blind_elk

Pretty BS.Where are you? If you're in Melbourne, talk to Andrew at Traction Tyres in Rowville, or Craig at Trackside Tyres in Bayswater.

The ignitor modules are susceptible to heat, and will cause misfires until they cool down again. Try swapping yours with a mate's.

dynamo = alternator. Maybe check out the Yellow Pages (www.yellowpages.com.au) for a company that re-conditions alternators (probably under 'Auto Electrical')

SK, how many bolts should I need to undo to install the front pineapples in the "Maximum Traction" position? I've undone the 2 nuts holding the subframe in place, but the whole assembly doesn't seem keen on dropping (pivoting) so I can insert the pineapple. Tx

Prompted by a new post regarding head torque on a RB20, I decided to test out the Search functions on the forums. In the "Search by Keywords" box, I typed in: torque +"cylinder head" (as per the advice in the "Advanced Usage" sidebar), from 180 days and newer then searched. Among the threads returned, I ended up with: "Porting RB26 Cylinder Head", by Mik, from Oct 13, 2005. Now, be buggered if I can find both terms anywhere in that thread. So, is the search engine so bloody finnicky, or am I just too stupid to understand how to make it work properly (if so, how should I have constructed the query?)

Yes, I understand all that. And I reckon the max / min is the other way round?! No it doesn't. The hole is a clear hole, with no threads or anything. The bolt simply passes through and out the other side, and a nut screws on to lock it all tight.Maybe, as with the camber kit, Whiteline has redesigned the method of adjustment of the castor bushes. But there is no way mine works the way you have described, Duncan. The kit I have is simply 2 urethane bushes and 2 steel rods with off-centre bolt-holes through them. There is no castor bush bolt.

When you tune the PFC, you set a value at a particular load / rpm point. But the engine doesn't necesarily run exactly on those map points. So the PFC has a guess (it "interpolates") at what the value would be at that exact load / rpmeg say you set fuelling at 1.40@750, 1.42@1000, 1.45@1250 rpm points in a particular load band. Now the engine is idling at 875, and you can't program a fuel delivery for 875 rpm, so the PFC has to calculate what fuel would be at 875, based on the values you have told it for 750 / 1000. That would mean a fuel delivery of 1.41, since 875 is halfway between 750 and 1000, and 1.41 is midway between 1.40 and 1.42. Now, because the engine idle isn't perfectly stable (it might wander +/- 20 rpm), then the amount of fuel required will continually be being re-calculated. The same is happening with the ignition, and you can't necesarily run the engine on the exact load point you have programmed. That is why you are seeing the ignition timing varying from the values you set.

No, the kit is not installed (I removed it and swapped for "standard" urethane replacements). I've greased up the inside of the bush, greased the rod and shoved the rod into the bush - and there is no way that that rod will rotate inside the bush! The bolt goes all the way through the rod (not like the adjustable camber bushes). So how on earth do you adjust them once installed?

They are located in the block, directly under runners 2 & 5 of the inlet plenum.

AAC Valve. Do a search on how to clean it.

Looks similar to a component of the first alarm I had fitted to my 32. I think it had something to do with the "proximity / motion sensor".

If you don't have a front mount it wil be easier, but simply jack up the front of the car and manually release the bonnet lock. You should be able to see / feel where the cable attaches to the bonnet lock - move the pivot arm to the driver's side and the lock should release.

Closed loop has NOTHING whatsoever to do with ignition timing (in the sense that you have raised, at least). Closed loop is where the ECU monitors the O2 sensor, and makes adjustments to the fuelling to create a stoichiometric mixture. It does this in a reactive cycle, so the A/F readings cycle up and down the range of A/F readings, oscillating around the stoichiometric point. ie A/F lean, add fuel. A/F still too lean, add more fuel. A/F rich, reduce fuel. A/F still too rich, reduce fuel. A/F too lean, add fuel. etc. If you are varying the load or throttle, the ECU should realise that it cannot make a stoichiometric mixture, and will drop out of closed loop until it senses a steady state, at which point it re-engages closed loop. In most programmable ECUs, it should be possible to tell the ECU when closed loop is and is not active, how it should make adjustments, and how big those adjustments should be.

Skylines generally run rich, particularly under boost. So it's quite likely it's carbon from a rich mixture. It's quite possible to put out a cloud of black that you can't see from the driver's seat. The other possibility is that Optimax has been known to put out some goop in the exhaust that will coat the arse-end of the car - the coating tends to disappear as soon as you stop using Optimax.

Just had a look at the kit again - the steel offset rods are a very tight fit in the bush (although I haven't greased them up or anything). Should they be that tight (probably where I got the idea that they would be difficult to adjust). And I still can't figure how you would make an adjustment with the whole bush assembly wedged inside the chassis mount.

If it actually runs like the TT is working or the ignition hasn't been switched off, then it's an electrical problem that is holding the ignition circuit open / on. Why not switch the TT on, even set for 30 seconds, and see if it will turn the engine off.

No. Castor rods control fore / aft movement of the suspension - they generally align with the length of the car. Lower control arms connect the suspension / hub to the cross-member - they are perpendicular to the length of the car. Not recommended. The positioning of the offset affects wheel alignment, therefore handling. You will need to have the car hooked up on an alignment machine so that the bushes are adjusted correctly / evenly.Edit - The other problem is you need a press to remove the rubber bush and fit the new urethane bushes.

The spring only supports the weight of the car. So pre-loaded or not, the ride should be unaffected. The "jiggliness" of the ride is possibly due to the valving of the Konis - they control the oscillations of the springs when the car travels over irregularities in the road surface. You may also be reaching the limt of "bump" travel of the Koni, resulting in your car hitting the bump-stops - that certainly gives a rough ride.

My GTS4 is missing 2 doors then!

OK, thanks for that. I might give them another go then. Although +/- 0.75 deg castor adjustment isn't such a lot, is it?

I was hoping you'd know the answer, SK. But from memory, the crush tube is inside the chassis mount, and the rods are difficult to extract from that area without undoing everything. Apart from the fact that the bushes are quite a tight fit everywhere (crush tube in bush and bush in housing).