blind_elk

Japanese Auto Importers 2 / 4 Rutherford Rd SEAFORD 9775 0593 (John)

If you get no ignition lights, then you have no battery power. How do you know the battery's fully charged? Does the engine crank over? Does your stereo still work? Is the clock still working? Or maybe a fusible link has blown.

You're absolutely sure they work when the engine's running? And you're absolutely sure they BLOW air through the radiator? I doubt the thermostat has anything to do with it overheating. If it was going to overheat, it's more likley to do it when the engine is working hard, not when it's just sitting idling. The standard thermostat is supposed to be around 78C, IIRC.

Yes, you can get them from Nissan. And the dealer will know the part number - just ask for the "D"s. Little smear of Silastic as you assemble them into their location in the head.

Are you using the factory IC? It's possible you are getting detonation because the air temp is way too high, and the knock sensors are retarding the system. The factory IC, when used in Oz on a hot day, is about as useful as tits on a bull.

It's their KCA332 kit. It consists of 2 urethane bushes and 2 steel crush tubes, with an eccentric (off-centre) bolt-hole through the tube. If you go into their webstore and search for the kit, there is a (small) picture of the components. (A search for KCA331 will show an assembled kit)

They're rocker covers. Yeah, make sure you haven't caught any wires and such between the cover and the head. Do you know exactly where it's leaking the oil?

Had a chat with Wayne up at Whiteline - he reckons you need to remove the castor rod to make any sort of adjustment to the castor.

Only the one attached to the engine.

Maybe your friend's speedo reads over the real speed (which is the usual level of inaccuracy of speedos). If you have fitted the correct replacement 18" tyres, then the speedo reading should not have varied significantly. Ask the tyre place to show you the manufacturer's specs on the tyres you fitted compared with the tyres you replaced.

I can now see why ypeople can't get anything out of <search>. Just tried to retrieve a For Sale I put up last week. Entered my user_name in the <Filter by member name>, and specified "Last 30 days" <or newer>. Search Classifieds + all sub-forums. My thread was not among the single thread returned. I knew that the title was "Garage Sale", so I tried both "garage" and "+garage" in the <Search by keywords> field (all the other fields as above). On both occasions, all I got was: "Unfortunately your search didn't return any results."

pics sent (they're foggies, FFS).

Waste of bloody time. Might as well talk to a brick wall.

Any decent tyre place should be able to do it for you. Might charge $80.

In my experience, absolutely no problem to cut a coil off a spring. As long as the coil is still captive in the suspension, at full droop, it will not fall out. In fact I bought some lowered springs (name-brand) that were not quite captive, and they never fell out. Only problem was they sat the car too close to the bumpstops. As long as you are sensible about it, then it is not a problem. The major problem is when tools cut half the spring away.

The L-series were all set up so that there was a certain number of chain links between a mark (indent) on the crank chainwheel and a mark on the camwheel (42 springs to mind, but I'm not certain - it should certainly be in the workshop manual). You may be lucky in that on some of the chains, two links were actually slightly different "colour" to the rest; these are the ones you need to line up on the marks. A safe alternative would be to just put the front cover back in place and position the crank pulley on the crankshaft so you have the timing marks available. Now set TDC, then un-assemble (if necessary).

From my experience, they appear to be a pretty standard item nowdays. Maybe try Repco.

I've got 5 you can choose from. $25 each + postage.

Should work exactly the same way with any engine that uses coil packs.

For safety sake, make your mate go out and get some decent, roadworthy tyres. I'm glad I'm not in Sydney to be anywhere near him when the tyres fail to provide friction against the bitumen.

The 15s should be readily available in just about any make and model - they are the stock size for the recent Commodores. Checkout www.btc.net.au . B/S ER562, ER60, Firestone F900 all come in 185/70R14 And B/S ER30, ER592, RE92, Firestone TZ100 all come in 205/65R15

But that's what I have to do. I have to literally lock myself IN the car, then unlock before I can start the engine. As did my previous alarm. With this new one, I need to do it with IGN = ACC - cannot do it with IGN = ON. My old alarm only activated the immobiliser once I had removed the keys from the ignition (as does yours). This one activates once the engine has stopped. The keys can still be in the ignition (like when I'm waiting outside a shop while my passenger goes in for something), and the immobiliser will activate 30 seconds after the engine is stopped. Let me clarify - I'm only complaining about the immobiliser here - if the alarm is on, then the doors are locked, and I can't get in the car anyway.I could do this with the previous alarm, too. If the immobiliser had activated, and I tried to start the engine, then the siren will beep - I simply press one of the buttons (IGN still ON), then the immobiliser is de-activated, and I can start the engine. It needs to be FULLY armed ie doors locked, then disarmed before the car will start after the immobiliser has activated. That's the annoying part of it.

I have one of these myself. I'll fill you in on what I know, from having done it, having heard about it, or having head about / done on another model Nissan. Power Up - fit a R31 X-member, then any of the RB-series engines will fit. But that will require a new gearbox and modified tail shaft. Alternatively, an upgrade to a L28 (280ZX) engine, upgraded camshaft + extractors, might come close to what you are chasing. Camber - By relocating the pickup point of the lower control arm, you can possibly crank some camber into it (but probably not "serious" camber). Others have been known to bend the strut at the stub axle connection (I think that's it, but never witnessed it) You won't get more camber by changing the castor. If you fit LJ Torana castor rods IIRC, you effectively get adjustable castor rods, because the threaded section is too long. Hope that gives you some ideas.

I have a set of R32 GTS4 stock springs that have been reset to lower the ride height. I could probably get them to you for about $120 (delivered).

Let me ask some people about freighting it up there. I can probably do that price as a "delivered to your door" price, depending on the freight cost. It should simply drop straight in and bolt up to your gearbox (as willl just about any L-series engine).