blind_elk

4th Q (part of 2nd Q): What tyre pressures?

It's not new. Back in the 60s, NSW police used Mini Cooper Ss, and they also used XY GTs dressed as Futura 500s. A few years ago, I spied a WRX sitting up in a cutting waiting to pounce on unsuspecting speedsters near Lake Nilacootie (near Benalia).

Use a cold chisel to punch a slot on the head, so you can then use a screwdriver to undo the bolt.

To check the shocker, simply "bounce" the corner of the car. The car should stop bouncing within about 1.5 bounces. Have you checked the wheels nuts? Grab the wheel and try and shake it - up / down, side to side. You might need to jack the car to check fully.

A longer rod won't help in a hydraulic system like that. Did you replace the throwout bearing? Did you check the height of the pressure plate compared to the old one? (you might have the wrong carrier)

Yes, hadn't considered that possibility. Was thinking of replacing injectors anyway - the little pintel things were all damaged. I'll have another look in the cooler weather.

Have one, from a Stagea. PM me

Not the diagnosis I was looking for. But it might be the excuse I need to give the cylinders a good hone. The engine was not really run-in correctly, and it burns oil a fair bit. Unlikely, since it's only in 1 cylinder. That was in the original RB20 - fixed it by fitting a new (RB20) engine.

Talk to Bill @ Australian Precision Engine Parts, in Melbourne. He will be able to make you a set of pistons to suit.

I thought 33s (and all other Skylines) steered from the FRONT! They have HICAS, which does a bit of REAR steering. So, technically, they already have All-wheel Steering.

Finally got my new Splitfire coilpacks from Slide tonight. While I was fitting them up, I thought I would check the spark plugs. The car has been running on "not all 6", so I thought it might have been a coil. Last time the engine ran like this, a piece of piston was playing pinball inside #2 chamber, and had punched the gap on the plug to nothing. Anyway, found all plugs were generally nice and clean, 1 or 2 were a little black, but not bad. But #4 had a oil obviously coating the electrodes (these are Iridium plugs). Gave it a bit of a wipe down before re-installing it, because I don't have spares. After all back together, fire the engine and engine runs smoothly. But I'm concerned about the oil. What's your diagnosis?

Why do you want to raise the pressure? All that will do is force the engine to run richer.

Don't they use electronic speedo drives? R32s are full cable / mechanical. So you will need to transfer the drive unit from your original R34 gearbox to the R32 gearbox (of course assuming the R34 unit will fit in the R32 gearbox).

Car is a ??? - R32??

Pretty sure this is the cuplrit. I recall a thread a few weeks ago where it was decided DO NOT CLEAN THE THROTTLE BODIES. Nissan put a special coating at build time, and cleaning removes that coating, allowing sufficient air to leak past and cause high idle.

I think it costs around $30 - $40 per injector. The only problem with running upgraded injectors will be it will run RICH. That may foul the spark plugs, causing the engine to run even worse.

Injectors are ordinarily cleaned and flow tested on a bench rig. There are "mobile mechanics" who can do the job - check Yellow Pages under "Fuel Injection Services" (I think). If you upgrade the injectors, you will need a re-programmable ECU and a dyno tune.

Just hope they did a better job on this than they did for the R32 engine manual.

Offset?

I'm surprised this info isn't in a sticky reference. It's a 5-stage tightening: 1. 3 kg-m 2. 11 kg-m 3. 0 kg-m (ie loosen right off) 4. 3 kg-m 5. 10.5 - 11.5 kg-m

An O2 sensor is an O2 sensor. They all work the same way (basically). It shouldn't matter if it's for a RB20 or a RB25. As for your starting problems, check the cold start air valve, under the inlet plenum. The A/C problem was covered about 2 weeks ago. Have a search.

When one wheel hits water, and the other is still on "dry" road, the wheel in water has an increased drag, causing that side of the car to slow down, and the car turns in that direction. Perfectly normal behaviour. Simple solution - avoid the puddle. (This should have been taught - maybe not demonstrated, but at least taught - at "learner" stage.)

It will work better if you "reverse flush" the radiator. By adding water in the top, all you are doing is forcing the crap further into the cores.Take it out, upend it and push water in the what is normally the bottom of the radiator.

Try hot-wiring from the battery directly to the trigger terminal on the starter - the standard spade terminal. Make sure the handbrake is on and transmission in neutral

Nothing really wrong with KYBs. Maybe not a Bilstein, but far better than most other shocks on the market.