blind_elk

I've noticed that, despite clicking the "Add the 'Edit by' line in this post?", it never does.

It won't change the capacity, because the engine still has the same stroke (controlled by the crank, not the rod!) and bore. A shorter rod will pull the piston down the bore, so it sits too low at TDC. If you are going to use a shorter rod, then you will need a piston with a lower pin height to push the piston back up to the top of the bore at TDC. You could also investigate modified pistons (less crown), and possibly enlarging the combustion chamber a tad.

http://www.theage.com.au/news/national/tee...1091145504.html

Maroondah Hwy, Coldstream, yesterday afternoon. EDIT: my bad - it was Tuesday night the crash actually ocurred.

2 girls die in a car driven by a 20 year old. There's never a "road safety" camera around when you need one, is there Mr Brumby

I think you will find they are "common earth" blocks. There will be one wire coming out that is connected to the chassis.

Have you checked the float levels in the carbs? (who was the "expert" carbie builder?) I'm guessing you are still using the mechanical fuel pump. Try adding an electric fuel pump as a "helper" (should be mounted near the tank so it pushes fuel).

If you disconnect the vacuum line from the stock FPR, the engine will not see the additional pressure required under boost conditions. Hello super-lean A/F, bye-bye detonated engine.

Get some good fronts first (since the front is where the majority of the braking occurs). Maybe also adjust your driving style so you don't keep jumping on the brakes at every opportunity, which will extend the life of the brakes.

There's your problem. Don't launch it so hard. This is the "no-cost" option.

Have you checked the advance on the dizzy? And that BOTH retaining springs for the counterweights are still there.

Doctor, it hurts when I do this... Stop bouncing it off the limiter!!!!!!!!!!!

Try Pirtek or Enzed. Or one of the turbo-modifier places.

Probably just coincidence that the gear selection is awkward when A/C on. The ECU will raise the idle revs when it gets the signal that the A/C is operating. The hunting for idle is probably the AAC valve. Try holding the "cold" button until the unit displays "FC" (full cold) - does it still blow hot?

RB26 is a "stroked" RB25 - both engines have same bore. (Probably RB25 is actually a de-stroked RB26) RB26 gudgeon pin is higher up the piston - don't know if this indicates that the rods are the same length. Why not just use standard RB25 rods?

Are they the correct impedance? GT-Rs run low-impedance injectors (hence the dropping resistor), GTSts run high-impedance injectors.

Looks like it

Have you checked ignition timing, both "base" and in the maps in the ECU?

Seems as though it is probably battery related. If I let the engine run for a few minutes, then stop and immediately re-start the engine, I don't have the problem.

If it's anything like the 32, you will dump the contents of the gearbox on the ground as soon as the sender unit comes out of its housing.

Don't remember - it was 3 years ago, and I'm suffering advanced dementia :laughing-smiley-014: It doesn't have to fit - the weld will bridge the gap.

On a RB25DET, the hose joining the 2 rocker covers points forwards. Also, the hose to the PCV valve is smaller, and comes out the side of the driver's side rocker cover. On a RB20DET, the hose joining the 2 rocker covers points backwards. And the hose to the PCV valve is larger, and comes off the top of the driver's side rocker cover. And, yes, the engine number should have the engine designation (RB20, RB25) as the first characters.

Turbo or N/A?

Had the same problem converting an auto Stagea engine for a manual box in my 32. The usual method is to fill the hole with grease, then punch a gearbox input shaft into the hole. However, I ended up resorting to a wheel stud tack-welded onto the bearing, then use a drift hammer to pull it out.

There might be a "flat" (wear) spot in the TPS that sends the "wrong" signal to the ECU.