blind_elk

Definitely interested in the N82557 kit (adjustable castor bushes, R32 GT-R). Also, might be interested in the following for the R30: N44021 - Adjustable Strut Top N51627 - Lower Control Arm inner bushes N11217 - Steering Coupling N11406 - Steering Idler bush

Please learn to spell!To the best of my knowledge, the L24E didn't run an O2 sensor (L20ET did, though)

Place on Centre Rd, Clayton, near Repco. Can't remember the name, got a "Q" in it somewhere.

I thought it went:ka-ching, ka-ching, ka-ching... PurpleR32, I believe your comment about the FPR and maxed out injectors is incorrect (and it's "they're maxed out"). If you increase the pressure behind the injector, then more fuel will be released when the injector opens. Therefore, you can reduce the duty cycle of the injector at higher fuel pressures. I have read somewhere that this is a far more efficient means of extending the power than by increasing the flow of the injectors; when delivering the same volume of fuel, the spray pattern of a standard injector at the higher pressure is superior to a large injector at lower pressure, so the ability of the engine to combust the A/F mixture is enhanced.

Which temperature sensor are you playing with?

Does the diff have ANY oil in it? If it has, then I wouldn't see a problem. But I still wouldn't be caning it, even at 110 (maybe 80). The diff will be going roundy-roundy, because the front wheels will be driving it. Oil is a standard 80w90 Gear Oil (like Castrol Hypoy 90).

CJ, do you actually read what you have written before you post it? And it makes sense? Back to your problem. Have you checked all the basics? The fuel pump is pumping fuel? (not just making a noise, but pumping fuel) The fuel pump is pumping fuel while the engine is cranking? You have spark? The injectors are working? You have compression? With all this attempting to start, it may well be flooded. Try starting it and hold the accelerator flat to the floor. DO NOT RELEASE THE ACCELERATOR until the engine really revs; not when it first kicks, it has to really rev before you release the pedal.

If I've translated this correctly, the engine will now run, but only if you hold the key in the START position; as soon as you release it back to RUN, the engine dies. Is that a correct summation?If so, then it is possibly a fusible link has blown, or a simple thing like a fuse.

If it's a TPS problem, try simply unplugging then re-connecting the TPS (and I think there are 2 connectors - a SWITCH and a SENSOR).

What diameter? Can you supply a boss kit to suit a R30 Skyline?

Probably depends more on how you topped it up each time. You need to keep the engine running while you slowly add the water, otherwise you risk cracking the block or head when this huge slug of cold water suddenly starts circulating. If you kept the gauge off full-scale, then it's unlikely any serious damage was caused.

Yes Any auto parts supplier (Repco, Autobarn, etc) Unlikely

The half-moon is only an aid to getting the angular relationship between the cam and CAS correct. The CAS keeps turning because of intermeshing of the teeth set on the CAS and the cam. Without the half-moon, you need to visualise where they would line up. If you get it wrong, the engine won't run (but no damage is caused).

Just behind and above the fuel pressure reg.

Couple of thoughts: Is the Thermotimer switching off? Is the Cold Start Air Corrector (the round bit just behind the throttle body) working properly? Is the Cold Start Injector switching off (I've actually disconnected the plug from mine, still starts OK)?

The VVT is an electrical thing - ECU controls a solenoid. The R32's ECU won't know anything about VVT. Of course, that assumes that the engine you are fitting has VVT.

You should be able to get a 'T' with different sizes on each arm to suit the different sizes of hose. At Enzed, etc.

Just remove the fuel pump fuse. You can then crank the engine until you're blue in the face, safe in the knowledge that it won't start. As soon as the oil pressure gauge shows you have oil pressure, then it's safe to replace the fuse, and start the engine.

Try a search for stuff I've posted previously on this topic. You may need to go back 18 months or so.

Probably only a heap of $$$. If your engine is basically stock, then stick with the stock belt.

I'm pretty happy with their Injector cleaner. Haven't had a chance to fully evaluate the E20 - only had it in for about 300km before a broken piston assisted the deposit of the sump contents all over the RH engine bay (via dipstick pipe).

Basically the rings are having trouble keeping all the compressed air/fuel mixture in the combustion area. Some of it slips past the rings and starts pressurising the sump. Probably depends how "excessive" the blowby is. I'm guessing your mechanic has done a leakdown test, so he should know if it is bad enough to start thinking about a rebuild.

You'd be lucky to find a set here. I'd be going straight to my Nissan dealer. But it's also unlikely they are an off-the-shelf item. Another possibility (again, won't be off-the-shelf) - talk to Bill @ Australian Precision Engine Parts in Melbourne - 03 9887 1299 - he might be able to make you some.

The difference is more like 5% (21 is 1 more than 20, ie 20 + 1/20 * 20, and 1/20 = 5%). Fortunately, the speedo will now read higher than reality, so far less likely to get photographed.The error in mine, having gone from a GTS4 to a Stagea (4.083) diff, is roughly 7%. But mine reads under the real speed - caution, Will Robinson!

I think its "C34"