blind_elk

You have to enter the Nationals before you can enter any events associated with the Nationals. The $75 is the basic entry fee, and generally covers merchandise and memorabilia of the Nationals.

I've got a set from a RB20DET, if that's any help to you. (you can keep the six-pack).

Check the tension on the alternator / fan belt.

Locknut = 17mm open ended adjust = 14mm open ended and feeler gauge

I always use these (hot) settings: ex 10 thou in 8 thou

You have a permanently "heavy" pedal, is that your problem? Here's a dumb thought - is it possible to put the hose on "arse-about"? Maybe the valve is facing the wrong way. Or the valve is cactus.

As long as the locating keys are intact, there is only 1 way it will go back together. The engine will run, regardless. If you mark it on the bolt holes, it should be ok - not likely to paint those. If in doubt, check it with a timing light.

cowie, no-one said he was going to paint the CAS. Just needs to remove it to get the cam cover off. jwah, The door is basically welded shut. However, there are openings on the inner panel to gain access to the components. There is probably a protective sheet of plastic on the door under the trim. If you carefully break the adhesive, and peel the plastic back, you should have access. But it's not easy access. If you are only doing the rocker covers, then they can be removed without upsetting the CAS. If you do remove the CAS, take care not to break the half-moon locating key on the camshaft side.

Just to set the record straight, that was the Skyline Nationals, and was organised to celebrate the 20th anniversary of the R31. (IMO, NDSOC should never have been involved at the level they were, but that's a whole different kettle of fish).This is the Nissan Datsun Sports Nationals (originally Z Nationals), which is held every second Easter. Organisation rotates between the Sydney, Melbourne and Brisbane Z clubs. There is a thread in the National Events section, which I put up late last year.

As they say in the classics: "Actions speak louder than words" We can do our bit by simply displaying our SAU stickers, and driving like responsible citizens. Not participating in "Noble Park" style events. Not racing other cars at the lights. Not acting like idiots. We simply go about our daily business in the most responsible way we know how. We can distance ourselves from "hoons" by not getting involved in any way, shape or form in the controversy surrounding these imbeciles; as such, we neither enhance nor detract from the perception that the public has of "hoons".

Is it the arm, or just the bushes? Because the bushes are replaceable. (see places like Whiteline)

Get the injectors cleaned. Replace the fuel filter. Also, I once fitted new injectors to my L24E. The engine kept stalling because the crap injectors weren't capable of maintaining the low duty cycles (like 1 - 2%) at idle.

"Computer Nerd" lol. Database application programming and support, HR/payroll application. (very) originally, industrial chemistry - plastics, paint.

I had an idea that one of the current Alfa Romeos has the factory position off-centre, to the left (for Europe, to boot).

If you want to accelerate faster, you want the diffs (yes, plural - front AND rear) from the R32 GTS4. These are 4.375 ratio.

The usual "butcher's" way to undo the bolt is to set it up so the breaker bar rests on the chassis rail, and hit the starter. If the engine is out of the half-cut, then resting on the ground should have the same effect. You should be able to use jumpers onto the starter terminals.

I'll be there. I'm bringing a ppt presentation showing some of the roads we'll be using for our next cruise.

1. Learn to read the traffic, so you don't create emergencies. 2. Learn threshhold braking I have yet to get myself into a situation on the street where I have had to activate the ABS.

All depends on how big / wide the wheels are.

Have you got oil in the diff? Possibly needs to have the backlash adjusted.

The Maltech ones are the only ones I'm aware of that are ADR approved. Do the APPs have ADR approval?

The unleaded will increase the risk of detonation when on boost. If you want to get rid of it, go for a liesurely drive up the F3(?) to Newcastle and back. Then fill with PULP.

The O2 sensor is a single wire (non-heated) design. It uses a shielded core cable to supply signal (the shielding connects to an earth on the ECU).

Doesn't retard timing at all. But never had the engine even suggest it wanted to explode. Did have the dizzy modified to limit the advance, though. The wiring diagram is virtually identical to the L24's, with the addition of an O2 sensor connecting to pin 13 and one other pin (I'll have to check which is the other pin).

Add to the engine oil. Get it at Autobarn and the like.