blind_elk

Clean the posts, then make sure the terminals are tight on the posts.Won't fix it immediately, but should minimise future occurrences.

Where are you located? I have one - in Melbourne

S2 RB25DET coils are different, in that they have the ignitor in-built. RB20s ,and probably S1 RB25, run a separate ignitor module.

Sounds like what you actaully have is an oil-air separator. Because the rocker covers are connected by a single hose, it is only necessary to plumb one of the rockers to the separator. I would suggest the one that currently connects back to the inlet side of the turbos. Basically replace that hose with plumbing to the separator.

You really only need any sort of fan for when the car is stationary or moving slowly, which can result in a slight increase in coolant temperature. At general road speeds, the movement of the car creates sufficient airflow through the radiator to control the coolant temperature. A single 14" or 16" fan should be sufficient for the job.

If you read the instructions that come with the fan, I'm pretty sure they will recommend mounting in front and pushing air through, rather than mounting behind and pulling air. The main reason for mounting behind the radiator is that there is rarely any space in front, what with an A/C condensor and maybe a FMIC.

Ordinarily, bent valves would give 0 compression (I've seen an engine that had zero compression in 1 cylinder because the tappet was too tight on the top of the valve; set tappet clearance -> 180 psi compression!). I've also seen an engine that stripped the teeth off the belt so the cam didn't turn, and none of the valves came into contact with a piston! If the cams are turning, then the engine is cranking. First thing is to get a leakdown test. Next would be to pull the head (it's going to have to be done anyway, even if it's a blown head gasket). If it IS valves, they can be repaired and the head replaced. If not, you can still pull the engine out for either a rebuild or a replacement.

I've STILL got the set I replaced on my 32.

Why not simply tap a hole into the cross-over pipe, and screw the temp probe directly, rather than through an adapter?

Can I remind you that if you mod a car up to a point where it exceeds the power / weight rules, then the power / weight rules become applicable. You end up in the same boat as if you had the R33 or the GT-R.Yes, it's harder to be detected, but the police are getting pretty smart when it comes to imports and mods.

The main problem is that it will mask a true oil pressure problem ie no oil pressure.Just replace the damn thing. They aren't really that expensive (and a lot cheaper than rebuilding an engine that has spun a bearing).

They are a straight replacement - just happen to have some slots machined into the surface, that's all.I don't think bigger rotors will necessarily shorten your stopping distance - after all, its still 1400 kg of car you're trying to stop. Bigger rotor means more leverage, means less work to stop, means less heat.

It's a warning light - over to you! Do a search for how to do the HICAS diagnostic test. lunatic - only R32s use the P/S fluid to work HICAS - R33s are electric.

Of course it will. All it's got to do is open and close the injector.Problem is that the RB25 injector flows more fuel for the same opening time, so the engine is basically flooding. VVT = Variable Valve Timing - look for a module on the front of the inlet cam, and a solenoid sticking out the side of the head (at the front).

Before changing rotors, I would recommend getting some decent hi-temp pads and some braided brake lines as a better solution to any braking problems.

Try Whiteline (they seem to only have a camber kit that uses urethane bushes), or Noltec (probably the same).

If your RB25 doesn't have VVT, then you can get the RB20 ECU re-programmed to suit. Otherwise you will need something like a PFC, or Wolf make a plug'n'play unit for the R32. You can add in the wiring for the VVT stuff.

That's exactly the type they are currently short of

NDSOC (Nissan Datsun Sports Owners Club) is instigating a blood drive to get members to become blood donors. As such, they are extending an invitation to like-minded people (Nissan owners) to join them in this worthwhile endeavour. At the moment, the plan is to book out the Southbank Blood Donor Centre one Sunday morning (probably mid-June). Please PM me if you are interested in joining in. Some information to help you decide: It’s not such an imposition as some might think. Once every 3 months, you are asked to give up about 1 hour of your time. The donation generally takes between 8 and 12 minutes and you usually donate 470 ml of blood. The rest of the time is spent with paperwork, and recovery; not unlike a sprint meeting at Winton or Sandown, really. Oh yes, the needle. It really is no big deal (it is, it’s HUGE!)- pinch the inside of your elbow to feel what it is like. Giving blood is a great thing to do. By making a blood donation, you are not only helping save the lives of people you may never meet; you’re also doing yourself a good turn. Some studies have shown that regular blood donation can help prevent the build-up of iron in the body over time, reducing the strain this places on major organs including the heart. And regular acts of kindness, like giving blood, are good for anyone’s heart. There are many different uses for your blood donation. Your blood might be made into lifesaving or life improving medication for people with cancer, anaemia, haemophiliacs or ill newborn babies just to name a few. It could also be used for emergency or elective surgery and help people with organ or heart diseases, burn victims or accident victims. By separating whole blood into its components it is possible to use a single donation for the treatment of several patients. Each donation you give is very precious; it helps not only people in emergencies but also helps those who rely on regular transfusions to survive. To be eligible to become a blood donor, you must be in general good health, weigh between 45kg - 120kg and be between 16 and 70 years of age. If you are between 16 and 18 years you will also need parental consent. So, basically, if you have a CAMS licence, then you probably qualify. Each time you make a donation, you get your blood pressure and haemoglobin (an indication of your iron level) checked. This is an easy way to keep track of your health as any changes to your blood pressure or haemoglobin are picked up during the screening process. After the donation, relax and enjoy the refreshments on offer and remember to take it easy for the next 24 hours. Drink lots of fluid and your blood will be fully restored after 48 hours. It is recommended that donors avoid vigorous use of their arm for a few hours after donating. Additionally, alcohol should be avoided for at least eight hours.

How about only posting the problem in ONE area! Have a look at your other one (agrees with Merlin).

Sounds like a wheel bearing. It might simply need tightening up, but if you need to replace it, I would strongly recommend replacing the other side at the same time.

You may well have damaged the head gasket. Get a compression test and a leak-down test done on the engine.

The top one screws into the bottom one.

I've got the whole foglamp assembly (pair) - $80 and they're yours.

Bloody SOFTY!!!!