blind_elk

Had an instance many years ago with a L-series engine. One of the rocker arms had a small -ve clearance, ie too tight, which caused 0 compression. Setting the clearance correctly bumped the com,pression to 170 or so. So, yes, the slightest gap in the valve seat can cause a massive loss of compression.

When you rebuilt the engine, did you also do the head, specifically valve stem seals?

I would have expected that if Timken made a set for the BNR32, then they would be able to find them in their catalogue. They wouldn't need you to give them the specs. In my investigations (see my thread in Suspension), I am lead to understand that genuine Nissan bearings are SKF, and another (don't think it was Timken). You can get the bearings from CBC, or off flea-Bay.

Thanks for the offer. Getting them off eBay - $245 for the pair, delivered.

I've solved it. According to a local Nissan dealer, the AWD versions began in Aug/89, and both the GT-R and GTS4 are the same part#. Only problem is the cost - $200+ EACH

Effectively, Yellow and Red are the same. So, leave the Red "U" tube alone, join the Yellow to one side of the "catch can". If this is a track car, you will need to direct the other side of the "catch can" somewhere other than atmosphere - this gives you an oil / air separator. On the track, they are going to be concerned about the potential to drop oil on the track - a can vented to atmosphere presents such potential. Block off Green - although it really should be connected to a PCV valve. As you will have found in the many threads on the subject, loose pack the can with steel wool to give the oil vapours something to condense on. And because it is dealing with vapours, ie gasses, it doesn't matter a rotund rodent's derriere how high the can is relative to other engine components. The required volume of the catch can depends on the engine capacity. Smaller engines require smaller minimum can sizes, obviously. And the reason you need to separate the oil from the vapours is that any oil that gets into the intake air stream lowers the overall octane rating of the fuel/air mixture, leading to an increased risk of detonation on boost. While you are in there, you will get far better benefit by moving the pod to a place where it can always get cold air. As it is, it is taking in hot air from the engine bay, the turbo is compressing it (making it even hotter), then the IC is trying to cool it back down again.

I have a '89 R32 GTS4, in need of a set of front wheel bearings. All the bearings I can find only cover 6/91 onwards. Anyone able to confirm that the wheel bearings throughtout the R32 AWD range are the same part number, ie is the GT-R same as the the GTS4, and '89 on is the same as 91 on. TIA.

Check that the ignition coil relay - located down by the ECU - is working.

That's not a fault of the gearbox. Its like blaming the kettle for blowing up after you took out the 10A circuit breaker and replaced it with a 6" nail. My point about my "all of 180kW" shows that even with a 50% increase in power going through it, the box still works perfectly.

FWIW, I have a R32 GTS4 running the RB25DET. It was initially tuned to 180kW at all 4 (factory is only around 115 @ all 4). It still runs the factory gearbox. The box is still fine, no synchro problems, no selection problems. In my experience, Nissan gearboxes are TOUGH. Some people will tell you "I just broke my 4th box". I have to say they must really be mistreating the box. Treat the box right, ie no 7k-sidestep-the-clutch-launches, it will treat you right.

Since you've pulled the box out, might as well do the clutch anyway. At least you will know the clutch is new and good.

What ECU are you using in this build?

It will be exactly the same as doing the conversion to the R32 or R33 AWD variants. And those have been done to death.

If you jack the car off the ground and "drive" it, the front wheels should spin if ATTESSA is working. This is because the rear wheels are effectively slipping, so ATTESSA pushes drive to the front wheels. I don't understand why people buy AWD variants, and then disconnect the front drive so they can drift. Surely if you want to drift, for goodness sake get a RWD variant, don't bastardise an AWD variant. /rant

I reckon they are 6x1.0 - I have that tap / die combo in my set.

S1 or S2?

If you still have the original radiator with the A/C overtemp switch, you can hook into the relay to trigger the fans. In the R32, it seems to be set about 3C above thermostat.

Coolant temperature is controlled by the thermostat, NOT by any fans. In cars where I had efficient cooling and electric fans, the fans never turned on as long as the car had reasonable road speed. My R32 is a different matter: I cannot get enough airflow through the radiator to maintain thermostatted temperature, particularly under even moderate load. If more horsepower is made in cooler engines, why do the engines get thermostatted to around 80? Why don't the engineers design the cooling system to run at, say, 40C? But, as long as you can make the air go through the radiator, then electric fans will be fine in a track car. 89CAL - can I suggest the the water pump actually runs slightly faster than the engine, due to the difference in pulley sizes of the crank / pump pulleys.

You mean the gearbox crossmember ? Probably 10x1.25 (might be 12x1.25)

RB20DET, but I don't think it makes a lot of difference which engine.

Pair cam wheels, exhaust side modified to be adjustable. $100

As I suggested in another thread, it's not a good idea to skim a warped head. Only the face gets skimmed, leaving the cam towers in a slight arc (might work for a pushrod engine, but not for OHCs). I believe the correct procedure is to shove it in a press and press it flat again - with heat if necessary. Last head I warped is probably now a boat anchor. I reckon if you measure the head thickness at both ends and in the middle, you will discover that it is thicker in the middle.

Tyres are designed to fit a particular range of rim widths. If you "stretch" a tyre, then the rim is probably not within the design range of the tyre. If you run a tyre on a rim that it is not designed for, you run the risk of having insurance invalidated - car will be unroadworthy. And frankly, any tyre technician who stretches a tyre onto a rim should be shot. Frankly, if you only want, say, a 235 tyre on the car, then get rims designed for a 235 tyre. Don't try and "stretch" them onto a rim designed for a 265 tyre. We'll all be safer on the roads.

Simple solution to that "problem" - when you get back to your pit bay, open the bonnet, let the engine idle until the engine cools. But if you've slowed down on the "cooldown" lap, the movement of the car through the air will cool the engine via the radiato (seemed to work fine for GroupA Sierras after a punishing practice session at Sandown). Which is why thermos can be set to turn on quite high (mid 90s, even) - they do not need to run just because the engine is running. The problem I had when I tried to run a thermo was that I could not get much air, certainly less than the standard viscous fan draws, through the radiator to keep the engine cool on the track. Never had the engine overheat using the viscous fan.

Bad idea, skimming the head. Now the face is flat but the top side is still warped, so cams are bent. What do you mean about the clutch pedal? Why is your foot anywhere near the clutch pedal while revving and driving?