blind_elk

If you are in Melbourne, take your rotors up to Andrew at C&A Auto Fashion in Blackburn, and he will get them slotted for you. The other alternative is R32 GTS (N/A) rotors.

Possibly a sticking hydraulic lifter. Nulon make some stuff that's supposed to be able to clean them out. Worth a try.

Been there, done that. Search for relevant posts.

Fuel pump is priming? working? Have you got power to the injectors? One side of the plug should have +12V when IGN = ON. Have you got the fuel lines on the right way round?

How old is the battery? How long since you last started the car? The clicking sound is the solenoid engaging the pinion of the starter motor onto the flywheel. At the same time. it connects the circuit to spin the starter motor. The starter motor draws a LOT of current / voltage. If the battery is low, it draws so much that the solenoid can't hold, and the circuit disconnects.

You could possibly make a frame out of flat steel to offset the attachment of the seat to the rails.

...it only involves moving a stick ... PFFFTT!!!!! Go Plan1 - you need to be able to practice as much as possible. And you can't do that if you don't have the car to do it in. And make it a cheap, low-powered car - that way you can't get into too much trouble too quickly. Reminder - you aren't (technically) permitted to drive a R32 GTSt on a Victorian Probationary Licence.

Paul, Still looking? I've still got the one that came on my Stagea transplant engine.

Yes

Here's the process: Check that the battery and alternator are doing their jobs. The battery should not be much more than 14V with engine running. If it's less, then the alternator needs attention. If it's more, and increases with revs, then the regulator (in the alternator) is stoofed. Now, disconnect the +ve terminal from the battery. Connect an ammeter (multimeter set on Amps) between the +ve battery terminal and the +ve clamp. There should be a current flow indicated. Now start pulling fuses until the current suddenly drops. That gives you the circuit that is causing the problem. Now start disconnecting stuff on that circuit to find out which one is causing the problem. A common cause of this problem is the light in the boot not turning off properly. Next would be the alarm, closely followed by the CD / radio (the battery backup of the settings). In combo with a faulty / old battery, any of these could drain the battery overnight. Hope that helps.

The ignitors become susceptible to heat and start to cause misfires.

Which racetrack is open Mondays?

I think that is what you said.AFAIK all the (silver) RB20s ran the same cams (the red ones were slightly different lift / duration). I doubt it's a problem with the cams as such. You should be able to hear the engine firing, it's just that it's firing at the wrong time in the cycle. The CAS and cam align on a set of teeth as well. The teeth are far enough apart that the engine will only fire when the CAS is close to the correct position. Worst case, you should eventually get there by moving the CAS 1 set of teeth at a time until the engine fires somewhere near the right spot.

Pretty much the same CAS. I've fitted a RB25 CAS onto a RB20 with no dramas.

Sorry, I thought the GT-R's sat out in the centre, and the boost gauge sat up in the cluster. Then again, what would I know - I don't own a 32 GT-R.

Sorry, can't contribute to this argument - the ball hadn't been invented when I was at school !!

The locating key on the new head is broken. You need to peer down into the end of the cam, you should see where the key used to be connected. Then you need to visualise where the matching key in the CAS would line up with the cam's key.

No, it sits up in the top LH corner of the instrument cluster. (on the 32 at least).

There's probably a pretty good reason why Nissan didn't design the front with a LSD centre. So it's probably not a good idea.

Nissan's spec for engine oil is 7.5W-30 - the closest to that is Synthetic R 5W-30, which is what I'm using right now.

1) consider the grade of oil and the age of the oil. Or the sender may be slightly faulty. 2) As has been suggested numerous times on these forums: a) do you have an aftermarket steering wheel? b) how is the P/S fluid level. 3) May sound stupid, but check the connections onto the TPS. And you (almost) MUST have same tyre sizes front and back (that almost includes even wear). Try swapping tyres F->B, B->F (never L->R, R->L)

Give the man a cigar.

Check the water pump - the fins have probably corroded away.

Castor rods = Tension rods - they control the suspension from moving back / forward. Tie rods are part of the steering mechanism - connect the steering rack to the wheel hub.

In the R32, the clutch pedal box has a bolt near the top. You need to remove the instrument cluster to make access to the bolt a whole lot easier. Then: remove the split-pin from the pivot pin holding the clutch rod onto the pedal, and remove the pin. Unbolt the clutch master cylinder - no need to actually remove it. When you put it all back together, don't be a slack-arse (like someone I know) - put the split-pin back in the pivot pin.