blind_elk

Good one, frosty. noza, I think you actually have a problem with idle (when will people learn to spell?, or at least use the correct homonym?). It could also be a problem with the TPS - which you may well have discovered with a <SEARCH>.

Can we get this translated, please.I can only suggest that the gauge is faulty, and has lost its baseline setting. They are mechanical devices, after all, and mechanical things break.

ATTESSA is the AWD system, nothing to do with steering. Was the steering wheel straight when the wheels were aligned?

They look just like mine. And they're not all that expensive, either (for 1:18 scale models!).

It's a crime if it's against the law. And perjury is against the law.But typical of society today - noone prepared to take responsibility for their own actions.

If you have a GT-R, then you DO NOT want different sized wheels on the front compared to the rear. Otherwise you will be (re-)posting a(nother) thread that your AWD is misbehaving.

Switch everything off. Switch the multimeter to amps, remove the +ve cable, and measure the amps between +ve battery terminal and the +ve cable. Reconnect battery. Then remove each fuse in turn, and measure if any amps across each fuse slot - that will tell you which circuit is drawing the current that is killing the battery.

So, you are going to sit a device, designed to remove heat, inside a hot-box (ie engine bay), and pass pre-heated air (ie air that has just passed thru the radiator) through it in order to cool the air charge being delivered to the engine. How on earth can that be good for the engine? I have seen one such installation - the IC was hotter than the radiator after a few laps of Winton racetrack.

Rev the engine to around 2k. If the volts increase with revs, the regulator is cooked, and will result in your battery being overcharged. Overcharging will kill it.

34 front, 32 rear (cold)

Well, as they say in the news media: "Never let the truth get in the way of a good story"

It seems the original post was too subtle for some.So, for those who don't know, Lara is the pretty young lady that caused all that controversy over the Australian Tourism ads in Britain, asking "So, where the bloody hell are you?" So, where the bloody hell were you on Sunday? You didn't even have the courtesy to try and let me know you couldn't make it. I put a lot of time into organising this, and it's my name that comes up when the Blood Bank start asking about the value of these bookings. I don't need that kind of publicity; I don't need that kind of stress. (Worrying about it probably contributed to my blood pressure being 200/100). Not happy, Jan!

You can safely set the thermo fan to come on at 90, even higher. The fan doesn't need to keep the engine at the thermostat temp - that is usually achieved by the car moving through the air.

Lara Bingle won't be enquiring as to my whereabouts tonight.

Get injectors cleaned. Clean AAC valve. Check Cold Start air valve. Check / replace (ECU) temperature sender. Standard or aftermarket ECU?

I would suggest that braking and accelleration squeaks are more likely to come from the upper control arm bushes.

Can you screw the adjuster platform down? The car is off the ground, with suspension at full droop? Try WD40 (or similar) to clean / lubricate the threads.

Don't skimp on suspension. It's basically what controls the contact your car has with the road. Best bang-for-buck, IMHO, Bilstein shock absorbers, Kings springs. A full package will probably set you back around the $1500 mark. If that's beyond your budget, upgrade the shocks first (about 1G), then do the springs later. (If the shocks are leaking, they aren't working, so a waste of time doing anything else.) Sydneykid has a group buy somewhere on the forum, do a search.

Which wrecker? I know the big Nissan / Toyota / "every Jap car" wreckers in Clayton had a S2 a while ago. The extractors probably won't hurt. As for the camshaft, the 260C was just a Joe Average family saloon. The cam won't be anything to write home about. Probably wouldn't pull the skin off a cold rice pudding. If you are after camshafts, you really need the 240Z shafts, or maybe a 260Z. Have a chat to Lindsay at Z Shop in Glen Iris - he's bound to have heaps of them.

R32 GTS4 is turbo (RB20DET). R33 GTS4 is N/A (RB25DET would have given it performance too similar to the GT-R). The suspension is really the only stuff that interchanges with GT-R. Everything else is GTSt.

Adzmax, Mavric, AGE - Lara Bingle called.

A test for you to carry out first. Jack up the front of the car, and fit a cable-tie around the shock absorber pushrod. Make sure the tie is down hard against the shock body. Drop the car, now jack it up again. Observe where the tie is - if it's hard up against the bump stop, then you have no suspension travel. If there is still some clearance, then you probably just have super stiff springs.

No, you need to be in contact with a metal part of the car as you get out. Once you are out, it's too late.

It's not the car, it's your clothing. Too much polyester / synthetics. When you are jumping around in the seat, the rubbing of you clothes on the cloth of the seat generates a static charge. To avoid the jolt, make sure you have a hold of the door frame as your foot touches the ground.

Is the steering rack available? Condition is not important.