blind_elk

Do a search for my conversion - it's back in 2005, though.

It could be noisy lifters. They may be gummed up a bit, and not letting correct oil pressure through to give the correct running clearance. Nulon make an additive for clearing them out. However, one possibility for the noise could be "piston slap" - the bore has worn a bit, and the clearances to the piston and rings is now out of spec. That can only be fixed with a rebuild of the engine. Try the Nulon first - it's a lot cheaper.

Also called an anti-roll bar. Designed to reduce body roll when cornering. You could get the same effect by fitting heavier springs, but that would increase the overall harshness in the ride. Sway / Anit-roll bars achieve the result without increasing ride stiffness.

PM sent

Yes, the GTS4 will readily accept the GT-R gear, since it runs very similar hardware. I've whacked a Stagea RB25DET in my GTS4 (RB26 was too expensive) - it pushed 180kW out all 4, on 95 octane fuel. I reckon that has to be close to a stock GT-R.

Can't point you at exact posts - I just recall the question being raised on several occasions. Which is "the latest HPI"? I believe #75 is the latest, and it isn't in there.

If anything, you need to be adjusting some "offset" parameter so that the PFC handset agrees with the timing light.RTFM. Or don't PFCs come with a manual?

The increase in torque is from the longer stroke of a RB25. Nothing at all to do with the head. And if the head did fit, you would lose compression ratio.

My 3 rules of performance improvements: 1. Make it stop 2. Make it handle 3. Make it go

It's not just a matter of fitting the mechanicals. The ATTESSA has its own computer and wiring system. The question has been asked several times before, and the concensus of opinion is : sell what you have, and buy the real thing.

R32 GT-R suspension is what you need for the GTS4. Not sure about the brakes (I've stuck with upgrades designed for the GTSt/GTS4).

Welcome to the world of the poor man's GT-R. If you want suspension, then get GT-R stuff. Everything else is GTSt.

Does the A/C have a full charge of gas? There is a low-pressure switch that will fail to switch if the gas pressure is too low, ie not enough gas.

I'm pretty sure that only works with the R32s. If you do that on a 33 or 34, they go into "limp home" mode. Which is why someone worked out that the switch by-passes the "limp home" function.

The CAS unit sits on the front of the cam cover, in front of the exhaust camshaft. The NVCS solenoid sits behind the "hump" on the cam cover in front of the inlet cam.

We still don't know what the problem actually is. I'm guessing that you don't have AWD after replacing the ECU and removing ABS. If so, then the question needs to be asked - how will ATTESSA know when you have wheel slip? I'm pretty certain it uses the ABS wheel sensors. The other input it needs is a signal from the TPS. Wolf EMS has a "black box" unit to perform that function.

I have everything except the J-pipe. But I have a modified pipe that will suit a FMIC setup. The loom is a hand-built unit, but connects to a "conventional" distributor.

If that's the reason for buying a car, then you shouldn't be buying it. I always buy cars because I enjoy driving them.There are very few cars that retain their resale value. The potential resale value should be the last reason you purchase a car. Now, go back the person you were getting it from and explain that you are not permitted, under the "high performance cars" regulations, to drive such a car - don't let him bully you with the "my son drives a 34 on his Ps" argument - and cancel the deal, quicksmart.

As an educated guess, something in the selector mechanism has broken, or slipped out of place. The only way to fix is to remove the gearbox and disassemble it.

That's ADVANCED. And just because the PFC says it's 20 doesn't mean it's running at 20. It all depends on when the PFC gets the trigger to start its calculation as to the correct moment to fire the spark. SEARCH. The question gets asked every other week RTFM? You can really only set the timing with a timing light on the crank pulley

How about -Not enough members have had a chance to tell Jason what an absolute di(khead he is.

It's RWD most of the time! AWD is only engaged under certain conditions, like cornering, or rear-wheel slip.Frankly, if you don't like the idea of Nissan's AWD system, don't get a car with it fitted; get a plain old common-or-garden RWD, like a Falcodore.

Maybe try dropping back to a 17" rim, which will introduce some ride comfort via sidewall flex. The Mazda is not a performance car, so will not have performance car suspension. The BMW, while a sort of performance car, is still fitted with family-car-comfort suspension. If you want a comfy ride, get a Falcodore or something. If you want a performance car, put up with performance car ride and comfort.

That's your problem - the pedal box has collapsed. You will need to remove it and get it welded back together, or replace it.

You are measuring VOLTS, you need to measure AMPS (ie current). Volts are measured in parallel with the device you are testing, amps are measure in series. It will probably vary with the design of the multimeter you have - mine has A (makes sense) near the various scale settings. And you only need to check the fuses if you find a significant current flowing from the battery.