blind_elk

How about these: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/photopost.../500/ppuser/269 And they just happen to be for sale.

Have you had the rear end aligned after changing a major component of the rear suspension?

Isn't that what the road toll is for!?!?!?I still don't get how I can be driving along a straight piece of multi-lane, dual carriage highway, and still see several flower bouquets where people have died in crashes. Too many people just don't pay attention to the task at hand when they are out driving. I'm pretty sure that the statistics point to Australia in genaral, and Victoria in particular, as having one of the lowest per capita road tolls in the world. Although I still don't believe it bears any relation to driving skill and standards.

There's a lever beside the catch that sets the boot in "valet mode", so you can't open with the cable.

I was going to volunteer until you threatened: I'll be there, just can't guarantee 8:15am startability (I'm getting old, and I can't keep up with you young'ns all night Friday night either).

What better reason could there possibly be?I think you will find that just about every state's "RTA" will require that the tyres on each axle MUST be the same (construction, tread pattern, size). They can be different between axles (ie front and rear sets can be different).

I'm led to believe that you cannot get rebuild kits for Nissan Turbos. Garrett (I think they are the manufacturer) does not sell them.

Seems the search engine does a bit of sucking of its own as well.1. Remove electrical plug 2. Remove big hose. 3. Remove 4 x 10mm head bolts 4. Carefully remove AAC from manifold. Gasket may be a bit stuck. 5. Remove 2 Phillips head screws. Pull body away. Can't remember exactly from here, other than its pretty self-evident what goes where. Spray heaps of Car-B-Clean down all the channels and holes. Blow dry. As they say in the classics, replacement is a reverse of removal. Might need a tad of silicone sealant on the mounting face to the manifold. There is a screw in the base for adjusting the base setting.

Have to disagree. These are symptoms of the heat-stressed ignitor module. Give-away is the "wont start untill its cooled down for about 5/10 minutes ". Swap with a good one.

There is a 4-door version of the R32. Unless you and the front seat passenger are very short, or the rear seat passengers are like twigs, there is no such thing as rear leg room in a R32. The R32 was not available with a RB25DET, although that engine is a popular upgrade. Fuel economy around town appears to be around the 400-450 km range. You'll obviously do better on the highway.

ATTESSA needs a TPS signal, otherwise it goes into "error" mode. Advanced Engine Management (Wolf 3D) has a "black box" add-on to provide the signal to the ATTESSA.

If you had to make that adjustment / modification, then I reckon the dizzy's drive shaft is a tooth out of kilter.

Can you swap the drive shafts left-2-right? See if that causes the sound to come from the left. That would start pointing the finger at the CV joint (which is my guess, regardless).

Not arguing that. Just you need to ensure that air goes through the radiator, not out under the car. When I had a 16" DC thermo, I could get the fan to switch on on a slight uphill on the highway on a 23 C day. The engine had seriously overheated during a track day at Winton (25 C) - within 1 lap the temp gauge was off the scale. I replaced the factory fan, and left the tell-tale light in place - 4 laps of QR (30 C) and the tell-tale lit up on the last run into the finish line. Figured my engine wasn't worth that much risk. That's because the engine is parallel to the radiator - the front of the engine isn't facing the radiator for a mechanical fan to work!!

My experience is you probably need to do a lot of extra engineering to block off all routes except through the radiator for the cooling air. In my experience, the risk of overheating / cooking the engine is not worth the couple of extra kW you gain.

Not EVERYONE! My last contribution to the state's coffers was back in 2003, and I don't remember the one before that, so I probably have them all available.But I'll still be watching.

Absolutely no idea what driving your mum's Magna would feel like! Sounds like either the magnet drive on the back of the speedo is catching on the input, or the counter-spring is dying.

Melbourne is a big place - not much point recommending someone in Frankston if you're in Broadmeadows! Talk to Daniel at DJM Automotive - 9808 2590 - in Burwood.

Don't push boost through the clutch, then it won't slip. Then it will last a bit longer. It's probably a full day job, and the going rate is somewhere around $80/hr.

Loosen off the handbrake shoes. There should be a hole approx 2 cm diameter, might have a rubber grommet in it. Rotate the disc to near "6 o'clock" and there is a cog wheel visible through the hole. Use a screwdriver or similar to rotate the cog (can't recall which direction loosens). If the rotor is a bit stiff, use a long bar between the studs to rotate the the rotor / hub. You will probably still need to use the 2-bolt removal afterwards.

You forgot to mention the 2 million times that it could be the AAV, or the TPS.

Last time I saw an engine filling an oil catch can under boost, turned out one of the pistons had a big hole in it.

Onto the engine lifting bracket, front driver's side. Bolt also holds fuel pipe and manifold heating pipes.

1. As Abo_Bob said, if you are sensible and drive sedately for the last k or so, then you don't require a TT. (The Shell Sierras would only do a "slow" lap of Sandown after practice, then simply pull into the pit garage and switch off the engine, and they had been pushing 3 bar boost through the engine) 2. The engine will warm up quicker if you drive the car. If you are sensible, and don't pull boost during that period, then no damage is likely to occur. Japs generally don't take care of their engines, so it's likely some old engine oil is baked in the turbo bearings.

I have a RB20DET - missing turbo, coilpacks, X-over inlet pipe, diff. In Melbourne. $600 +/- freight ref http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...opic=100325&hl=