blind_elk

that was going to be my "last resort".

Reminder that some of us are giving blood Sunday (September 24) at the Red Cross's Southbank centre (Cnr Balston and Kavanagh Sts, South Melbourne). If you aren't giving, why not cvome along to lend moral support.

Got a problem, that I've had for a while, with the R30. Seems I can't fill the fuel tank too full, otherwise when the day warms, the fuel expands and overflows out the filler. I got it fitted with a 120Y locking cap - I'm guessing they are compatible, but it could be the totally wrong cap to use. Does the charcoal canister have anything to do with this problem? It's about 285k old, AFAIK. Also, anyone know if Nissan have a ULP neck and cap for the R30? Tx

Broken ring(s).

Specs at: http://www.aclperformance.com.au According to the specs, these pistons are a 8.5 C/R

In a couple of weeks, the L20ET is being transplanted to the R30 hatchback. Does anyone out there have an engine crane I could borrow for a few days? PM if you can help out. Tx

What I've been told: DO NOT pump it through. Jack the car up on all four corners. Simply open the bleed nipples and let the fluid drain under gravity When the fluid stops flowing, top up the reservoir, and let the new fluid flow through under gravity. Helps if you use different coloured fluid, otherwise you have to basically guess. Close off all the nipples, then do the normal brake bleed method. Nothing out of the ordinary. The temperature resistance of the brake fluid can't be too high, ie high temp fluid is better than lesser temp fluid.

Mine are 40 thou, but were never installed. . No actual spec sheet. This is the meaning of the markings, as explained on the box: RA9603X = Part Number 0.50 = Oversize (0.5 mm / 20 thou) RIB = measure bore clearance at RIB (= Bottom / skirt) of piston 0.10 = Piston to bore clearance (mm) R1 (RI ?) = Batch number Contact ACL, and ask them the cc of the dome for your C/R calculation.

Are you certain the bulb is dead. The switch unit is famous for causing problems like this.

Looks like the same markings on a set of ACLs I have.

There was something (on here?) in the last week or so that V RICH mixtures can also cause pinging. Have you checked all the PFC maps? Fuel pressure? The safest way to check timing is to insert a lead between #1 coil and #1 spark plug.

Try www.exedy.com.au You are probably after a NM043SBMC

It won't be the O2 sensor - save your money. If it's not running on one cylinder, have you determined which cylinder? Disconnect each coil until no difference is found. Then move that coil to another cylinder and test again. If it is now on the new location, then it's the coil, if it's with the original cylinder, then it's a plug. It doesn't matter what the PFC says the timing is; it is what a timing light says that's important.

www.bodydoubles.tvNothing special, as far as I'm concerned (and I'm very discerning).

RB25 CAS runs 6 cylinders, CA18 is only 4 cylinders!!You're both absolutely positive that both camshafts are aligned correctly with each other and the crank. I happen to have a 4-cylinder CAS, which I purchased by mistake (well, I was told it was a RB20 unit). Slip me a few $$, and I can send it to you.

It's only a little 2 litre engine, trying to haul 1.5 Tonnes of car around. Skylines in general are renowned for pathetic fuel economy - learn to live with it. As for your start problems, get the injectors sonic cleaned. That may also help your top end performance as well. It could also be related to a dying fuel pump. Clean the AAC valve. Check the cold start valve, located under the throttle body. Check / change spark plugs. Check base ignition timing. That should keep you occupied for a while.

Reefton Spur - head out through Warburton, runs up past Lake Mountain and comes in at the back of Marysville. Unfortunately, you have to use the damned Black Spur to get home. Also, NDSOC are having their annual Gippsland Drive this Sunday up to Walhalla. Details on their website (www.ndsoc.com.au)

Joe's referring to the sliding clip that closes the inductive pickup around the trigger wire. The timing is way too far advanced. If the CAS is like RB series ones, it should have a locating half-moon key on the ex camshaft. However, they are prone to snapping off, which allows the CAS to installed in the wrong position. I suspect that the locating teeth are 1 set out. Carefully withdraw the CAS, and rotate its shaft counter clockwise about 20 deg, then re-install. That should get you close.

Yep, those look like the 240 carbies. It should run better, and more economically, because the twin manifold allows the engine to breath a bit easier.There should be a small cogged wheel on the underside of the carby that allows adjustment of the fuel jet for setting mixture. The 260 carbs didn't have that adjustment.

They make sure the wheel rotates on the same axis as the hub. Wheel studs don't always guarantee that.

The SUs should bolt straight up. Which SUs? If they are from a 260Z, then you've done your dough - they are about as useful as an ashtray on a motorbike. 240Z, on the other hand...

It should be marked on the base of the globe somewhere as to what model it is.

The main point here is: How do you continually get yourself into situations where you have to brake so hard that you lock the brakes? Change your driving style. Read the traffic ahead. Keep an eye out for idiots who might not be so savvy in the driving ability department. ABS is for incompetents. In the 6 years I have had a car with ABS (R32 GTS4), I've activated the system maybe twice (once on the race track). That said, I'm surprised that in the 5 or so years this forum has been around, that no-one has ever wondered if their car has ABS, and asked this very question. Try looking at the lights on the instrument panel when you start the car - if you have ABS, then you will have a warning light show up at IGN-ON.

AFAIK, all the R30s in Oz are the 2.4l 6 cylinder EFI. There was a 4 cylinder carburettor version (L20B, I think) and a L20ET (2 litre 6 cyl EFI turbo) version, but none was officially sold in Australia.

Had a horrible feeling you'd stuck engine oil in there. Diffs need something a lot heavier, like 80W90. Actually, just re-reading your original post, I now recall a similar problem with my GTS4. Turned out to be a problem with the TPS not plugged in properly.