blind_elk

Unless you have a GTS4, with all the AWD gear, then a GTS4 manual box is a waste of a good AWD box. I'm pretty sure that nearly every previous question about this has resolved that the floor pans are different, and the RWD floorpan can't accept a AWD gearbox. And chopping the transfer case off the AWD box is, as I said, a waste of a perfectly good AWD box.

It probably just needs a "kit" putting through the master cylinder.

#4 is becoming a bit sad. Add a LITTLE BIT of engine oil into #4 cylinder and re-test. No change in compression suggests a valve problem, increase in compression suggests rings are going.

Put in about 4.5l. Start engine until the gauge registers pressure (5 - 10 secs), then switch off. Let stand for a few minutes to allow the oil to drain back to the sump. Now check dipstick, add oil as necessary.

Cam cover to top of shroud is 87 mm. Fan blade clearance to radiator is about 47 - 48 mm.

Doubt it. ATF is basically a hydraulic fluid, gearbox needs a lubricant.

Do you have an oil/air separator (catch can). Oil vapours could be "infecting" your intake air. And that will severely reduce the effective octane of the whole air / fuel combo. Another possibility is a worn piston or 2 slopping around in the bore, "simulating" knock. Have you done compression and leak down tests on the engine.

Maybe check the plug (that doesn't connect to the Mines speedo) for continuity back to pin 53 at the ECU (pin 53 is the speed signal wire).

RBs run a gauge, so the pressure sender is a variable resistor (the pressure sender earths the gauge). If you aren't running a gauge, but only a "OH SH*T!!!!" light, simply replace the RB sender with a BMW sender / switch. (have I understood your dilemma correctly?) Wiring the tacho depends on how the BMW tacho works and how the Nissan tacho works (whether they both use square wave signal, or some other signal).

The LCA pivots from the cross-member out towards the hub assembly. (The cross-member is also the structure that the engine sits on)

Have you tried fitting the x-member end first, then connecting the hub?

You mean ADR approved. And Maltech in Geelong are (supposedly) the only manufacturer with said ADR approval.Great idea for a 32, can't imagine it would be any different for a 33.

There is a FAQ on the donateblood website about blood pressure. It's actually about HIGH blood pressure, but I think the answer is pertinent: Medicines for the control of blood pressure are acceptable, providing your blood pressure is adequately controlled and stable. If you are on meds to control your blood pressure, you may still be an acceptable donor. Check the actual problem with your doctor, then ring the Blood Bank (13 14 95) and ask them.

I would suggest that you have damaged one of the ABS sensors, located on the diff flange.

Don't know about your headlight problem. As for spark, does your engine have the igniter module on the top of the engine?

The engine blocks have the hole in one of 2 positions. It's just a way of cutting down on the number of pumps required to cover all engines. I have one of those pumps in my RB25, and it hasn't caused any problems.

These engines aren't designed to run 91 octane fuel. It would probably cost you more $$$ in poor fuel economy than the added cost of getting 98 octane stuff in the first place. If you shop at Coles, you can get the discount vouchers to buy Optimax. Woolies/Safeway, you can get Caltex Vortex 95 octane (worst case). Shell probably have a 95 as well.

Actually, I think the fronts are the same, it's the rears (lower mount) that's different. It's been coverd numerous times.

Yes, but won't the buyer have strut tops from their own suspension?

Why would you? The RB26 head has a HUGE combustion chamber (relative to the RB20), so you will DROP compression ratio. The RB20 is gutless enough as it is off-boost, without de-compressing it further.

It's the only thing under the throttle body. Hoses attached to both ends. You can't miss it (unless you're blind!).Actually, starting to sound a bit like dirty injectors. Had them cleaned recently?

A GT-R centre "what?" ?

Is it a GTS4 because it's got AWD, or because it's got 4 doors? GTS4 (AWD) suspension is basically the same as GT-R

Why do you need new strut tops? All they do is hold the top of the shock absorber in place. The real work of suspension geometry is in the double wishbone stuff, which is totally independent of the shock absorber.

The ends of the actual rack can wear. So the arm protruding from the rack to the tie-rod can have a bit of slop in it.