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blind_elk

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Everything posted by blind_elk

  1. blind_elk
    I have the ECU. (P/N 23710 04U60). I'm thinking $300.
  2. blind_elk
    You should be able to do that now. Any automatic can be driven like a manual. Simply shift the selector to the gear you want, the transmission will stay there until you select another gear - that's the way I always drive autos.It's not rocket science.
  3. blind_elk
    Well, did you get it out?
  4. blind_elk
    OK. Got one off the RB25DET I fitted. With bolts and reo plate. $50.
  5. blind_elk
    Doesn't apply to That's just plain f*****g stupid. You can learn to drive in one, do the test in one, but then you wouldn't be allowed to drive it home!!!!Michael_1882, while you're at school this year, you might want to ask one of your teachers to teach you to spell: Trydoesn't mean I'm not allowed to drive and Trythe unfortunate people
  6. blind_elk
    You mean just the "flywheel"?
  7. blind_elk
    1305 621 041 looks a bit like a Bosch P/N. Anyway, have you spoken to Nissan - they can probably tell you what the guy who fitted it had for breakfast that day, so I'm sure they can tell you if the light is still available.
  8. blind_elk
    Stop, you're embarrassing me If Blu-tac doesn't work, something like chewing gum, or maybe dollop of fresh (un-cured) silastic on the wire.
  9. blind_elk
    Piece of Blu-tac on the end of an opened-out (wire) coathanger fed through the globe fitting hole.
  10. blind_elk
    What's a wreaker? EKW are wreckers.
  11. blind_elk
    When you disconnect the tailshaft from the diff, you are supposed to mark the relationship between the 2 bits (don't know why, but the Nissan workshop manual says to do it). Maybe that is why you killed the second one (although I would expect that you would have got vibration or something if they were mis-matched).
  12. blind_elk
    Primary difference wil be the combustion chamber, as the RB20 has a much smaller bore than the RB25.
  13. blind_elk
    I would expect R33 S1 coils to work on a RB20DET, as they both run off an ignitor module. R33 S2 coils have in-built ignitors.
  14. blind_elk
    No. Bilsteins at both ends. But you can continue to use stock springs (at both ends).
  15. blind_elk
    You need a fairly powerful torch to shine down there to light it up. It's located on a flange, just in front of the gearbox bell housing.
  16. blind_elk
    Just taken a couple of shots of my setup, but don't have time to put them up right now. But there appears to be TWO rods involved in holding the bootlid open.
  17. blind_elk
    Sorry for talking technical. The bloody main switch for the headlamps. The switch that moves in a circular, ie rotary, motion to activate and deactivate the electron pulses that cause the lights incandesce.
  18. blind_elk
    Surprisingly, Bilsteins aren't all that expensive. When I bought new shocks, the Bilsteins were actually marginally cheaper than Konis.
  19. blind_elk
    Well, those bars hold my boot open, and I've got the GT-R wing sitting on it. Without the wing fitted, those rods literally throw the boot open. Similar design on 240Zs helps hold that thumping great bonnet open.
  20. blind_elk
    What do you mean by "every now and then"? Under what conditions do you get this "click"? Is it consistent that you will get it under a given circumstance? The LSD is the diff, basically.
  21. blind_elk
    Sure, Pete. Sure!
  22. blind_elk
    Have you played with the rotary switch up on the instrument binacle? That is the most common cause for faulty headlamp operation.
  23. blind_elk
    My bet is the fuel pump is dying, the popping is actually running lean, and the loss of power is knock sensors retarding timing.
  24. blind_elk
    Water pump, in my experience, is normally not a problem in itself (only if it springs a leak through the shaft bearing / seal). First off, I would check, and probably replace, the thermostat; it's probably not opening properly. If that doesn't work, I would suggest a proper cleanout (remove, de-tank, ream cores) on the radiator.
  25. blind_elk
    The R32 doesn't have struts. The bars work like an anti-roll bar in the suspension to try and hold the boot open. Make sure the rods are not broken (it needs to be more than "they don't appear to be broken"), and the ends are properly bolted down. If you have to, climb in the boot with a light and inspect everything.
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