blind_elk

The handset shows 15 because that is what the PFC is programmed to run at that particular map point. However, you now need to make the crankshaft also show 15. But you need to be careful, because some timing lights somehow double the reading (so that 15 "real" degrees shows up as 30 on the crank pulley).

It's not indicating that you have knock, it's indicating a fault in the knock sensor circuits.Have you checked that the CAS is working properly? Have you checked the base timing? Have you tried applying direct power to the VVT solenoid to see if it activates?

You shouldn't be able to produce boost when you free-rev the engine. There is no load to create enough exhaust gas to turn the turbine to create the boost. If the wastegate is opening under this situation, then the wastegate is kaput.

It sounds like the fuel pump is losing power as soon as the key returns to "ON". Even if you had poor compression, the engine would still run once it started. You need to fit a fuel pressure gauge to confirm that the pump and FPR are working correctly.

For a temperature sensor - BS!

DO YOU HAVE SPARK - definitely?

If they represent an Australian company, they can be stopped (the company they are representing will be nailed, if needs be)

Ordinarily, when the water temp sensor dies, the car still has good cold start but runs ultra rich at operating temp (ECU thinks the engine is still cold, and overfuels). Poor cold start could be the Cold Start (Air) Valve.

You also need power to the ECU during "start".

How about your local Nissan dealer, who can hook up the Consult module. Have you tried a new temp sensor?

"Amen" to that.

Here's a thought - go and check the ones on your car!

What tyre pressure? Fronts should be couple of psi higher than rears. And a stiffer REAR bar might help.

The fuel would still at least be combustible. So, no, I wouldn't expect that to be the problem. Standard questions - can you hear the injectors 'tick tick tick' when cranking? do you have spark? do you have compression? How fast does the engine crank? (try jump starting?) What sort of voltage do you have available while the engine is cranking?

And the Baron had already said: not too difficult to understand that is it?

If the brakes have been bled with no improvement, then I think you need to start looking into the possibility that tacker raised that you have several jammed pistons. A caliper reco kit should fix it.

Glad you're all basically ok. HOWEVER ... if you see any animal within a bull's roar of the road ... SLOW DOWN, do not try and avoid it, do not try and second guess which way it will go. Slow down until you know you can get passed it with making contact. I hit a calf many years ago. Stupid animal was crossing the road, under brakes I was veering in the opposite direction, then the stupid thing turned around and scampered right in front of the car - say goodbye to a radiator.

I would have thought you just buy 4 of the same rim - how hard is that?

The ambient temps clearly show the 2 runs weren't done on the same day, probably not even the same month! Is it any wonder then that you encountered differences. Although I would expect the colder day to produce better power. Are both dynos the same model? Same manufacturer?

GTS4 is a 4-spot caliper, using the same pads as GT-R. The GT-R has cross-drilled rotors, which might be slightly larger diameter (check at dba.com.au). I have found that slotted replacements and braided brake lines provide more than adequate stopping power for a GTS4.

Certainly check, and possibly replace, ALL water hoses. Head gaskets generally aren't a problem, unless you blow a water hose.

Really don't think it matters a cracker.

RB20DET inlet has a bigger lift (7.8 v 7.3) and longer duration (240 v 232). The 2 sets of cams have different lobe centres. However, AFAIK, cams have little bearing on compression ratio.

Have one from a Stagea - in Melbourne. PM if interested.

Do you still have compression?