blind_elk

Valid until July 28. I'm unlikely to use it, as I have a Citibank / BP credit card. See me at the meeting Tuesday.

I think it's AU II onwards have the right stud pattern and offset. Failing that, 200SX, Camry, Magna all have the right setup.

You got the garlic butter in yours, then? I might give them another chance (although I got a free dessert last time).

How many bloody times do we have to answer this question?

You might have flooded the engine. Try starting while holding the accelerator pedal to the floor (don't release it until you are ABSOLUTELY sure the engine has started).

Pretty certain the engine will still start and run with a faulty AFM. What exactly do you mean by "car won't start"? What happens when you try to start the engine?

How much oil is in the sump? How old is the oil? What grade is the oil?

At IGN ON - 3 kg/cm2 At idle - 2.5 kg/cm2 At idle (vac hose removed) - 3 kg/cm2

I have one from a Stagea - is it likely the same?

The A/C fan is a thermo variety, triggered in overheat situations. The sensor is in the bottom tank of the radiator.

The gauge doesn't read in psi. So 7 is not 7psi (I think it is 700 mm Hg, which is about 13 psi).

Disconnect the shock assembly from the hub assembly, at the lower mount. Disconnect the castor rod from the LCA. I don't recall if the ball joint can be removed from the LCA - if it can, do it, and connect it to the hub assembly, then the hub assembly should slip onto the LCA. Otherwise, the two above measures should enable you to lift the hub assembly high enough, and lower the LCA low enough, to slip the hub assembly onto the ball joint.

I believe you are correct there.I believe the solution is to run RICH for a while to rebuild the carbon deposits in the throttles.

Does it seem to be a "reach" to use the indicators?

There are numerous threads relating to removing and refitting the CAS, and problems that might arise, not specifically for when you are painting the cam cover, but covering any number of different reasons for removing the CAS. DO A FN SEARCH!

ABS is for idiots who don't know any better. I've activated the ABS on my 32, I think, twice in the time I've owned it (over 7 years!), and one of those was on the racetrack 2 weeks after I got it. But then, I learned threshhold braking (at a Murcott course) many years ago, and I know how to "read" the traffic conditions, so I don't get into situations where I need to "stomp on the brake pedal".Don't think of it as punishment, embrace it as a learning experience, particulary since I doubt you ever actually learned how to "drive" (you learned how to get a licence). I agree with Ash - it should be mandatory to do one of these courses to get off your Ps.

I think they are both 260s. 240s don't have the little side indicator at the front, IIRC.

Why not??? Gapped to "what?". Normally 1.1mm . Did you check them all? All the more reason to put a gauge on it - how else do you work out what it's doing?

How do you know if it's not connected. You might be hitting rev-limit. An engine will (generally) ALWAYS rev to red line with no load. (I once had an extremely clogged fuel filter that prevented the car going anywhere, but I could free-rev the engine until the cows came home!).The consensus from numerous threads is that this is a misfire that will be cured by dropping the spark-plug gap down to around 0.8mm . All EFI engines run a fuel pressure reg, so unless this is your first EFI car ... . Have you tried fitting a fuel pressure gauge to determine what's going on.

The CAS locates on a half-moon key. Sometimes, the half in the end of the camshaft breaks off, which means the CAS can be installed in the wrong orientation.

Just studying the photos again. It looks like the link pin on the sway bar might be interfering with the positioning of the hub. Try tucking it back down away from the hub. Also, is the car jacked up on both sides? Jacking up one side only loads the sway bar and can create difficulties getting stuff to line up properly.

There's no "strut".Disconnect everything - hub, sway bar, castor rod - from the control arm. The arm should be a tight fit into the x-member, and may need a spot of "persuasion" (if you get my drift). The hub will slop around because it's only held by the upper control arm. Once you have the arm attached and bolted to the x-member, the hub can be swung into position and connected to the ball joint. Now you can start thinking about connecting the castor rod and sway bar. The castor rod forms the third side of the triangle to keep the wheel in position, so you may need to lever the hub assembly into position so the castor rod can be connected to the control arm. Connect the castor rod to the chassis first. Then move the control arm / hub to meet the castor rod.

The Stagea diff I bought also came with Allen bolts. So could be an AWD thing (mine is GTS4).

Make sure they are ADR approved (Maltech's definitely are).

My tailshaft-to-diff used Allen bolts.