blind_elk

You need to stand on your head in the driver's footwell. It is a pushrod, just like the one for the clutch. It will help having a torch to see what you are doing. The difficult bit is the locknut on the rod. As I suggested in your other thread, if there is no freeplay in the rod, then I'd be putting some serious money on it as the cause.

The pushrod is further up, above the switch. Have fun adjusting it!

There are actually 2 connections - a SENSOR, and a SWITCH The sensor has continuous variable resistance between pin 2 (middle pin) and Pins 1 & 3. The switch is On-Off between Pins 2 & 3 (it tells the ECU that throttle is shut). SENSOR - Pin 1 connects to ECU Pin 48. Pin 2 connects to ECU Pin 38. Pin 3 connects to ECU Pin 30 (and to A/T control unit) SWITCH - Pin 1 connects to ECU Pin 54. Pin 2 connects to ECU Pin 57. Pin 3 goes to A/T control unit.

KYB make a replacement unit - P/N 341222. But it seems its not available in the US catalogue. (http://www.kyb.com/catalog/2007_passenger_car.pdf) Try a dealer anyway. Also try Bilstein dealers.

Yes, but will you also have a spongy pedal? There are 2 major differences - the pads and the driving style. You need to eliminate 1.Alternatively use the "race" pads on the street - is the pedal still spongy? DOH! thanks

Valve is probably embedded in the hose - take the whole hose off to test. Have you tried running the "street" pads, just to confirm it really is the pads, and not the fact that you are "racing"?

Not really pedal height (my bad). You need to adjust the pushrod from the pedal into the back of the master cylinder. It should just have free-play.

Never been "pinged" in scrutineering with the extinguisher in front of the passenger seat. As I said, it won't mount in front of the driver's seat because of the way the Bride adjustment works.

Some serious wiring "debugging" is in order. You have possibly connected the reverse switch wires into the original neutral / inhibiter switch circuit.The brake problem is probably the result of poor adjustment of the brake pedal ride height. The pedal is maintaining some pressure in the system, and the brakes are not releasing properly.

Sounds like a "stopper" to prevent the firewall flexing forward under heavy braking pressure. Pic would be useful to confirm or deny my guess.

Yes, probably is the ABS, not HICAS error. So, possibly a bad earth or something similar? Might be a bad battery - been having some trouble starting recently. High charge rate might indicate a problem to the ATTESSA ECU. Who knows what Nissan built into these things.

I'm starting to get the ATTESSA / HICAS warning lights combination on (cold) startup. Generally, if I stop then re-start the engine, the error goes away. ATTESSA reservoir level is OK. I checked the ATTESSA ECU (that's the one on the passenger side?) for an error code - all I get is 1 flash every 3 seconds. What does that mean?

I've mounted mine on the passenger side, only because the Bride seat mount doesn't permit it on the driver's side. Strip of flat Aluminium mounted between the seat bolts.

Just because they work in a test rig doesn't mean they work in an engine. I once had a set that occasionally shut down at idle (low duty cycle). But if I kept the revs up, the engine continued to run. When I took them back to the place I got them, I was told they worked fine (test rig, HIGH duty cycle). Pull the fuel rail and stick each injector in a jar (or something to catch fuel) - still connected to the loom! Now crank. Any fuel coming out? Can you hear the injectors pulsing (use the old screwdriver-as-a-stethoscope trick)? Have you tried boosting your battery from another battery / booster pack, ie jump starting your engine?

There are 2 relays down behind the ECU - 1 is the ECCS relay, the other is Ign Coils. Both relays are probably working, since you have spark happening. The ECCS actually supplies power to the coil relay. When IGN is applied, the injectors should have direct 12V (ECU switches them to earth). Check for continuity in the loom between each injector plug and its corresponding pin at the ECU - 1 - 1, 2 - 12, 3 - 3, 4 - 13, 5 - 2, 6 - 11 How did you test the injectors?

50 psi fuel sounds too much. Should be around 40. If you have spark, then the ECU is working. Have you tested the injectors in a tester, or still connected to the loom? And you have compression?

Have you got power to the switch? The retaining screw is the earth for the switch. If the screw isn't there, the switch won't earth.

I've done 2 of the 3 run by NDSOC, and I'm working on one for Oct/08.If you want a couple of ideas, you MUST do Longford across to Bothwell via Poatina. The highway up to Swansea, IIRC. And Elephants Pass up to St Marys, and down the other side.

Around $350 for a set (all 4 wheels).

Is the wastegate working properly?

You've tugged on EVERY join? (no point just looking at them!) Because it sounds awfully like one of the joins is suss.

Is all the intercooler plumbing connected properly?

Stupid Q - is the battery in right-way-round?

Ah, you didn't tell us that before.The standard ECU passes a signal from the TPS through to the ATTESSA ECU. If your Haltec doesn't simulate that, the AWD goes into "error" mode.

Have you checked the fusible links - hang directly off the +ve battery terminal ?