blind_elk

I would expect the location of the extra groove to depend on the spring rate and overall dimension of the Eibach compared with other (Kings) spring. I would expect Whiteline themselves could set up the new groove for you (or at least point you at someone who could).

Disregard the original - I wasn't paying attention to what I was reading.

Probably needs a bit of WD40 sprayed around the ratchet teeth (near the pivot), and maybe up the inside of the handle (from the ratchet end).

What about ABS?

Wouldn't you have to trust a place that supposedly lives and breaths diffs? First q - do you have oil in the diff? You will know what is wrong when you strip the diff down to replace the bearings &/or CW&P. Or just go and get a changeover / SH unit.

Not the bloody TSC - the TPS (Throttle Position Switch)! The rears will now be rotating faster than the fronts (smaller rolling circumference) so the ATTESSA will think you have wheel slip. Try swapping front - back.

When was the last time you changed the filter? I've never had a problem with running injector cleaner. I'd put money on the ignitor module - they have a habit of misbehaving when the get old and too hot.

Had given up on those, thought you'd forgotten Stock as, had about 285k on it. Still started first time, every time (unlike the prissy R32)

I have one that came off a Stagea RB25DET. PM if you are interested.

Clean the fuel tank. There might be something in there that's blocking the pickup.My R30 is just running a stock (black) Bosch ignition coil (no ballast resistor) - runs fine. (If you want a going L24E engine, call round and take it away.)

The flywheel bolts you want are RB30 ones. The bell housing are "any old bolt", but you might as well get the Nissan ones while you are there.

Think about it. You've just pushed a caliper piston back into a cylinder containing brake fluid. The cylinder is now smaller - some of its volume is now filled with piston. The brake fluid - like all fluids - is incompressible. Where is the fluid going to go?Bleed the excess fluid out through a bleed nipple at one of the calipers.

Why don't they teach this stuff when you are learning to drive?Turning the engine over, the ECU is injecting fuel into the cylinder. The fuel is not burning because the engine is not firing. The mixture inside the cylinder is getting richer and richer - more and more fuel, same amount of air. Give it FULL THROTTLE so it gets LOTS OF AIR, and it stands a chance of starting.

If you managed to get car-b-cleaner on the O2 sensor while doing a AAC valve clean, then you should give up any pretentions to becoming a mechanic!ashr32, did you reset the AAC after you reassembled it? I suspect you have a small leak somewhere - split hose or similar. It will be OK to drive it in it's "slightly lean" condition, just avoid any serious boost until you work out the answer.

Get a boost off another battery, ie jump start. And give it FULL THROTTLE - you have probably flooded the engine by now.

Well, I've worked out that the new mirrors work by reversing the polarity to make them move up/down and in/out. I'm guessing that the R32 has a separate wire for each movement (up / down / in / out). That means fitting changeover relays inside the door to achieve the switching necessary to make them work. Or I could try and send them back. Or I could write off $150.

One of the better nail-biter finishes. Congrats to Ford 1 2 3.

The mixture will go super-lean, so there's a fair bet it could stall. The hose from the passenger-side rocker cover connects with the inlet pipe between the AFM and the turbo compressor.

Just bought a pair of "Ganador-style" electric mirrors off eBay. When I went to fit them, I found that my car (32 GTS4) has 5 wires going to the mirror, and these new mirrors only have 3 wires. Anyone know which 3 wires I need? Or do I really need all 5? TIA

Yes, it will be normal - it opens the inlet to unmetered air through the rocker covers. (How can you check the oil with the engine running?)

What happens if you give it some throttle while cranking, then keep some throttle after it starts? Generally, if you keep cranking and it won't start, you will flood the engine. In that case, you need to give it FULL THROTTLE while cranking, and maintain some throttle once it fires.

Silastic - gasket in a tube.

I agree this is tragic. I'm not concerned if the driver was a P-plater, or if there was excessive speed involved, or if the occupants of the car were or were not wearing seat belts. The point of raising this particular incident is that the government relies heavily on cameras, even changing the name from "speed" to "road safety" to try and justify them. But a "safety camera" would not have detected the non-wearing of seat belts. And a camera, while it might have taken a photo of the behaviour prior to the incident, would not have prevented the outcome. The only thing that stood a chance of preventing this tragic outcome was a visible police presence "on the ground". It's time the government and all the so-called "road safety experts" realised this.

Strange as it may seem, check the connections on the TPS (I think that was what caused my GTS4 to do exactly what yours is doing).

The longer James snubs his adoring minions, the more unlikely it becomes he will grace us with anything better than a Lada (he could always try for a Skoda)