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blind_elk

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Everything posted by blind_elk

  1. If previous owners haven't used coolant treatment (and the Japs are notorious for not doing so), the fins rot away. Under load, the rotted fins cannot circulate the coolant; the engine produces more heat that cannot be removed because the coolant isn't being circulated. At idle, the remaining bits of fin can circulated the water, so it tends to cool a bit.
  2. Can I suggest your water pump is on its last legs.
  3. First, make sure it STOPS. Then make sure it HANDLES. Then make it go fast.
  4. Check / clean the contacts in the main switch. They are notorious for this sort of problem
  5. I've noticed HD clutches require a slight change to driving style to get the car moving. I only fitted a HD single plate clutch. Before that, I'm pretty sure I could ease the clutch - no throttle - and the car would start moving. I now find I need to give some revs or the engine will stall.So, try giving a few more revs before you start to engage the clutch, see if that solves the "shudder".
  6. Probably the springs getting old and losing a bit of "spring". Try swapping the shock / spring assemblies L->R, R->L
  7. 40 thou is not a "hone". It is a major re-bore. You should really only consider that option if one or more of your bores has some serious damage.
  8. Firstly, a gauge is only as good as the manufacturer. It's not beyond the realms of possibility for 2 different gauges to give 2 different readings of the same thing. The Nissan factory gauges are notoriously inaccurate, though. And a boost controller cannot lower the boost below standard. It can only raise boost above standard.
  9. Do a diagnostic on the HICAS system.
  10. You killed a battery TWICE IN ONE WEEK, and the problems you are having are the fault of your gf driving your car? Your battery will not be a happy camper. Get a new battery.
  11. It depends on how the cooling vents are constructed as to how the slots appear. Yours are how mine appear (hub to outer edge), but mine are DBAs. I have seen others where the slots face the other direction (outer edge to hub). The rotors should have been labeled LEFT and RIGHT.
  12. Does the car have an alarm? How long had the car been sitting around (while you were on "no licence")? It could be the alarm has died, and is intermittently activating the immobiliser function.
  13. I think there is a solution. You need to run RICH for a while, and somehow it builds up a coating of carbon around the throttle butterflies.
  14. You didn't clean out the throttle bodies, did you?
  15. You might have an air leak at one of the joins in the pipe. Check all the bolts for tightness.
  16. I think that one is actually a "cold start air" valve. Why do you want / need to remove it? I don't think they are at all serviceable.
  17. If you got water in the intake, you would know all about it when the engine suddenly "hydrauliced" and stopped dead in its tracks.
  18. It won't be a cork head-gasket. First spark you fire, the gasket will burn with the fuel!
  19. If you want to run remote coils, you are better off with coils from a Commodore. You will need three of them, as they are a waste spark design.
  20. Ok, I have a 32, but it has a bracket for the radio / CD (I'm only guessing it's "factory"). Have you actually cheked your car to see if the factory mount bracket will work?
  21. What grade oil are you running in the dampers? If you run a lighter oil, then the needles will rise further, allowing more fuel to be delivered for a given air flow.
  22. Isn't a PFC programmable? In that case, you tell the PFC 15BTDC at idle, then adjust the timing offset in the PFC until the timing light says 15 BTDC.
  23. I don't know about that. I'm running a RB25DET in a 32 GTS4, through the original gearbox, and the 'box is holding up fine.
  24. I already had a brace before I did my conversion. It's not a problem - still fits.
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