blind_elk

If the new exhaust is not a turbo-back one, then keep looking. It is important to get the gasses away from the turbo as quickly as possible; opening the exhaust up after the cat does not achieve that end. You don't need a pod; you will start feeding hot air into the engine, and the last thing a turbo needs to see is hot intake air. The factory air box flows quite well, in my experience. The problem is in the stupidly small (therefore restrictive) snorkel mounted on the underside of the LH headlamp. Remove the headlamp so you can remove and chuck the snorkel.

You will probably find that the number of teeth on the belt is not an even multiple of the teeth on the cam wheels. All that is important is that the marks on the cam wheels and the mark on the crank pulley line up at TDC #1.

The factory ones need to be pressed out. And I think you will find that your new bushes will need to be pressed in.

The gearset from a Stagea appears to be the best you can get - 4.083:1 . Mine now cruises 2900 @ 110. The crown wheel and pinion can be fairly easily swapped onto the R32's diff centre.

Order the new rotors as "blanks", then have them drilled to suit the stud pattern. Alternately, buy non-slotted 4-stud ones and have them slotted (I know of one place in Melbourne that can do this for you).

AFAIK, it's not a stone guard. My experience suggests it is purely to assist with airflow under the car which assists with airflow through the radiator.

Thinking about it, undo from the ends and work towards the middle - what I initially posted is the tightening sequence. The middle three are probably to access the water or oil galleries through the head during manufacturing.

Never had any problems either. I've had a patrol car follow me off from a set of lights. There is no way they could tell I am as old as I am - I simply behaved myself (I knew they were there). I'm convinced that all the complaints about "I wasn't doing anything" are a figment of the poster's imagination - the police don't nab you simply for the fun of it, you must have been doing something to attract their attention.

You said "the restrictions only apply to the stock version of the car". So, my initial comment still applies - if you modify the factory engine so it exceeds the limits, then it has the same effect as if the vehicle was manufactured that way. (perhaps there should have been an "and" at the start of the 3rd paragraph) Obviously, if you are modifying the RB20DET, then it will be harder to detect, but the rules are still applicable.

There are 14(?) bolts with allen key heads - 10mm, available from any auto parts retailer. The bolts are accessible without removing the camshafts. The 3 down the middle have nothing to do with holding the head onto the block. There are also 3 small 10mm head bolts, 2 at the rear, one at the front (driver's side). Undo from the middle outwards, alternating front and rear. ie: 7/8, 5/6, 9/10 ...

Consider yourself corrected.If you modify a vehicle so it exceeds the limits, then it has the same effect as if the vehicle were manufactured that way. You can't fit a RB26DETT to a R32 GTSt and claim the "factory" figure is within the limits. You can't fit a LS1 into a HG Holden, and claim the "factory" figure is within the limits.

I have a front bar, in Melbourne. It has a FRP lip extension that is in 2 pieces. The main part is intact, and has been cut out to suit a FMIC. If you want it, come and collect it. (PM for more info)

How old is the oil? What brand / grade? It sounds like it's going ultra thin at idle when hot.

I've got some 40thou ACLs w/rings - $1000 delivered.

EUCALYPTUS

How do you know it's not working then? Have you checked the warning lamp in instrument cluster is working?

All the crankcase ventilation stuff is different. I guess you could make appropriate mods to handle this. And the valley cover bolts are a different pattern - so you would need to have the RB20 cover (assuming you are running the cover).

The pads should have a wear marker attached - when the brakes start making a horrible scraping noise, then you know it's close to "new pads" time.

I'm pretty certain Maltech in Geelong make the only ADR approved braided brake lines. The "ADRness" is related to the sheathing around where the hose joins the steel fitting. There was a group buy, probably 18 months ago - about $350 a set (F / R) IIRC.

You can't - they're mirror images of each other.

The pistons fit in the bores (cylinders) - so they aren't actually "bored out". It depends on how much damage you might have done to the cylinder after you did whatever you did at the time as to whether or not you need to bore the cylinders. That then determines what size pistons you need to fit - but they always bore the cylinders by a fixed amount (they can leave them standard, or they can bore them 0.020" / 0.5 mm bigger or they can bore them 0.040" / 1 mm bigger). You should be able to re-use your conrods; bearings, from memory, are a bit over $100 (per set). If you are interested, I happen to have a set of ACL forged 0.040" / 1mm oversize pistons for sale - PM me for details.

Or use the cooling system bleed valve (located near the front of the plenum, if you had SEARCHed).

It's getting old and less able to keep pumping fuel at full pressure. Is the pod shielded? Without shielding, you are simply sucking on hot air from the engine bay, then heating it some more through the 13psi boost you are applying. Regardless of the size of the IC, you are never going to cool the air down to "reasonable" temperature.The dipstick popped out because you (at a minimum) smashed a ring land on the piston. This allows the pressurised air/fuel mixture to get past the rings and pressurise the sump; the easiest place for the pressure to go is out the dipstick hole, along with all the oil.

Firstly, visualise where the CAS needs to be to align if the half-moon key was still attached to the cam. Alternately, the CAS also aligns via a set of teeth on the CAS shaft and the cam, and the engine will only start with the CAS in one position. Simply move the CAS shaft by one tooth and try to start the engine. Once the engine starts, use a timing light to set the timing correctly.

I believe the floor pans are different ( to accommodate the transfer case) so probably won't fit. (pretty certain it's been covered before). Hope you're not thinking of destroying a perfectly good AWD box so it will only work RWD.