blind_elk

As they say in the classics - Cubic Inches Count. The RB30E would certainly give more torque, but probably doesn't rev really well, being a SOHC engine. They can be transformed with a RB25 head, but it's a lot of stuffing around. My personal choice would be a RB25DE. The DOHC lets it breath well, and will probably rev to 8k.

Yes. 1 bulb is for "head-on" viewing of the indicator, the other bulb is for "side-on" viewing of the indicator.

Give me a call at home tonight - 0421 331 954 - and I'll wander down to your place tomorrow with a multi-meter and other stuff.

I reckon it's a simple means of getting the wheel exactly the way you need / want it. You can select the centre, inner rim and outer rim individually. Once assembled, you then have the width and offset necessary for your particular application.

Japanese Auto Importers 2 / 4 Rutherford Rd SEAFORD 9775 0593 (John)

If you get no ignition lights, then you have no battery power. How do you know the battery's fully charged? Does the engine crank over? Does your stereo still work? Is the clock still working? Or maybe a fusible link has blown.

You're absolutely sure they work when the engine's running? And you're absolutely sure they BLOW air through the radiator? I doubt the thermostat has anything to do with it overheating. If it was going to overheat, it's more likley to do it when the engine is working hard, not when it's just sitting idling. The standard thermostat is supposed to be around 78C, IIRC.

Yes, you can get them from Nissan. And the dealer will know the part number - just ask for the "D"s. Little smear of Silastic as you assemble them into their location in the head.

Are you using the factory IC? It's possible you are getting detonation because the air temp is way too high, and the knock sensors are retarding the system. The factory IC, when used in Oz on a hot day, is about as useful as tits on a bull.

It's their KCA332 kit. It consists of 2 urethane bushes and 2 steel crush tubes, with an eccentric (off-centre) bolt-hole through the tube. If you go into their webstore and search for the kit, there is a (small) picture of the components. (A search for KCA331 will show an assembled kit)

They're rocker covers. Yeah, make sure you haven't caught any wires and such between the cover and the head. Do you know exactly where it's leaking the oil?

Had a chat with Wayne up at Whiteline - he reckons you need to remove the castor rod to make any sort of adjustment to the castor.

Only the one attached to the engine.

Maybe your friend's speedo reads over the real speed (which is the usual level of inaccuracy of speedos). If you have fitted the correct replacement 18" tyres, then the speedo reading should not have varied significantly. Ask the tyre place to show you the manufacturer's specs on the tyres you fitted compared with the tyres you replaced.

I can now see why ypeople can't get anything out of <search>. Just tried to retrieve a For Sale I put up last week. Entered my user_name in the <Filter by member name>, and specified "Last 30 days" <or newer>. Search Classifieds + all sub-forums. My thread was not among the single thread returned. I knew that the title was "Garage Sale", so I tried both "garage" and "+garage" in the <Search by keywords> field (all the other fields as above). On both occasions, all I got was: "Unfortunately your search didn't return any results."

pics sent (they're foggies, FFS).

Waste of bloody time. Might as well talk to a brick wall.

Any decent tyre place should be able to do it for you. Might charge $80.

In my experience, absolutely no problem to cut a coil off a spring. As long as the coil is still captive in the suspension, at full droop, it will not fall out. In fact I bought some lowered springs (name-brand) that were not quite captive, and they never fell out. Only problem was they sat the car too close to the bumpstops. As long as you are sensible about it, then it is not a problem. The major problem is when tools cut half the spring away.

The L-series were all set up so that there was a certain number of chain links between a mark (indent) on the crank chainwheel and a mark on the camwheel (42 springs to mind, but I'm not certain - it should certainly be in the workshop manual). You may be lucky in that on some of the chains, two links were actually slightly different "colour" to the rest; these are the ones you need to line up on the marks. A safe alternative would be to just put the front cover back in place and position the crank pulley on the crankshaft so you have the timing marks available. Now set TDC, then un-assemble (if necessary).

From my experience, they appear to be a pretty standard item nowdays. Maybe try Repco.

I've got 5 you can choose from. $25 each + postage.

Should work exactly the same way with any engine that uses coil packs.

For safety sake, make your mate go out and get some decent, roadworthy tyres. I'm glad I'm not in Sydney to be anywhere near him when the tyres fail to provide friction against the bitumen.

The 15s should be readily available in just about any make and model - they are the stock size for the recent Commodores. Checkout www.btc.net.au . B/S ER562, ER60, Firestone F900 all come in 185/70R14 And B/S ER30, ER592, RE92, Firestone TZ100 all come in 205/65R15