blind_elk

Can't anybody read a street directory any more? I got a Garmin eTrex GPS locator unit (not a navigator). Fun toy.

10am this Sunday (29/7) Be there ... or be somewhere else.

If the road cambers to the left, then the car will steer left. Have you ever rotated the wheels so that the wheels swap sides, ie left -> right, right -> left ? Try swapping the fronts to the back (unless of course you have different width wheels front and rear) to see if the problem persists. Are the wheels sitting on the hub centring rings? Or sitting on the wheel studs?

So, now no-ones coming. I'll just cancel the booking then?

It is unlikely that you will ever get the same exhaust note. One of the beauties of a turbo is that it utilises some of the energy in the exhaust gasses to spin the turbine. If there isn't as much energy present by the time it comes out the muffler, then it can't emit as much sound. As for yopur idle, is it on an aftermarket ECU or factory? As it's a RB25DE -> RB25DET conversion, I doubt a factory ECU could work quite right because it was designed to operate that exact configuration of engine. But, have a look at the AAC valve - it might be slightly gummed up and sticking, so give it a clean. PS - it's THAN, not THEN - quieter THAN before

understeer is "idiot" steer. The reason manufacturers build in understeer is that the solution/reaction to understeer is to stomp the brakes - the natural reaction of the less-than-average Joe Citizen driver.

It's 0.1mm difference! - you have to have some clearance between the piston and bore. The spec for bore is nominal - there will be some manufacturing variations.

According to my workshop manual, the pinouts are the same.

Check the tightness of the fanbelt. Check the output of the alternator at various rpm (there should be numerous threads describing the procedure, but I just tried a search, and the search engine leaves A LOT to be desired - didn't find one of the ones I thought I should). Basically, measure volts across the +ve and -ve terminals of the battery. At idle, should be around 14V. As you increase revs, should remain 14V. If volts increase, then the regulator is bung. And the resultant overcharging will eventually kill the battery. If the regulator is ok, try turning on the headlights - a healthy alternator should be able to maintain 14V at idle. Also, you should consider the age of the battery - they don't last forever.

Sam, we're on a week before that! Everyone. It's only a week away. Please confirm if you intend to join in or not. Tx

The coils have power to them, then the ignitor is switched by the ECU so the spark is fired. And as far as I can tell (from the workshop manual), the ECU pinouts are the same in the 20 and 25 ECUs. (why aren't you using a 25 ECU?) Silly question - you have compression in 2 & 5?

What happens if you re-locate coils 2 and 5 (say swap 2 & 3 and 5 & 6)? It sounds like a faulty ignitor - try and borrow a known working one. Other possibility is someone has slipped a pair of S2 coils in there. Do you still have the original coils from your 25DE? Try using them.

If the rule is "ground clearance", then that is what they should be measuring. I'm sure GMH doesn't send cars off their production line and not in compliance with the "ground clearance" ruling. If a new car doesn't comply, then it is probable that the methodology of the test is invalid. You could jack the car up a bit by using a plate between the strut top and the chassis. Only needs to be 10mm thick. Shouldn't be overly hard (and therefore overly expensive) to make.

When assembling an engine, everything is done with the crank, and hence the harmonic balancer, at TDC. The only measurements that should be BTDC are ignition timing, which requires the engine to be running.

Tyre / wheel size will have absolutely no effect on the measurement. The centre of rim is the same as centre of axle, and the axle is sitting on the suspension. I'm sure the car can be lowered to around 345 (it will be mentioned in dozens of search results). The measurement might be indicative of ground clearance, but only a measurement of ground clearance is definitive.

Does it run a coil igniter module? If so, they are prone to breaking down when they get too hot - would explain the symptoms only occur after the engine starts to get hot, and running 4-5 cylinders.

If you plan to simply repair and sell, then put the RB20DET in it. Check out the RB25 for yourself (check the engine number to be sure it IS a 25).

Holloway Panels, in Bayswater. Not necessarily cheap, but Mike did a good job on my rear wing and my new front bar. And if you know the ex-Nispares blue R32 GT-R, that's his work too.

I've been behind a stock 32 GT-R and a modded 33 GT-R (PFC), and they both exude a lovely black cloud when "nailed".Stop running to red-line in second, and you might at least reduce the problem!

Bleed valves work by bleeding off some of the pressure that would otherwise be seen by the actuator. As a result, you need to produce more boost so that the actuator "sees" the boost you want. The wastegate is opened by excess boost. It has an internal spring that sets the opening pressure. So you can never get less boost than the setting of the wastegate spring. If you only want 7psi, then remove the bleed valve (put it back to standard). DO NOT EVER EVER EVER remove the hose from the wastegate. Unless of course you enjoy patching the holes the pistons will make as they fly skywards through your bonnet.

If the gauge says EMPTY, then fill up. Why do you need a warning light as well? Anyway, the gauge is not all that accurate, particularly near empty.

Can you get it to the meeting tomorrow night? Otherwise, bring it round to my place tonight (PM for details).

I've got a set of 17s, with near-new B/S G3s.

Are you after a set for the 30?

Replace them! That would be as distinct from the front tail lights? With water getting inside? Nail polish. 200 for a wheel alignment is a rip off. Shouldn't cost more than about $70. If you have Japanese suspension, ditch it. If you have factory / original suspension, replace it. In both cases, refer the group buy on suspension.