blind_elk

I have wired in a Wolf when I fitted the RB25DET. I lost AWD, amongst other things. Found out later that I should have used the GT-R plug'n'play version. Alternatively, Wolf have a "black-box" add-on that willl feed TPS to the ATTESSA ECU. But I still don't have A/C!

I'm sure Zoom are impressed by the breach of their copyright!

You don't turn the dizzy body around, you rotate its drive shaft (shaft is driven by the oil pump, so you need to remove that).Have you checked the ignition timing while cranking the engine?

You sure that's not the previous issue? With a Corolla on the cover?

You'll be able to tell if they need bleeding as you approach the first corner!. Generally, if you disconnect the brake lines anywhere, you will introduce air, and you will have to bleed the brakes.

Are the injectors working? Use a screwdriver as a stethoscope to listen to the injectors while cranking the engine. Is the spark occurring at the right time? Distributor's not 180 deg out, is it?

What drags? It's WRX club sprints, 1st round of SAU championship.

I get mine on subscription. It doesn't seem to be a common mag in many newsagents. Obviously an advantage of subscription is that you get it before newsagents have it on their shelves. I'll be going to Calder tomorrow to watch, I can bring mine if people want a read.

Pitstop Bookshop in Perth (www.pitstop.net.au) Technical Bookshop, Melbourne Nissan Dealer.

James attempting to get a Mexican Wave started (allbeit unsuccessfully)

Last oil change I did took about 7 litres! Eventually found 2 neat little slits in the rubber seal of the filter, which explained why the oil was gushing out.

Had a similar problem when I fitted a new turbo to my RB20 few years ago. Simply went back to the suppliers and got it sorted (bolt was too long, or maybe hole was too short).

Zoom, issue 97 just arrived in today's mail. p90 starts a 4 page spread on the last SAU / WRX DECA.

I'm no auto expert (sports cars don't have autos!), but maybe the box needs a good overhaul.

Yes there is.I recall reading something a while ago that this problem appears if you have re-connected the battery while the wheels were not in the straight ahead position. Just my vague recollection.

The plenum works perfectly well. Some have tried an RB26-style plenum, and had to revert to the original item. You are limited to about 12psi boost before you dramatically increase the risk of either sending the ceramic turbine wheel down the exhaust pipe, or ingesting it and giving the bores a free hone. I've upgraded mine with a RB25DET, and the drivetrain is easily handling the 180kW coming out at all 4 wheels.

Of course they won't line up - the relationship between the teeth and the cam bolts has been dislodged by 2 deg!Simplest is to remove the rocker cover from the exhaust side and manually adjust the cam. You're absolutely sure it'as only -4 deg, not a whole tooth or something, because normally 4 deg doesn't have much effect on the idle quality. And all you are doing by adjusting the cam is moving the power band - you don't necessarily get more power, you just get it at a different rev band.

Don't forget the schedule showing that you couldn't use a taxi. Or the Father / Mother / brother / sister / other rellie / work mate that couldn't give you a ride.Sorry, NO EXCUSE!

You would rather they were in Japanese? How about Arabic? Or Russian? Anyway, I'm going out on a limb here and suggesting that there isn't a Japanese equivalent for "RB 2500 Twin Cam". When there isn't a Japanese equivalent of an English phrase, then the Japanese simply adopt the English phrase.

Can help you out there. It's not the best one on the world, but you are welcome to try it out first. If it works, you'll owe me $50. Bring your car around on Saturday Afternoon and I'll help you fit it.

Try www.whiteline.com.au . There was a SAU group buy at http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...ic=85467&st=140, don't know if it's still going or not. You could also talk with Quadrant Suspensions (www.quadrantsuspensions.com.au) who are Bilstein agents, at least in Victoria.

And the answer is.....SUSPENSION. The car you are bringing in from Japan probably has Japanese after-market suspension - designed for super-smooth Japanese highways. Rip them out and fit a compliant suspension set, one that won't end up rattling the fillings out of your teeth. The profile of the tyre will provide some softness to the overall ride quality, but nothing in comparison to the spring/shocker combo fitted to the car. For wheels, stick to 17" rims. 18s might "look awesome", but they are heavier, and contribute to an increase in unsprung weight of the car; that, in turn, detracts from the handling performance. 17" tyres provide the best combination of performance available for $$ spent. Generally, 235/45x17 tyres are the most affordable of the low-profile performance tyres around, and will fit the majority of aftermarket rims that might be suitable for your car.

Hang on. 5000 rpm, LIGHT throttle. That's "cruising", so you're in 4th or 5th gear; that's got to be approaching 150 kph. In a lower gear, why on earth are you cruising in less than 4th gear?

I'm pretty certain that you must retain some form of "eye-level" brake light if the car was complied with it fitted. But it doesn't have to remain on the rear wing; you could change it to the "inside-the-rear-window" type if you wanted to.

I think the leakdowns are pretty crappy as well. Anyone who can do a leakdown should know how to do a comp test, anyway.