blind_elk

Traction Tyres in Rowville should be able to supply and fit a urethane (Nolathane) replacement bush.

If there's a warning light on, then there is a problem somewhere. You don't just go around cutting wires so the light goes out - that doesn't make the problem go away.

The change in handling could be due to the wider tyres on the rear giving more grip. Also the brand / model / style of tyre may affect the handling (grip) characteristics.

Maybe they'd be better off developing a tyre that won't blow apart on long bends!

Yesterday, had to go visit friends in Eildon. That involves a trip through the Black Spur. Having only just run in the new engine, thought I would give it a light workout up the Spur. Travelling through and past Healesville, I was a bit worried, because we were following a Patrol towing a boat. Fortunately he was a considerate driver, because just as we passed the 100 kph sign out of Healesville, he pulled over to let us by. That was the last set of taillights we saw until after Narbethong!! Car performed very nicely. Only pulled max 4800 anywhere, and 88% load (Wolf told me so). But that engine (RB25DET) has torque coming out its ears - some corners, the car simply accelerated from relatively low speed in 4th gear. And the hairpins, the car was keen to push through them in 3rd. And that's with the 4.083 Stagea diffs, not the 4.375 GTS4 diffs. But, yeah, a clean run up the Black Spur - probably never happen in a month of Sundays.

Basically, everything you need to know is displayed on the hand controller's main display. RTFM.Watch what the display does when you s-l-o-w-l-y press the throttle.

SK, Always value your input on suspension matters, but I'm having trouble interpreting the pineapples install. The photos show 1,2 being used on the REAR of the subframe, but the diagrams show 1,2 being used at the FRONT. Similar arse-about-ness for 3,4. Or am I misunderstanding the the relationship between the photos and the diagrams?

I've got a set of "ACL" forged pistons, 1mm O/S, to suit the 25. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...topic=86310&hl=

Not having a lot of luck with that beast, are you carl? I had a set made for my RB25DET by Australian Precision Engine Parts here in Melbourne. Not sure a RB20DET piston is a stock item, but I can supply them a sample RB20DET piston if you want. They don't seem to have a website, but the guy lives just down the street. Pistons (incl gapless rings) are about A$280 each. (US$200)

PM sent

It's a temperature probe. Doesn't matter too much if it's not connected.

If I've deciphered what you said correctly, I think you are planning to replace the RB20DET in your A31 Cefiro with a RB25DET from a R33 Skyline. Is that correct? How are the engine mounting systems "totally different"? If they are "totally different", have you considered just swapping the "legs" and rubber mounts from your RB20 onto the RB25? AFAIK, a RB-series engine is a RB-series engine. (I know a RB25DET drops straight into a R32 GTS4)

I keep getting this stupid error message: A runtime error has occurred. Do you wish to debug? Line 53 Error: Object expected Is this the foru, because it only seems to occur when I'm on the forums, and only at work (doesn't happen at home, where I use Linux OS)

Nissan only sold the (R32) GT-R here. All the GTSts etc were grey imports.

WTF are you doing!!!!!! You don't need to damage the gear in any way, shape or form. It should slide off over the woodruff key.

How old is your battery? Skylines are notorious for their susceptibility to voltages and charge rates. The other possibility is the ignitor module for the coils - they tend to be susceptible to excessive heat and will often stop until given the chance to cool off a bit.

My manual R32 has (actually had - don't have a RB20 any more) wires coming out of that plug (and the bottom one as well).I believe that the one we can see is the TP Switch, which tells the ECU if the throttle is closed or WOT and is sometimes the cause of the high idle often reported on these forums. The one on the underside is the TP Sensor, which tells the ECU the actual throttle position.

I've got it at home - what do you need to know?

You can hire the equipment from Meridien Motorsport. Or I think Traction Tyres in Rowville might be able to do it for you.

How much fuel in the tank? When was the last time the fuel filter was changed?

It's not a matter of pressure for the wheel, it's a matter of pressure for the tyre. The tyre's manufacturer should have a recommended inflation pressure for the particular tyre you have fitted to the rim.

For the adaptor, see Steve at EFI Hardware (in Melbourne, Mitcham). The Malpassi has 3 ports - the one underneath is the return to the fuel tank. The 2 on the sides, you can use either to receive fuel from the fuel rail. And then there's the little doover on top for a manifold pressure feed and the adjusting locknut beside it.

Anyone noticed that you can't type ALL CAPS for a word in the topic title eg although you might make your topic title "R32 ATTESSA Problem", it ends up being "R32 Attessa Problem" or "RB25DET Rebuild" becomes "Rb25det Rebuild"

My experience with fitting thermo fans is that you need to do a lot of extra engineering to ensure that air goes through the radiator while the car is moving. That would involve constructing baffles to prevent air going down in front of the radiator and out under the car, and baffles to prevent the air going around the sides of the radiator. In my opinion, it's not worth the trouble for the couple of rwkW you will gain.

Wide Open Throttle. There are 2 coolant temp sensors. They are located in the pipe off the top radiator hose. The 2-pin one is for the ECU, the 1-pin one is for the gauge in the instrument cluster. You really only need to wory about the 2-pin one. If you have a GTS as well, and you know the GTS is OK, then you could swap them over and see if the problem continues.