blind_elk

Plug'n'Play is available, too.

There isn't an "all the above" option. Probably have to be idiots in autos who don't know how to control the throttle when moving off from lights. Had 2 this morining - as I'm changing 1 -> 2, not going real quick, look in the mirror and car behind is gaining at a rate of knots. Stupid thing is, they generally do it at the next set of lights! Then ignorant sh1ts who think they can just drive to the front of a long right-turn lane (High St onto Monash Fwy) and expect to be let in, despite the rest of us have had the patience to join the end of the queue. Then probably the nits who let them in!

L20ET is already compressing at 7.5 - how much lower do you think it needs to go? Couple of things I know about the engine: a RB20 / RB25 turbo bolts straight on, so there is potential to get something extra out of the engine. It will probably tolerate some extra C/R, so fitting flat-top pistons may be possible. Std) L24E has tiny ports in the head. And a tiny combustion chamber. It might go better with a 240Z head (larger ports, larger chamber - is that the N47?), and 240Z flat-top pistons. L28ET is probably the way to go. If you want forgies for the L20 (or any other engine), talk to Bill at Australian Precision Engine Parts in Melbourne (03-98871299) Hope that helps some.

If the battery has "died" several times, then it's just about past its used-by date. Get a new battery.

And the speedo / HICAS problem is probably a broken speedo cable.

What do you mean by "lightness"? Are you referring to how easy it is to depress the clutch pedal? If so, then that is related to the spring tension and leverage ratio of the "fingers" on the pressure plate vs the clamping pressure of the pressure plate. I believe they only machine microns from the surface where the driven plate contacts the flywheel. So the loss of material would be insignificant relative to the thickness of the driven plate (your 8-button thing)

Yes, with wider rear tyres you will have more grip - AT THE REAR. So you will have relatively less grip at the front. So you increase the risk of understeer.

Yes, it's OK as a general guide. I found a couple of technical errors:calculation of wheel offset cam timing for RB26DETT They always start me wondering about what other stuff might be incorrect. But it was a lot better (accuracy-wise) than the JPNZ R32 Engine Manual.

Try Pitstop Bookshop in Perth - www.pitstop.net.au

Then what are you prepared to pay?

Your brake pads are down to the "wear markers".

The tyre manufacturer should have recommendations for pressures to run with the particular tyres you have. Then add 2psi to the fronts.

I have a set - they have tyres, but I guess I can get them removed. $600 without tyres. There's a pic over in my gallery area.

If Snowy reckons he takes a "L", then I guess the same for me. Hopefully just sent some money across.

Is the CAS aligned correctly. It should only fit one way because of the half-moon keys in the CAS and the camshaft. Often, the camshaft key snaps off, permitting the CAS to align only on the teeth.

Maybe try replacing the water temp sensor first (much cheaper than a PFC). If that sensor is not working, the ECU thinks the engine is still cold, and delivers much more fuel than for normal operating temps.

"Eastern Suburb" of where?And I expect they would only allow you to "borrow" them.

MORE if it rains - the extra pressure holds the tread open so it can disperse the water better.

Does the "window" still go up and down? Try "opening" / "closing" it, it may remove the obstruction that is locking the door. Have you tried opening from the inside?

ECU doesn't supply power directly to the ignitor - it switches a relay that powers the coils.

Unless you are looking for masses of kW, stick with stock pistons - just my experience.

The report was simply that they were pedestrians. There was nothing in the report to suggest that the driver was in any way "at fault" - but as I said, the degree of damage indicates (to me, at least) that the car was travelling at some speed. The windscreen was almost caved in, and the leading edge of the bonnet had been pushed back and up. I don't believe there is any hard evidence to indicate any act of idiocy or otherwise on the part of either party involved. It may be possible to inflict that level of damage to a R32 travelling at the speed limit. So let's not start slamming the driver for what happened. And actually, it was only the mother who died (my bad).

A woman and her 12 yo daughter were struck and killed by a Skyline (probably GT-R) overnight in Melbourne. There was a considerable amount of damage to the Skyline, so I suspect the driver was hoofing it. I truly hope it was not one of ours.

CENTRETDC is when the piston is right at the upper most point of travel up and down the cylinder. If you now can't work out the whole meaning...

This one gets asked at least once each month. Surely you can remember seeing a similar question / answer in the past 4 weeks? And this one has been asked very recently And this one gets asked / answered about every week! As does this one.[rant]It's not that it's a spelling contest, it's just that some of us actually learned, and remember, how to spell - and we don't have time to sit around for half an hour trying to decipher some crappy word that the writer has been too lazy to look up in a dictionary when they aren't certain of the spelling. Or to sit around for an hour to decipher some crappy sentence when the writer has no idea how to contrstruct a sentence or use punctuation.[/rant]