blind_elk

Probably lots of people could tell you - after they did a SEARCH

Have you had the injectors cleaned recently? Have you tried heel-toeing on the downchange? Maybe it doesn't like ingesting hot air from the engine bay.

Really doesn't matter how hot you have the trigger (within reason) - You only want to prevent the coolant from boiling. 90 is fine as a switch-on temperature. The switch in the radiator switches a relay in the block immediately behind the battery. You tap into the OUTPUT of that relay to TRIGGER a relay that powers your new thermo fan.

Roll / sway bars have nothing whatsoever to do with traction. Roll bars stop body roll through corners. As a rule-of-thumb, stiffer front roll bars increase UNDERSTEER, stiffer rear roll bars increase OVERSTEER. The stiffness of a roll bar is also proportional to the diameter of metal in the bar. So a 27 mm HOLLOW bar may be lighter (less stiff) than a 24 mm solid bar. I found this when I replaced a 25mm (hollow) rear bar on my GTS4 with a 24mm SOLID bar. You need to check all the properties of the bars in question, and decide what you want the bar to do, before it can be determined which bar is best. That said, Whiteline has done a heap of work working out the best combo of bars (and other suspension components) for these cars under Australian conditions.

No, we just said that to try and scare you. Looks like it worked!

Use the <Search> button

Nissans are extremely susceptible to voltages. Bad voltage equates to bad running.Get the alternator tested; if it's a dud, replace it.

Nothing you can do about it. It's the sound of the injector solenoid engaging and disengaging.

Have you tried cleaning it? I think there's a 'how to' somewhere on here.

1) Isn't the pin the eye mounts on "tapered". That should match the taper in the rubber. But presumably it should face in the direction that makes it easiest to get at to adjust (inwards?) 2) You will have to lever down the swing arm - use a shovel handle or similar as a lever (I usually use a sledgehammer).

Get a leak-down test.

A 35 profile tyre on 20" rims on a Skyline is FAARR TOOO TAALLL.As a rule-of-thumb, for each 1" wheel diameter change, the profile changes by 10. Most Skylines run a 17" rim with a 45 profile tyre. You are running a 20" rim - 3" bigger - which means you should only be running a 15 profile tyre. That basically amounts to "wrap a strip of rubber around the rim, and call it a tyre". With such a small sidewall, the car will handle like crap. And a car that doesn't handle is a car that isn't safe. An 18" rim is the biggest I would fit to a Skyline (I actually run 17s).

Did the cams get aligned correctly? Did he reset the timing correctly?

The really (stupidly) obvious question - the fuel hoses are connected to the rail correctly?

I know you've sorted it yourself, but I thought I would add that ordinarily it's grounded via one of the bolts that holds the ignitor module in place.

Those are 2 different measurements. BACKSPACE is the actual distance from the inner rim of the wheel to the mounting face. OFFSET is the distance from the (vertical) centre of the rim to the mounting face.BACKSPACE is always +ve. OFFSET can be +ve or -ve (Skylines, and most modern cars, run +ve offset). (PS, it's BRAKES, not BREAKS!)

The fan is a power consumer, not a power generator. If you can't detect any power at either terminal, then there is a problem elsewhere that is preventing the delivery of current to the fan motor.Try applying direct battery power across the terminals of the fan motor. Also, this fan is controlled by the thermal switch in the bottom tank of the radiator - check it is working.

Wolf also does a PnP, and it uses a MAP sensor.

Silver barrel, basically located under the brake master cylinder.

Sorry, my bad. It's the voltage regulator (built into the alternator) that is kaput if the voltage output increases with revs. Probably just as easy to replace the alternator.

I managed to find one at Central Motor Wreckers in Ballarat - $4G, engine and (auto) gearbox only. All-up cost was around $8G, after converting the engine to accept manual gearbox, and adding Wolf 3D ECU. The Stagea runs 4.083 diff ratios - it is relatively easy to swap your current diff (crown wheel AND pinion gear) into the Stagea housing. I eventually changed to the Stagea ratios front and rear, because the RB25DET had so much more torque that I didn't need the standard (R32) 4.375 ratios

If the replacement ECU you install is a plug'n'play, then it should be OK. If you use a full re-wire unit, then it requires an aftermarket "black box" to get ATTESSA to work. I had to do this when I installed a WOLF in my GTS4 - I used a full re-wire (later found I could have used a GT-R plug'n'play) - so needed the Wolf black box to get ATTESSA back.

I did this conversion for my R32 GTS4 - I chose to use the Stagea engine. It is highly doubtful that a RB25DET (RWD) block can have a AWD sump bolted to it.

When you test the voltage output of the alternator, you are presumably testing at idle. Try raising revs to, say , 2000 and measure output. It should remain the same voltage (ie around 14V). If it increases, then the alternator is kaput - it is overcharging the battery, and overcharged batteries don't hold charge.

Lights, indicators are controlled by their own switches (no "ECU", so to speak). I'm not sure which way it works, but there is some reliance between ECU and tacho. The only thing I can say for sure is that the ATTESSA ECU needs an input from the TPS, via the main ECU.