blind_elk

Could also be the TPS - again, gazillion posts.

Renault had a problem with one model - it used a security card and a push-button starter. But once the engine was started, you could remove the card (the "key", so to speak). That had to get a whole bunch of cars modified before they could be registered anywhere in Australia.As saff_cossie said, why do you need one? If you simply drive sensibly for even 1km before stopping, it's not a problem. The race Sierras used to simply do a cool down lap of Sandown, pul into the garage and turn the engine off - no TTs there!

Not sure about the shudder, but the idle sounds like a problem with the AAC valve. It's been covered a gazillion times - go searching.

Last time I had a problem anywhere like that, I think it was a dead diode in the alternator. Basically, it's taking 2-3000 rpm to generate enough current / voltage to "switch" one of the output diodes. Before that, everything is running off the battery, and Skylines are extremely susceptible to low voltages.

Plug'n'Play is available, too.

There isn't an "all the above" option. Probably have to be idiots in autos who don't know how to control the throttle when moving off from lights. Had 2 this morining - as I'm changing 1 -> 2, not going real quick, look in the mirror and car behind is gaining at a rate of knots. Stupid thing is, they generally do it at the next set of lights! Then ignorant sh1ts who think they can just drive to the front of a long right-turn lane (High St onto Monash Fwy) and expect to be let in, despite the rest of us have had the patience to join the end of the queue. Then probably the nits who let them in!

L20ET is already compressing at 7.5 - how much lower do you think it needs to go? Couple of things I know about the engine: a RB20 / RB25 turbo bolts straight on, so there is potential to get something extra out of the engine. It will probably tolerate some extra C/R, so fitting flat-top pistons may be possible. Std) L24E has tiny ports in the head. And a tiny combustion chamber. It might go better with a 240Z head (larger ports, larger chamber - is that the N47?), and 240Z flat-top pistons. L28ET is probably the way to go. If you want forgies for the L20 (or any other engine), talk to Bill at Australian Precision Engine Parts in Melbourne (03-98871299) Hope that helps some.

If the battery has "died" several times, then it's just about past its used-by date. Get a new battery.

And the speedo / HICAS problem is probably a broken speedo cable.

What do you mean by "lightness"? Are you referring to how easy it is to depress the clutch pedal? If so, then that is related to the spring tension and leverage ratio of the "fingers" on the pressure plate vs the clamping pressure of the pressure plate. I believe they only machine microns from the surface where the driven plate contacts the flywheel. So the loss of material would be insignificant relative to the thickness of the driven plate (your 8-button thing)

Yes, with wider rear tyres you will have more grip - AT THE REAR. So you will have relatively less grip at the front. So you increase the risk of understeer.

Yes, it's OK as a general guide. I found a couple of technical errors:calculation of wheel offset cam timing for RB26DETT They always start me wondering about what other stuff might be incorrect. But it was a lot better (accuracy-wise) than the JPNZ R32 Engine Manual.

Try Pitstop Bookshop in Perth - www.pitstop.net.au

Then what are you prepared to pay?

Your brake pads are down to the "wear markers".

The tyre manufacturer should have recommendations for pressures to run with the particular tyres you have. Then add 2psi to the fronts.

I have a set - they have tyres, but I guess I can get them removed. $600 without tyres. There's a pic over in my gallery area.

If Snowy reckons he takes a "L", then I guess the same for me. Hopefully just sent some money across.

Is the CAS aligned correctly. It should only fit one way because of the half-moon keys in the CAS and the camshaft. Often, the camshaft key snaps off, permitting the CAS to align only on the teeth.

Maybe try replacing the water temp sensor first (much cheaper than a PFC). If that sensor is not working, the ECU thinks the engine is still cold, and delivers much more fuel than for normal operating temps.

"Eastern Suburb" of where?And I expect they would only allow you to "borrow" them.

MORE if it rains - the extra pressure holds the tread open so it can disperse the water better.

Does the "window" still go up and down? Try "opening" / "closing" it, it may remove the obstruction that is locking the door. Have you tried opening from the inside?

ECU doesn't supply power directly to the ignitor - it switches a relay that powers the coils.

Unless you are looking for masses of kW, stick with stock pistons - just my experience.