blind_elk

Stretching the timing belt will ordinarily only change cam timing. I doubt it would change it so much as to induce pinging. What plugs did you use? A dying fuel pump could induce pinging by leaning the mixtures out (not capable of delivering enough fuel).

From what I've read, 40 on a low load (ie cruise) at 3500 would not be out of the ordinary. 40 at 3500 on boost ... now that's another question.

The fact that it ran OK after you stopped and re-started suggests the battery is on its way out. You don't know how old the battery was before you got the car, so it could well be the source of the problem. If you are not prepared to replace the battery immediately, get hold of a mate's that you know is relatively new and see if that cures the problem.

It WILL NOT be the O2 sensors - only used at cruise when engine at operating temperature. Skyline ECUs are extremely sensitive to voltage - how old is the battery?

Spec is 14.5 - 15.5 kg-m for a manual, 9.5 - 10.5 for an auto.

I'm guessing this was at Calder? If you need to launch it, try strapping it to a Saturn V rocket

Can I suggest that with 800cc injectors, you are NEVER going to attain a clean idle. The injector open time will be so short that you will not get a good spray pattern, and even at a minimum opening time you will simply dump fuel into the engine. And a 13 AFR is not really all that bad (certainly better than 10!)

Point of order, Mr ex-President. Are you seconding both nominees? If so, then I don't believe you can. It is accepted practice that if you nominate or second someone, then you vote for them (why would you not vote for a nominee you clearly, by nominating or seconding, considered a suitable applicant for the position?) Clearly you cannot vote for 2 nominees. And Kaz will need to be nominated and seconded again. As you said, once the position is filled, game over. This is a new game. Kaz may have decided not to stand - she shouldn't be automatically included in any subsequent ballot simply because she partook in a previous ballot. Finally - why, if this is for SAU-Vic members only, is it in the general forum member area?

I put a Stagea RB25DET into a R32 GTS4. All I did was tell VicRoads that I had changed the engine. They checked that the engine# on the block matched the Engine# on the piece of paper - "Robert is your father's brother".

A crash repairer can re-build the rail (had it done on my 32).

They should be According to the good book, error 13 is "Break or short circuit in engine temperature sensor signal system"I'm guessing you have a break somewhere in the wire, but it only breaks the circuit under some strange orientation condition. I would guess it will be close to the plug onto the sensor. Try wiggling the wire while measuring ohms between the plug and the ECU end.

Z145A - but don't get a f*****g Ryco, they are rubbish.

Just did it yesterday - with a new filter, it took nearly the whole 5L

Try getting one for a L24E (R30). They appear to be physically the same. (RB30 (R31 / VL) might be a goer, as well)

If you had searched this forum, you would ahve found heaps. Happens every week!

And if it all goes pear-shaped - could be my life (as well, or instead). I reiterate : You can NEVER have too much driver training.

You've removed all the timing belt covers? There are definitely no bolts still connected on the underside, out of view? It's possible the sealant used in assembly is "gluing" the pump on - use a bigger hammer!

You can NEVER have too much driver education. That's the problem these days - everyone reckons they are the Michael Schumaker of the roads.And if he's still on his Ps, I don't want to see a post complaining about getting "harrassed" by police. And I don't accept the "you can be as big a dick in a Gemini" argument. It all happens so much faster in a hi-powered, hi-performance car.

I think you will find the scale is "x 100 mm Hg". So "7" (700 mm Hg) is roughly 13psi.

To the best of my knowledge, all R32-R34 Skylines come with a viscous coupled LSD as standard in the rear. GT-Rs (and GTS4s) run an open diff in the front. And they do not have a centre diff - they use a clutch-pack setup to transfer drive to the front diff.

Did you reset the ECU? The ECU retains error codes for 50 "start cycles" before clearing the error from memory.

My money is on piston slap of the cold piston in the bore. Forgies need to be HOT to work properly.

Page 30 of the Road Rules handbook (Giving way to pedestrians):

I'm planning a trip up to the Flinders Ramges next weekend. So I took the spacesaver around to the local servo to check the pressure, just in case I need to use the spare. I can't seem to find the recommended pressure. The sidewall has "4.2 kg/cm2" on it, but that's over 60 psi! Anyway, I put 30 psi in it, does that sound about right? (http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...saver++pressure is the only thing I could find that mentions pressure in a spacesaver)

As you stand in front of the engine bay and stare down on the crank pulley, the timing marks move from left to right (in LHD, that's from passenger side to driver side). So the first mark you see is 30 BTDC, then 5 deg decrements to 0 (TDC). (Note - 15 BTDC is the same mark, regardless of which end of the marks you start from) I have observed that some timing lights "double" the reading, so to get 15 BTDC actual, you need to set it up at 30 BTDC.