blind_elk

Under the throttle body (guessing RB20DET), is a "cold start air valve". Can't recall if it's supposed to be open or closed at (cold) start, but then a bi-metallic strip cause it to close or open. Pull it off, peer down the barrel. Tell us what you observe.

Don't understand what your problem would be with the temp gauge. Although I recall I unpicked the whole loom to retain wires I considered necessary to retain. My temp gauge works fine.

Before you do get a new clutch, have you checked all the mounting points and rubbers for the diff?

15W what? IIRC, Penrite is 15W40, maybe. 15W60 (and the '60' is the critical number) seems to be what is required if you are intent on caning the engine.

S1 runs an ignitor module? When they get a bit old, they tend to start breaking down when they get too hot.

How to prevent axle tramp? Well, how about - "stop dumping the clutch"? But generally, axle tramp is caused by the shocks and springs being totally mismatched. So, yes, it's a suspension thing.

How do you know it's "always 4WD"? I understood if you remove the fuse, the ECU goes to "limp home" mode. There are any number of threads that explain how (under what conditions) the ATTESSA works. Do you have front tyres different to the rear tyres?

Use the "Online Parts Catalogue" (top right of their home page). It calls the car the GTS (not GSTt). Springs you want appear to be P/n 73175 and P/n 83139. It doesn't specify which is "front" and which is "rear" - I suggest you contact Whiteline through their website and ask.

Here's an idea - how about looking at what's currently fitted to your car?

We're talking only about 7% difference here, and over a 1/4 axle turn (= 1 crankshaft revolution), I doubt you are going to notice that 7% variation. But you said before: So either it's all ok, or it's not all ok ????? It's roughly 7%. So when the rear is doing 100kmh, the front will only be doing 93. (rear at 60, the front will be doing ~55)The Stagea rear diff is externally slightly different to the R32. It's rumoured the Stagea doesn't have any form of LSD. So, it's probably safer to have the Stagea gears transferred to the R32 centre in the R32 diff housing. The front diff can possibly be removed with the engine in place - simply remove the front cover and the centre almost falls out (after removing drive shafts, which you have to do anyway).

What do I think? I think you are becoming far too obsessed with AFRs. These engines need to run rich on boost - and really, that is the only AFR you should be concerned with. The AFR at idle is difficult to measure because the gas flow is low, and inconsistent. At cruise, it is quite reasonable to run AFRs in excess of stoichiometric (although the factory ECU is unlikely to do this). Go to your track day. As long as the high-load (ie boost) AFRs are under about 12.5, your engine will be fine. Chill out about the AFRs and simply enjoy driving the car.

Firstly, these engines can run some high ignition timing at low load (eg cruise) conditions. 40 BTDC would not be unheardof. Standing revving at 2000 would be one such "low load" condition. Secondly, depending on how you use the timing light, and the timing light itself, you may have actually set the base timing to 7.5 BTDC, which is retarded and will cause the spark to fire too late to achieve optimum burn.

Aren't you cold??

You can do all the current testing on the POSITIVE side. EVERYTHING needs to be off, doors closed. If you observe a significant current draw, reconnect the battery clamp, and then do the same with each fuse to determine which circuit is drawing the current. But firstly, it could have been something simple like the boot light was on (don't ask why, but it can happen) after mucking around with the spare.

Springs - go to www.whiteline.com.au Brakes - go to www.dba.com.au - click on [where to buy][europe], then Georgia from drop-down list (there's an agent in Tbilisi)

It should be almost obvious when you look at the wheels while standing in front of the car if you have +ve or -ve camber.

The shock mount simply holds the shock absorber - it has absolutely no bearing on camber. Ronin - did that 1 deg neg come from a wheel alignment machine?

R32 GTS4 was a RB20DET. Mine (manual) has handled 180 kw through all 4 wheels, so I don't doubt the gearboxes are strong enough. The R33 GTS4 was N/A, because the RB25DET was almost as powerful as the RB26DETT.You will have to swap the rocker covers if you want to use the RB20 valley cover (bolt pattern is different), but then the PCV system is different between the 2 engines. If you run a RB20DET as N/A, I would have money on your 3-legged dog in a 1/4 mile sprint.

Are you sure you have NEGATIVE camber. I would have expected the adjustment to be compressed to give negative, ie shortening the arms will pull the upright, and thus the top of the wheel, in towards the centre of the car.

I think all you have is water in the electrics. Water in the intake will stop the engine dead in its tracks as it fills the cylinders with water. If you can, get the car under cover, spray the engine bay with liberal quantities of WD-40 (or similar), and let it dry naturally. You may need to disconnect and inspect every connector in the engine bay to ensure they're all ok.

When I did the initial install, I didn't concern myself with that (maybe I should have, but it seemed to work ok). When I swapped in the Stagea ratios, I had both ends done professionally, so I guess they were set up correctly.

I managed to do the swap with the gearbox still in the car, ie seperate engine from gearbox, lift engine out. AFAIK, there isn't any articles on the sump swap. The sump doesn't use a gasket, it uses special sealant. Much safer, and simpler, to only swap the actual differential units (even if the nut on the pinion is torqued to VFT). If you want to swap the whole sump, it will be basically "undo nuts, remove sump, fit new sump, do up nuts".

Yes, if you are happy to keep the 4.375 ratios, then you only you need to swap the front diff from the RB20 into the RB25. It's easier to swap the actual diff rather than swap the whole sump - no guarantee they are interchangeable. Simply remove the front cover from the diff housing, and the diff almost falls out. Have fun undoing the nut on the pinion (it is matched to the crown wheel on the diff carrier, so it needs to swap also). If you really need rapid acceleration, then stick to the R32 ratios. Frankly, I have found that the RB25DET has more than sufficient torque / power to accelerate a R32 pretty quickly. If you do the swap to the Stagea ratios, you will need to have the crown wheel and pinion for the rear swapped onto the RB20 centre in the RB20 housing - the housings are slightly different externally, and the Stagea is a 5-bolt driveshaft flange (R32 is a 6-bolt flange). If you do swap to the Stagea ratios, you will (eventually) need to replace the speedo drive gear in the gearbox - speedo will read about 5k UNDER at 60, ie 55 indicated = 60 actual. I'm using a GT-R one (it's close enough, considering speedo inaccuracy).

Ratios are different. Staggy = 4.083, R32 = 4.375 . You MUST match the front and rear ratios. I stuck the Stagea ratios in (had to get new rear diff, swapped crown wheel and pinion onto R32 centre) because I found the RB25DET has waaayy too much torque to need 4.375 ratios. NFI about the button.

Not on a R33 it doesn't. R33 has electric HICAS, only the R32 used P/S fluid.