blind_elk

It will be a RB25 clutch. They should pretty much be all the same size. You probably don't need a GT-R clutch, just a GTSt / RB25DET clutch set.

The constant 12V is to maintain the "memory" of the A/C, stereo, etc. If you drained the battery, it will not last much longer. Get a new one. And put the wiring back the way it was.

Engine is at TDC compression #1 when the timing mark on the crank pulley aligns with the mark on the timing case, AND the marks on the cam wheels align with the marks on the cam cover backing plate. Make sure it is set up correctly. The engine will only start with the CAS in one particular position, it will not start if the CAS is even 1 tooth out. You need to rotate the CAS shaft probably 30 degrees to get the teeth to align 1 tooth from the previous position.

Don't know how you could come to the conclusion that a clutch (in any condition) could possibly affect ignition timing. If you have a programmable ECU, then you have to calibrate it (tell it where TDC is) before setting base ignition timing. You also need to be aware that some timing lights can give incorrect indications.

Pretty certain the rears are DB1220

The teeth that mesh between the CAS and the cam are quite coarse. You have to turn the CAS shaft a fair bit to get it to align in the next set of teeth. As I said previously, use a bit of visualisation to work out where the key in the CAS has to be to align with the "key" in the exhaust cam.

In the half dozen or so RWCs I have had on my R32 - and the lights work in exactly the same fashion - I have NEVER had a query raised about them.

The globes are a twin filament globe. One filament is the brake light, the other is the tail light. Make sure BOTH filaments are working. Then check the BRAKE fuse. Then check the switch at the brake pedal.

Basically, yes. Although it must be close.However you should be able to see the surface where the half-moon key broke from in the end of the exhaust shaft. Just use visualisation to determine which is the correct alignment.

PM me when you are ready. The 40% is pretty nominal - very hard to tell how much has worn away if it's worn away. Oh, and they are 235/45x17

Have a look up in my gallery area. If you like them, you can have them for $500. They are 17 x 7.5, with 40% B/S Potenza G IIIs.

From memory, you need to disconnect the lower hub balljoint, and disconnect the swaybar link pin. This will enable you to swing the hub assembly out far enough to insert an assembled drive shaft. As with anything to do with working on a Skyline, "if something is in the way, remove it".

So, it's not stuck in the diff, it's stuck in the hub? Then take the little cap off the outside, remove the split pin, undo the nut, pop out the shaft. You only needed to punch the shaft out of the diff, then the engine comes out. That way the CV joint stays in 1 piece. I didn't give a nut-by-nut description - some things become obvious.

Bozz asked the same question, probably only a week ago. You need to punch the shaft out, using a "screwdriver" into the machined lip of the CV housing. Why did you not ask BEFORE you lifted the engine out?

I fitted a RB25DET from a Stagea into by 32 GTS4. I simply went to my local Vicroads (E. Burwood) and filled out the "I've changed the engine number" form, They checked the engine number on the block matched the engine number on the form. No problems.

No, drift it out (with a hammer on the head of the screwdriver thingy). That way, you only need 1 screwdriver thingy. Once it's "popped", it's plain sailing (after you disconnect EVERY OTHER suspension component!).

Just cut the plug off and fit standard spade connectors.

There is a lip on the inner CV - you need get one of those big bent-end screwdriver-looking things and drift the shaft out of the diff (the shaft uses a spring circlip in groove to hold it in).

PM sent

They aren't repairable. So they probably aren't "bastardisable" either.

Does the gearbox need to come out too? If not, disconnect the gearbox from the engine, and leave the gearbox in the car. Otherwise, you will need a dummy shaft (basically just the spline of a tailshaft) to stick into the gearbox output. Or, drain the gearbox first.

It has more than likely popped an intercooler hose connection.

What ^^^ said.

It is never "for no reason". Sounds like the fuel pump might be on its last legs - do you have a fuel pressure gauge hooked up?

Yes, WHEN it is surging might help diagnose WHY it is surging.