blind_elk

And the answer is.....SUSPENSION. The car you are bringing in from Japan probably has Japanese after-market suspension - designed for super-smooth Japanese highways. Rip them out and fit a compliant suspension set, one that won't end up rattling the fillings out of your teeth. The profile of the tyre will provide some softness to the overall ride quality, but nothing in comparison to the spring/shocker combo fitted to the car. For wheels, stick to 17" rims. 18s might "look awesome", but they are heavier, and contribute to an increase in unsprung weight of the car; that, in turn, detracts from the handling performance. 17" tyres provide the best combination of performance available for $$ spent. Generally, 235/45x17 tyres are the most affordable of the low-profile performance tyres around, and will fit the majority of aftermarket rims that might be suitable for your car.

Hang on. 5000 rpm, LIGHT throttle. That's "cruising", so you're in 4th or 5th gear; that's got to be approaching 150 kph. In a lower gear, why on earth are you cruising in less than 4th gear?

I'm pretty certain that you must retain some form of "eye-level" brake light if the car was complied with it fitted. But it doesn't have to remain on the rear wing; you could change it to the "inside-the-rear-window" type if you wanted to.

I think the leakdowns are pretty crappy as well. Anyone who can do a leakdown should know how to do a comp test, anyway.

I have the ECU. (P/N 23710 04U60). I'm thinking $300.

You should be able to do that now. Any automatic can be driven like a manual. Simply shift the selector to the gear you want, the transmission will stay there until you select another gear - that's the way I always drive autos.It's not rocket science.

Well, did you get it out?

OK. Got one off the RB25DET I fitted. With bolts and reo plate. $50.

Doesn't apply to That's just plain f*****g stupid. You can learn to drive in one, do the test in one, but then you wouldn't be allowed to drive it home!!!!Michael_1882, while you're at school this year, you might want to ask one of your teachers to teach you to spell: Trydoesn't mean I'm not allowed to drive and Trythe unfortunate people

You mean just the "flywheel"?

1305 621 041 looks a bit like a Bosch P/N. Anyway, have you spoken to Nissan - they can probably tell you what the guy who fitted it had for breakfast that day, so I'm sure they can tell you if the light is still available.

Stop, you're embarrassing me If Blu-tac doesn't work, something like chewing gum, or maybe dollop of fresh (un-cured) silastic on the wire.

Piece of Blu-tac on the end of an opened-out (wire) coathanger fed through the globe fitting hole.

What's a wreaker? EKW are wreckers.

When you disconnect the tailshaft from the diff, you are supposed to mark the relationship between the 2 bits (don't know why, but the Nissan workshop manual says to do it). Maybe that is why you killed the second one (although I would expect that you would have got vibration or something if they were mis-matched).

Primary difference wil be the combustion chamber, as the RB20 has a much smaller bore than the RB25.

I would expect R33 S1 coils to work on a RB20DET, as they both run off an ignitor module. R33 S2 coils have in-built ignitors.

No. Bilsteins at both ends. But you can continue to use stock springs (at both ends).

You need a fairly powerful torch to shine down there to light it up. It's located on a flange, just in front of the gearbox bell housing.

Just taken a couple of shots of my setup, but don't have time to put them up right now. But there appears to be TWO rods involved in holding the bootlid open.

Sorry for talking technical. The bloody main switch for the headlamps. The switch that moves in a circular, ie rotary, motion to activate and deactivate the electron pulses that cause the lights incandesce.

Surprisingly, Bilsteins aren't all that expensive. When I bought new shocks, the Bilsteins were actually marginally cheaper than Konis.

Well, those bars hold my boot open, and I've got the GT-R wing sitting on it. Without the wing fitted, those rods literally throw the boot open. Similar design on 240Zs helps hold that thumping great bonnet open.

What do you mean by "every now and then"? Under what conditions do you get this "click"? Is it consistent that you will get it under a given circumstance? The LSD is the diff, basically.

Sure, Pete. Sure!