12. blind_elk
    Are they easier to see in daylight?
  13. blind_elk
    From memory, the factory cams have different specs (duration, lobe centre angle). Not all that different, but different - probably as Nissan refined the engine. They should be interchangeable.
  14. blind_elk
    Don't a lot of people buy a set of plates and simply hold onto them. They never actually get put onto a car. Plates like 'GTHO'. Then they come up for sale for ridiculous $$$. Ask Vicroads!
  15. blind_elk
    Yes, the cars can't possibly be "identical". And the drivers definitely aren't "identical" (driving style). They tried to compensate each driver's weight by loading bags of sugar into the boot. But that changes the whole weight balance of the car. It might have been a bit more believable if each driver had a stint in each car.
  16. blind_elk
    I never no anything. But I know some things. Like the difference between "no" and "know".
  17. blind_elk
    Regardless. Anyone who treats an engine like you treat yours doesn't deserve to own a car.
  18. blind_elk
    According to Nissan, your R31 probably had a "red top" RB20DET in it. If the engine has been changed from "factory", it is a total waste of everyone's time asking for coil packs for a R31. You need to ask for coil packs for a Series I RB25DET. Then again, if the engine is using the coil packs and loom from the "red top" ...
  19. blind_elk
    Well, isn't that just pathetic - not a single reply in 17 minutes. What is the world coming to? Why didn't the person who hooked up the computer tell you what / where they were?
  20. blind_elk
    It may also depend on the type, grade, quality and age of the oil being used. I just did an oil change to Mobil1 5W-50 SuperSyn. Cold start shows around 6. Cruise, it will sit all day at 4. Might drop a bit at idle (maybe 2). (This is a RB25DET)
  21. blind_elk
    Could be a bearing. Could be a worn tie-rod end. Could be a worn steering rack end. Weights are there to prevent rotation wobble. Even a slight imbalance caused by one of the weights going AWOL can cause a significant vibration. Get an expert to check it all out.
  22. blind_elk
    Wheels - Maguires make a mag wheel cleaner. Get hold of an old, clean paintbrush to work the stuff into the little nooks and crannies of the rim. Hose off. Paint: Wash "Clay" the dirt off the paint. This will leave the paint quite dull. Polish. Wax. Talk to the Maguires people about it all.
  23. blind_elk
    You've answered your own question. Try jump-starting the freekin' thing.
  24. blind_elk
    The wheels need to be aligned with the steering wheel straight (not align the wheels, then make the steering wheel match). Did they adjust the castor settings evenly when they did the alignment? Uneven castor will cause the car to "pull" to one side.
  25. blind_elk
    Usual sign of a dud FPR. Have you put a fuel pressure gauge on there?Have you replaced the fuel filter? Did you get the injectors cleaned before installing the engine?
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