blind_elk

There is no "stock" position for the CAS. It is adjustable because every engine is slightly different. These engines generally run rich by design - it is self-preservation. But it could be that the injectors are dirty and not shutting off properly, allowing excess fuel into the cylinder. As a start, have the injectors sonic-cleaned, then run injector cleaner (I find the Nulon product to be quite effective) on a regular basis. You may also have a dead O2 sensor if the diagnostic is not showing "red-green" cycling.

I've got some of my meds left over if you want to try-before-you-buy

What plugs are they? Gap?

For those interested (or even care), I gave blood today, and my BP was down to 130/80. Now, who else is going to get involved in this worthwhile project.

Are you sure they are GTt and not GT-R? What is the offset (should be cast into the rim, inside near the wheel stud holes)?

Sorry. my bad - was think of the cold start air valve. AAC is on the back of the plenum.

No it's not.

On a RB20DET, it's underneath the throttle body. On a RB25DET, it's on the underside of the inlet runners.

Do you get the engine up to proper operating temperature? It will run very rich while cold.

Basically you appear to have what the manual describes as "Unstable idling ... Cold engine only" So: 1. AAC valve 2. Engine temperature sender 3. Spark plugs

If you could find a 3.9, it would only drop the revs to around 2670. You then run the risk that it will take too long to get the engine back up into turbo range when you need it to hurry along.

Pretty certain it's a Viscous-Coupled LSD, just like the GTSt. It is possibly single-spinning now because it's simply worn out.

Yes, clutch fluid is the same as brake fluid. Clutch fluid is in the little cylinder beside the brake master cylinder, in the engine bay. It is a hydraulic fluid, and works the clutch basically the same way as the brake fluid works the brakes. Gearbox oil is an oil, ie lubricant. It allows the gears in the gearbox to work together smoothly. It is not really necessary to replace either the clutch fluid or the gearbox oil just because you are replacing the clutch. Can I suggest you look at a website "howstuffworks" - something like that.

Engine wasn't designed (or programmed) to ingest air at 14psi. Hold it back (maybe 12psi), and it should be ok. If you are running stock ECU, try a reset to have the ECU re-learn the startup.

Nurse Debbie just called ... again. Next donation is scheduled for 24 June, but no appointments are available until 15 July. I'm finding it too stressful arranging group bookings, but if we can get the numbers, I'm happy to do it. Or should we just let it ride that you guys organise yourselves to get your donations done in your own time. Anyone else interested in joining in - it would be a Sunday morning at Southbank donor centre (cnr Kavanagh & Balston Sts).

Still got the GT-R calipers?

Maybe next time you'll find out what it does BEFORE you remove it.

Has the PFC been tuned properly?

Is the road perfectly level, or does it slope down to the left? If it slopes, then of course the car will steer down there - gravity being what it is. If you can find a similar but 2 lane road, check what happens in the right hand lane.

Doubt it - my 32 (a GTS4) was running 4.4 . With a new 25DET, the engine had too much torque for those ratios, so I stuch the Stagea ratios in.

Do LESS!!!?? My 32 used to do around 3500 in 5th, until I fitted Stagea 4.1 diff. Now does around 2800. Absolutely nothing wrong with 2800 @110 kph in 5th. It's not a bloody V8 that produces torque from 1500!

I'm pretty certain the injectors fire in response to a signal from the CAS. Are they high impedance or low impedance injectors? To fill a cylinder to the point of hydraulicing the engine, the injector would have to be permanently open. Are you sure the re-map didn't put a huge time figure in the "start" fuelling parameter? You are just going to have to pull the rail and observe what the injectors are doing. Refit the originals to get the car to the workshop (it will probably run a bit lean, but as long as it's low-load, it shouldn't be a drama).

And what about that dufus "campaigner" - drives a '68 Monaro "HOON CAR OF THE 60s" LMAO.

DO NOT stick that stuff in your oil - it is INJECTOR cleaner, not LIFTER cleaner.

If the rims are the same size, then I would have the same size tyres all round. Allows you to rotate them to even out tyre wear.