blind_elk

There certainly were R33 GTS4s; All were N/A. (DET version would have been too close in performance to a GT-R)

What's wrong with the exhaust that's on it now that you have to replace it? Also, never understood the desire / requirement to have SS exhaust piping. I ran plain steel piping on my Zed for 10 year or more (daily driver, running L20ET), and the piping is still intact and shows no signs of rusting through (more than I can say for the Zed!).

You might need to open up the speedo unit - check for a broken tooth or 2 on the odometer gear drive.

Check the connection onto the TPS. I don't know/understand why/how they are related, but they seem to be. I had a similar problem with my GTS4, and re-connecting a partially disconected TPS solved it.

I think the digital ones have the mileage stored in the ECU. So, I guess, if you got an ECU from a lower km car... Japan has a bloody good public transport system, so people don't generally need to drive all that much.

If you want to be sure, get some time on a dyno (half hour should be more than enough). Do you have proper cold air feed for the K&N? This is the biggest risk to get knocking; the engine is hauling in hot air from the engine bay, and hot air is bad air for a turbo. The ECU diagnosis only reports faults; unless there is an actual fault in the knock sensors, the ECU will report "all clear".

If the engine didn't have oil pressure, I'm sure it would be "dead" in next to no time. Check the oil level on the dipstick. If it's OK, then it's likely the engine will have oil pressure. It is (hopefully) a dead sender. Ordinarily, you should have quite high oil pressure when starting from cold.

So good that now every bloody car thief who frequents these forums knows to carry around a spare fuse as the first remedy to pinch a car that won't start. (which is why I have never publicly announced my secret anti-theft weapon). You obviously didn't read my previous post - thieves could care less about flashing red LEDs.

The A/C fan is controlled by the thermatic switch in the bottom tank of the radiator. It only activates when the coolant temp gets too high. Under normal circumstances, the standard engine fan is able to maintain sufficient airflow to keep the A/C radiator cool. However, if you have the A/C re-gassed with the modern stuff (R134a ?), get the fan re-wired to come on with the A/C.

All the time these forums have been around, how come no-one ever bothered to ask these questions? SEARCH - for threads involving SydneyKid, I'm sure the answers are in there somewhere. One conclusion you should reach from the information in all those threads - what is legal and what is sensible aren't necessarily the same.

The radiator place should have been able to do all that; and with both tanks removed. It should only need a re-core if you have corrosion. Get the radiator place to do a proper "remove end tanks, ream cores" on it. If you can still get the engine up to temp without a thermostat, then you may still have a problem. My tame mechanic also recommends to use a genuine Nissan thermostat.

I trust you are on a racetrack when this happens. Cutting the wire doesn't affect HICAS - the feed to the ECU branches off the HICAS circuit.

My experience has generally been that they don't want the car, they only want what's in it. Having an alarm didn't prevent them sitting inside and stealing the radio; so now I have installed one of those Jayco Screecher alarms (110dB @ 2kHz) - it certainly reminds them that they haven't been invited into the car.

I would recommend the LMM (Molybdenum-based, black goop) for the shaft; light smear. The thrust bearing should be pre-greased.

Well, they bolt straight into RB20s, don't see why they wouldn't do the same in a 25. It's still debateable whether or not you need to convert to the RB26's solid lifters.

Well, I reckon this is your problem - NO F***IN' BRAINS! I doubt the majority of members care for, or condone, this behaviour. So go pay a mechanic a load to diagnose and fix whatever ails your car.

1. Mods have very little to do with the safe PSI limit. It is predominantly a function of the construction of the turbo itself. The factory turbo is built with a ceramic turbine wheel, and it is this component that is the "weakest link". As you increase boost, you increase the rpm at which the wheel spins. At a certain point, the ceramic unglues itself from the shaft and shatters. Best case is it sprays the front of any following car; worst case, it gives your engine's cylinders a terrific hone. 2. All you are doing is increasing MAXIMUM boost. It should still cut in at the same point, with the same "kick in the bum".

I've recently changed the diffs in my R32 GTS4, so now the speedo is out (reads less than actual). I figure the drive pinion from a GT-R gearbox will get it close to correct. Anyone got one they're willing to part with? PM if you can help me out.

If there's one more likely to go, it would be the bushes in the upper control arm.

Talk to Craig at Trackside Tyres in Bayswater.

In the 4 or 5 years this forum has been active, how come no-one ever thought to ask that question??

If there wasn't oil coming out the filler plug, then you don't have enough oil in there.

Won't be the inhibitor - all that does is prevent the engine starting if the trans is in gear. Have you checked the transmission fluid level?

The engine will warm up quicker if you drive the car. And you might as well be getting somewhere while you're burning all that fuel. I climb in the car, fire up the engine, reverse out the driveway and on my way. Keep it under about 3000 rpm until the needle starts to move. Cooling down - forget timers; the best timer is inside your head. Just drive sensibly for the last 1km or so before you reach your destination, and you can pretty safely simply switch off the engine.

Been there, done that (RB25DET into R32 GTS4). RB25DET certainly worth the effort. I did just an engine upgrade, and aftermarket ECU (Wolf). But I would recommend a half-cut, particulary if the RB25 has VVT.