blind_elk

A reminder though - "Club Reg" <> "Cheap Reg". You only get the drive the car on a maximum 90 days per year. If you are happy with that, then go for it.

If the shocks are that adjustable, then you really need to get the car corner weighted if you want to get the best out of the suspension. Ask Pedders if they can corner weight the car. If they can't, ask them where you can get it corner weighted. And don't let them tell you that it doesn't need corner weighting, because handling is all about weight transfer (which Pedders should be aware of), and uneven weight distribution is not a good place to start.

I will have a 4-day general admission pass available. First in, best dressed. (tic available from Wed pm)

That will mean a looowww profile on the front. What did I say in my previous post? HIGHER profiles on the front REDUCE understeer. So the inverse is also true - lower profiles on the front will induce understeer. Well, I tried!

If you had a significant amount of water in the tank, it should have an almost immediate effect, since the water will sit in the bottom of the tank and get taken up by the pump. You probably have a small amount (if any). Toss a bottle of metho in the fuel tank - this will help dissolve any water into the petrol.

245 17 tyres. That's about as useful as "rubber tyres"! There are tyres, and then there are tyres. Manufacturer? Model? Profile? Pressure? And which model Blitz coilover? Are they height adjustable? If so, you will have to have the car corner weighted if you want the best outcome. This what I'm told works to reduce understeer (or increase oversteer): - increase front tyre pressure (higher than rear) - reduce rear tyre pressure - softer front spring - stiffer rear spring - softer front roll bar - stiffer rear roll bar - higher front tyre profile - lower rear tyre profile - increase -ve camber on front - reduce -ve camber on rear

Hate to be a party pooper, but has anyone bothered to consult the club's constitution. According to that doco, particularly Rule 8, elections are held at the AGM (ANNUAL General Meeting), while this thread is proposing an EGM (EXTRAORDINARY General Meeting). Also, Rule 8 specifies nominations be with the secretary at least 21 days prior to the meeting, duly seconded and agreed to by the nominee.

You have more than likely warped the head. It will require a new head - DO NOT get this one shaved flat, toss it and get a new one.

When I had my RB25DET dynoed, it would ping its brains out, and no amount of timing would solve it. Then the dyno owner (not the operator) commented that RBs need FUEL to prevent detonation.

Did you change the front diff to match the rear ratio?

Looking for a new tow car for my mowing gear - thinking 2000 Pathfinder w/VG33E. Is this engine any good? reliable, economical, E10 compatible, etc.

What happens if you then swap #1 #2 coils? Does the failure follow the coil ie now #2 is failing, or does #1 continue to fail?

Rear rotor incorporates the handbrake. Did they engage the handbrake before starting this procedure? Otherwise, they might need to loosen off the handbrake shoes. Also, I recall sometimes the disk requires pushing off using the threaded 8mm(?) holes in the hat of the rotor.

Have you considered that the larger caliper might have moved the connection further from the bodywork? Are the calipers mounted on the right (correct) sides?

I use a Wolf (wolfems.com.au). They have plug'n'play units to suit various Skylines, and the units are quite sophisticated in their features.

TRS 4-point detachable racing harness, complete with eye-bolts and reinforcing plates. good condition. (Melb west) $100 + postage

It was good enough for the Nissan / Gibson Motorsport cars to retain it. ATTESSA doesn't just work off wheelspin.

Welsh plugs are best replaced rather than "sealanted". And from my experience, do all of them at the same time - it's not like they are expensive. Sure as you get it all back together after fixing a leaking one, another will start to leak.

This is the last attempt to sell this engine. If I still have it in my possession on Jan 31, then the scrap metal man will be getting a call on Feb 1. R32 GTS4 block, w/crank $150 Set 6 balanced std conrods $100 Inlet manifold $50 Exhaust manifold $40 $200 for the lot Modified T3/T4 turbo $150 All located Melbourne west

I sold my house recently, and have been renting it back off the new owners. It was understood that the lease was short term, and I would be required to vacate before Xmas. I have been looking since early November, but no-one will rent me a house for myself and my four "children" (Jack Russell and 3 cats). I would be extrememly grateful if someone on the forums could: a) rent me a house (best case) - 3br, double garage, to $320/wk b) rent me (and the animals) a room short term until I can find somewhere of my own. Needs to be in the Wyndham area. TIA

The PCV only opens under vacuum, so it has no adverse effects on the engine if it inhales oily air at idle. If it did, the engineers would have found another way to achieve the result, which is to reduce emissions of engine gasses to the atmosphere. Oil in the intake stream is only a problem under load, because oil is a serious octane reducer. To the OP, if it ain't broke, don't fiddle with it.

I had a similar problem with 260Z stuff in a 240Z. Turned out that a rubber block inside the booster had fallen off its location. I'd start looking there.

There are any number of threads that deal with this problem. First, have you ever had the throttle bodies cleaned around the butterflies? If so, bad luck, you have introduced an air leak that is next to impossible to eliminate. The TPS might not be sending the "throttle closed" signal to the ECU. This problem might also be evident during (upward) gear changes where the engine will tend to hold revs during the shift. To set the idle with the AAC, you need to disconnect the TPS before making adjustments toi the AAC screw.

I think this juddering problem is caused by something stupid like a faulty connection in the TPS - try checking the plug.

auto or manual?