blind_elk

Not sure why you think flat-top pistons are required. The L24E has a 8.5:1 C/R, which is basically the same as a RB20DET. So I don't believe you need to be looking at flat-tops (assuming you are looking at them for more compression). As far as a turbo for your engine is concerned, the RB20 turbo will bolt straight onto the L20ET manifold. And you may have more success sourcing L28ET manifolds and the like - perhaps try Lindsay at Z Shop in Melbourne.

When the fuel is cooler, it is denser, so more fuel molecules in the same volume. Therefore the engine should run richer, which is not overly desirable for making power.

You mean it's not going onto a RB engine? Or it's from, say, a RB20 and going to, say, a RB25? I don't believe so. I believe the gear and it's associated half-moon key is part of the camshaft. Can't help you with the rest right now, maybe tonight after I check at home.

I've still got one.

Can he get to Glen Waverley by 6:30ish? I think there's a bus service to Glen Waverley station. (I can get him all the way home.) PM for more info.

Doesn't it just rot your socks, that anyone could have such little regard for another person's property. Had mine keyed - LH door. Surprisingly almost identical to the key that was on the car before I bought it (owner had it fixed once he knew the car was "sold"). I've just left it - figured someone's done it once, they'll do it again.

Idler arm is attached to the LH chassis rail, just behind the strut. It is probably the bushes that are worn - they can be replaced by urethane ones (available from Pedders). Tie-rod ends are attached to the rear side of the strut, and have a threaded length of rod screwed into them. Ball joints are sandwiched between the lower control arm (connects bottom of strut to engine cross-member) and the strut. The oil sender, IIRC, is a 14mm hex nut. You will need an open-ended spanner to remove it. Replace the front muffler with a hot-dog muffler. Hope that all makes sense. EDIT: Actually, I think to replace the ball joints you need to replace the whole lower control arm.

Not sure what you're carrying on about. You need to remove the squab (the bit you sit on) first - that then exposes the bolts securing the back in place. Now, the squab can be a bit of a bugger to get out, and I've generally had success simply peeling the squab back a bit and getting the bolts with a socket on an extension rod.

You might have to remove the rim and gently punch it out from the inner side of the rim.

If you disconnect the the sensor for the ECU (that's the 2-pin sensor, BTW), the ECU will either regard it as an error and run in safe mode, or it will always think the engine is cold and run with LOTS of fuel. The sensor you can afford to replace is the single-pin sensor adjacent to the ECU sensor - it is the one that works the temp gauge in the instrument cluster. If you are fitting a new gauge, you obviously don't need that one to work.

Anyone worked out how to get audio from our DVDs? I'll bring the Rides and Monster Garage set if you like. And I can bring scene 14 (I think) from Bullitt.

I would have my money on a smashed ring or smashed ring-land, allowing boost pressure to bypass the piston and pressurise the sump. And the simplest pressure-relief valve is the dip stick. Get it checked pronto.

Strange as it sounds, check the TPS connection is secure. That's the longitudinal G-sensor at work.

I think it might be the "ambient temperature" sensor for the A/C

CAMS has a press release relating to a recall of Chubb 1kg extinguishers. http://www.cams.com.au/content.asp?PageID=...mp;ObjectID=819 Go to http://www.recalls.gov.au/view_recall_deta...l_ID_Auto=14450 for more details

760mm Hg is "atmospheric" pressure - ie, what we are all currently exposed to. Engines get air and fuel into the cylinders by creating a vacuum - something less than 760 mmHg.If your gauge didn't show less than 760 while the engine was running, I'd be worried. Back to your original problem - have you had the injectors cleaned recently. Also, check the Cold Start Air valve is operating correctly. And check the water temp sender is functioning correctly.

Only if you can help me find the missing tag - somwhere between Melbourne and Shepparton

Axle stand.Yes, NEVER support the vehicle on the chasis rails. Sit the axle stands under the rear suspension cradle. Give the bolts a good soaking with WD40 or similar, and try and use a ring spanner or hex socket on them. Before you invest in a compressor, get a good trolley jack.

Front left assembly (the "clear" type). For a 1989 R32 GTS4. The "tag" that the retaining screw goes through has broken on mine, so I'm having to hold it in with "go-faster" (race tape). Tx

Try Pitsop Bookshop, in Perth - www.pitstop.net.au - they have the English versions of the Nissan Workshop Manual. Item# 13923 - R32 Engine Manual A$220 Item# 9158 - R32 GT-R Workshop Manual - A$549 Postage is extra

A 30 grade (hot) oil, ie X-30, is basically designed for the cooler conditions in Japan. Coming summer in Oz, I would think you could probably run a slightly heavier oil, like 10-40. Maybe 20-60 is getting a bit too thick.

Can be done - even solid pipes have some degree of flex, to allow you to move the turbo back away from the manifold.

-ve camber on stock (front) suspension doesn't sound right. The rear camber is adjustable, but they haven't touched it.

so that as the compressor spools up, it spikes the wastegate, and before the engine has even seen the increased boost, the exhaust gas is dumped past the exhaust wheel. so that the engine never sees the "wastegated" boost. Unless you pick up the signal for the boost gauge off the back of the compressor, your turbo will always be producing more boost than the boost gauge is indicating.

Pull the fuse to the fuel pump while the engine is running (or in your case, while cranking the engine), and the bulk of the pressure will be released. The fuel cap can't hold the pressure you encountered.