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blind_elk

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Everything posted by blind_elk

  1. blind_elk
    38
  2. blind_elk
    Did you reset the idle speed using the screw on the base of the AAC valve?
  3. blind_elk
    There's a fluid reservoir behind the boot-liner panel, beside the RH taillamp assembly. Turn key -> IGN, then top up reservoir with ATF to between the markers. Failing that, it may need a bleed. Or it's cactus clutch plates. But I'd put my money on the low fluid.
  4. blind_elk
    I thought you could adjust the position where the switch makes contact with the brake pedal.
  5. blind_elk
    Sorry. It's at the Southbank centre (cnr Kavannagh and Balston Sts, S. Melbourne)
  6. blind_elk
    Mine failed a (Vic) RWC because of crushed rails (caused by jacking under them).
  7. blind_elk
    All you people who are now into donating blood, Nurse Debbie just called, reminding me that you are all scheduled again after 11 March. I have made a tentative booking for Sunday April 1 (no joke!) for 10 people, at 9:40 am. Although I'm now out of the loop, so to speak, I will attend to lend moral support. So, if you are one of the existing number, or you would like to join this elite group, then email your confirmation at [email protected] Tx
  8. blind_elk
    You will probably lose the ATTESSA. ATTESSA takes a signal from the TPS. Wolf EMS has a "black box" module to solve this problem.
  9. blind_elk
    What happens when you swap #1 coil with #2 coil? Does #1 still misfire, or is it now #2?
  10. blind_elk
    Think yourself lucky. Many years ago, to get a roadworthy, you HAD TO replace the windscreen. Without any form of measuring equipment, they always deemed that a (used) windscreen did not meet the standard for light transmission.
  11. blind_elk
    I reckon: The problem at boost is compressor surge - you need a re-program of the ECU. The idle problem is either an air leak (hose off somewhere) or a dirty AAC valve.
  12. blind_elk
    Unlikely it's a problem with wiring. The alarm's actuators piggyback onto the originals, and are locked in place by a grub screw. Sometimes the screw comes loose, and the actuator simply slides along the factory rod. Re-align the alarm actuator on the factory rod, tighten the grub screw, and Robert's your father's brother.
  13. blind_elk
    Join the gang, Kylie.Now girls, correct me if I'm mistaken, but you really don't care how many roses - 1 is as good as a roomful.
  14. blind_elk
    Yes. And obviously put back the hose joing the 2 rockers.
  15. blind_elk
    pretty certain that's a shot taken from the SIDE, not the BACK. Looks like one of the cradle bushes has gone bye-byes.Actually, on closer inspections, does look like the remnants of a roll cage
  16. blind_elk
    The passenger rocker cover is still feeding oil vapours back into the inlet side of the turbo. In my installation, the catch can basically replaces the hose from the passenger side rocker to the turbo inlet (that 'U'-shaped hose coming straight up off the passenger side rocker).
  17. blind_elk
    NO! It will go into "limp home" mode if it detects an error in the ATTESSA system. The R32 is the only one you can "pull the fuse". Frankly, if you want RWD, then buy a RWD.
  18. blind_elk
    WTF are U jabbering on about? ALL R32 GTS[t/4]s came out with a silver top (RB20 ECCS).
  19. blind_elk
    The shoes are adjusted through the 1/2" hole in the rotor hat. The adjustment is near the "7 o'clock" position. You will need a flat-blade screwdriver to undo the adjusting wheel.
  20. blind_elk
    2300 rpm limit is usually a sign of a cactus AFM.
  21. blind_elk
    Wolf won't reset if you remove power. It will retain the last map programmed in. You'd be surprised how crappy a RB engine will run when it has a crook coil.
  22. blind_elk
    I have one from a Stagea. Might do the job for you. $50
  23. blind_elk
    Try a wheel alignment.
  24. blind_elk
    Pull the dipstick and have a look at the oil on the end. If it's still clean and clear, then it should be basically ok - it won't "go off" doing nothing.
  25. blind_elk
    First off, make sure the globes are sitting correctly into the sockets. There are 2 adjusting screws, visible from above the lamp unit. One adjusts L/R, the other Up/Down.
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