blind_elk

Have a chat with Daniel @ DJM Automotive in Burwood. I don't think he's at work this week, though. ph 98082590

I think it's because of the design / shape of the combustion chambers. Just what I was told, but the last thing I need is an engine that pings. Probably 100k on it, but the L-series engines I have found to be almost bulletproof, not like the RB-series.I replied to you "Wanted to Buy" with a price. That would include an intercooler, and the RB-series dump pipe. The engine is set up to run off a Wolf 3D - that is available also, say $300 for ECU + loom. I'm in Melbourne.

How about Yokohama A539s. I know they come in the 15" size, and pretty sure they would also come in the 14" as well. I have them on my R30, they seem OK (although the R30 is not the gutsiest or highest performing beast around!)

Luke, I have one of the hatchback versions. I also investigated just grabbing the turbo gear of an L20ET and whacking it on the side of the L24. However, it was suggested it would probably ping its brains out since the combustion chambers weren't designed to operate in a boost situation. But then, if you installed aftermarket ECU, it would obviously possible to tune it to suit. I happen to have available a L20ET, that I ran in a 240Z for a while. It has since been modified with a RB20DET BB-centre turbo, as well as still having the gear to hook up a Wolf 3D ECU. Also has been modified to use a small intercooler. As for the VL motor, I am lead to believe that basically all that needs to be done to install any RB-series engine into the R30 is to get hold of the R31 X-member, then the engine will drop straight in. Then of course, you need the RB gearbox, and the RB drive shaft.

Just happen to have a L20ET sitting out in the garage. Has a modified RB20DET BB-centre turbo. Can let it go for $350.

I'm sure a search of the forums will dig them out for you (Probably in a thread featuring SydneyKid).Alternatively, have a look at www.whiteline.com.au - they had a R33 project car; I'm sure the settings they developed will be there somewhere (start under "Your Car").

You have to take the head off because the pistons will only come out and go in through the top of the block. If you want to take them out the bottom, you will need to remove the crank. To put them back in through the sump, you need to get the ring compressor up inside the block - well nigh impossible, I reckon. But, it isn't necessary to actually remove the engine from the car. Just raise it off the engine mounts to remove the sump.

Most cars will pull down the camber on the road. That being said, this 33 is older than your first? The suspension is older. The suspension bushes are older. As suggested by FAT32, it's probably time to start replacing bushes (particularly castor bushes), and maybe new shock absorbers.

The guy that installed it (at my "tame" Autobarn) reckons that's the way they all work now. Didn't get a manual, but will ask next time I see them (need to pick up my new DBA4000 rears). Must find out the brand while I'm about it. With the old one, as I said, I could hit either of the buttons, even when IGN = ON and disable the immobiliser. Really seems stupid to have to lock yourself in the car first, just because you stopped the engine for a minute to do something.

When was the last time you had the injectors cleaned? The ignitor modules (little black box at the rear of the valley cover) are prone to start misbehaving under heat stress. They often recover once everything cools off. Try swapping with a known good one. Try cleaning the AFM, maybe swap for a known good one.

The <Search> button might be of some assistance.

Just had a new alarm installed. It has engine and fuel immobilisers. My old alarm, the immobiliser wouldn't activate unless the key was removed from the ignition. If the immobiliser had activated, all I had to do was press one of the buttons, even with ignition in ON position, the immobiliser would deactivate, and I could start the engine. This new one - it activates about 30 sec after the engine is turned off. Even if I leave the keys in the ignition, the immobiliser will eventually activate. Then I have to activate the alarm (locks doors) then de-activate it before I can start the engine. This means that even for something simple like buying fuel, to leave the servo I need to lock myself in the car, then unlock the car before I can start the engine. And the ignition cannot be ON to do this - it has to be in the ACC position. This seems damn stupid - is it supposed to be like this? Does anyone else have an alarm that works like this?

Scott,I have just received a renewal notice for my L2, and it includes a requirement to purchase a CAMS manual. It's part of CAMS' risk management to keep Personal Accident premiums down. EDIT Apologies all. I've obviously misread my renewal notice. You get a "handbook". A CAMS manual is not compulsory (but it is a good idea to own your own).

Each event will have a document (called "Supplementary Regulations") setting out the requirements for the event - what you need, what your car needs, the format of the event, where, when, how, how much. When the event is "open for entries", get hold of that document and READ it. Everything you need to know will be there. Word of advice now - the event IS NOT A RACE. So there is no need to go out there and try and set a new outright lap record. If you haven't driven your car on any race track, particularly this race track, then please - TAKE IT EASY. Your car will handle differently than it does on the road, it will work the brakes harder than it does on the road. Take the opportunity to LEARN. There are no sheep stations at stake. You will not get laughed at if you tootle around letting everyone overtake you. You WILL get laughed at if you put the car into the wall at Turn 1 the very first time you get there.

You fitted the calipers to the correct sides of the car? Bleed nipple at the top. You should be able to simply open the bleed nipple and let gravity do the work of filling the chambers - slow and tedious, but effective. I wouldn't be surprised if the pistons were siezed in the calipers, though.

Actually you don't need to disconnect the battery to reset the ECU. You simply short out 2 pins in the CONSULT port, located down by the fuse block, near your right knee.

Stagea is 4.083

OK, I don't have a RB26DETT in my R32, but it only pulls around 3k rpm on the highway. And that's with a 4.375 diff ratio. The GT-R has a 4.111 ratio, and the GTSt, AFAIK, has a shorter (?, lower number) ratio. So, how slow do you want the engine to be running at 110 kph?

The only thing that will happen is that the sirens might go onto battery backup, and scream their lungs out. You should have a key to turn the sirens off in this situation.

Famous last words - we've all said them. If you are not even getting your Ps until May, then settle for the GTS. Get some experience under your belt. You will have 3 years of learning (not the type of learning to get the licence, but proper learning to DRIVE!) to save up for the turbo version. In the non-turbo version, you will not get into trouble as quickly as you might with the turbo version. Patience, young grasshopper.

For #2, the adjustment mechanism is similar to the one for the alternator. It will be more apparent once you remove the IC pipe. I certainly found it far easier to adjust the belt tensioner this way.

That's the Power Steering pump. Couple of ways to solve the problem. 1. Get a 27 mm socket on the crank pulley. Manually turn the engine over while you press sideways on the belt to guide it back into correct alignment. You will probably need 2 people - 1 down below to turn the crank, the other up top to push on the belt. 2. Loosen off the tensioner of the steering pump. It's on the underside of the pump, so it's often easiest if you remove the IC pipe (the one with, is that the BOV?, in your last pic). You may still need to rotate the pump's pulley, pushing the belt sideways (as in 1 above) to guide the belt back into correct alignment. Hope that makes sense.

A handle of a big-handled screwdriver (about 1" diameter) is perfect for the job. That will lock the timing chain in position, then you can remove the cam bolt and cam wheel.

Snowy,You now need to own a CAMS Manual, and you purchase that at the same time you get the licence. So the cost is likely around $131, as NateR31 indicated.

Trying to make some room in the garage. All prices are negotiable (to a degree). Item: R32 GTS4 RB20DET engine Location: Melbourne Item Condition: Was running well Reason for Selling: Upgraded to RB25DET Price and Payment Conditions: $600, cash on pickup, or direct deposit Extra Info: Doesn't come with Turbo, coil packs / ignitor, differential. Has had the 100k service (timing belt, water pump) about 10k before removal. Item: R32 GTS4 RB20DET engine Location: Melbourne Item Condition: In 4 main bits (block+crank / head / inlet plenum / exhaust manifold) Reason for Selling: Replaced by above when it pooped a piston. Price and Payment Conditions: $200, cash on pickup, or direct deposit Extra Info: Bore was untouched by damage. Rods have been prepped for balance work. Item: Set of 4 17x7.5 +40 rims, 5x114.3, B/S 235/45 Potenza G IIIs, 60% Location: Melbourne Item Condition: See pic Reason for Selling: Upgraded to 8" Price and Payment Conditions: $800, cash on pickup, or direct deposit Extra Info: Item: Set of 4 15x6 +25 rims, 4x114.3, Tyres 50%, suit R30 Location: Melbourne Item Condition: See pic Reason for Selling: Upgraded to RS Impuls Price and Payment Conditions: $400, cash on pickup, or direct deposit Extra Info: Item: Set of 6 ACL Forged pistons / rings, 1mm O/S, for RB25DET Location: Melbourne Item Condition: Unused Reason for Selling: Changed mind about using them. Price and Payment Conditions: $1000, delivered anywhere in Australia Item: Pair R32 GTSt foglamps Location: Melbourne Item Condition: Fair Reason for Selling: Don't fit my 32 Price and Payment Conditions: $80, delivered anywhere in Australia Item: 5 x RB25DET std pistons Location: Melbourne Item Condition: Fair Reason for Selling: Recovered from engine blowup Price and Payment Conditions: $20 each, + postage. Item: R32 GTSt / GTS4 front bar Location: Melbourne Item Condition: Fair. Has FRP lower extension (broken, needs repair) Reason for Selling: Upgraded to GT-R copy Price and Payment Conditions: $40 Contact Details: PM, email ([email protected])