blind_elk

To end result of what Warpspeed said, running without VCT operating, I think you will find that the engine will be a bit of a dog in the mid-range.

Do you know what you are talking about? He is installing a new Fuel Pressure Regulator, not a PFsomething ECU. The ECU CANNOT control the fuel pressure behind the injector; that is controlled by a mechanical device, the FPR.Unless the pressure being set is significantly different from standard, it would not be absolutely necessary for a re-tune.

That's NOT the knock sensor, from what I can see (pic is all "furry"). Looks more like the VCT solenoid. You need to remove the "U" pin (closest to the actual solenoid) and the plug will "fall off".

There's 2 of them. Both reside on the pipe where the top radiator hose joins the engine. The single pin one is for the temp gauge, the dual pin one is fior the ECU.

Yes, that one. ATF will serve the purpose.

It should toe out as you lower the suspension.

Well, it seems there is still confusion about the new regulations, this time from Vicroads themselves. I was at the East Burwood office, and overheard a young guy - who has a P-licence issued before July 1, 2007 - trying to get a definitive answer before he picks up his R34 GTt tomorrow. According to the Vicroads officer, the new regulations mean that P-platers cannot drive a turbocharged (among others) vehicle on P-plates after July 1 2007. However, if you check the Arive Alive website, it clearly states that if you obtain your P-licence after July 1, 2007, then you can't drive a "restricted vehicle"; if you already have a P-licence, issued before July 1, 2007, then you can drive a vehicle that is restricted after July 1, but is not restricted by the P/W rule. No wonder road safety in this place in such a stuff-up.

Can't tell what the problem is with "2". Wouldn't have thought an oli filter relocate / oil cooler ("1") would be any sort of problem. The A-M steel hoses are probably not ADR-approved. Replace them with Maltech braided hoses (ADR-approved).

What more can I say than BUGGA And how would anyone know you had another account linked via phone to the main ATM account? Sounds like an insider to me. If you can't get an answer from the little sub-continental person at the call centre, the simple question is: "Can I speak to someone who can tell me why it happened?"

Probably simplest to tap into the wire at the ECU. Do a search for the pinouts. But its a GT-R - there are 2 O2 sensors, so theoretically you should have 2 A/F meters.

RH corner of the boot, behind the panel, is a reservoir for the ATTESSA AWD system. Check the level is OK (need IGN = ON to check correctly).

Try rigging up a relay that supplies power directly from the battery to the solenoid. Use the standard starter wire to switch the relay.

The solenoid usually piggy-backs the locking mechanisms. Did you check that it was working properly before you put it all back together? And did you try using the key to unlock it?

So how come his windscreen was smashed, and blood spattered over the car? When are they going to f*****g-well learn? Just because they got a licence doesn't meant they know how to drive.They DO NOT have the skill. I hope he gets banned for life.

You don't need a solenoid on the driver's side - the key is doing the work! Most alarms will come with the solenoid for the driver's side. It piggy-backs on the connecting rod.

The best Turbo Timer is the one between your ears.

Look harder. Although, without having seen every RB20 engine that Nissan produced, I couldn't say for sure that the "RB" bit should be there.

It's usually the switch itself (for the 11ty-billionth time)- needs a clean out.

I understood the "coolant" was used more for its anti-corrosion properties. Widening the useable temperature range of the cooling liquid is simply a bonus. As such, it needs to be mixed at the recommended ratio.

I had a car brought down from Brisbane by Toll Autotrans - cost $427 Incl insurance. (FYI, Mel - Bri would have been over $800).

Kangan Batman TAFE do a lot of automotive courses - maybe they have contacts into the industry for job placements, work experience, etc.

Actually, all the Oz-delivered R32 GT-Rs had the windscreen aerial replaced by a roof-mounted aerial.

It is highly advisable to have same size wheels and same size tyres (lost count of how many times this has been said!). It is possible to have different size tyres, but they will likely be different brand / style between front and back. There's a lot of stuffing around working out and matching rolling diameters. Same size tyres on different width rims might have different rolling diameters. The advantage of all rims same size is you can swap front <-> back to even out tyre wear. The ATTESSA clutch is in the transfer case, on the side of the gearbox.

Not the spring rate (not likely). I would suspect the shocks are "dead". A nice set of Bilsteins, or even KYBs, would solve your ride problems.

A/C on or off?