blind_elk

Have you had the injectors cleaned recently. If not, then it may be caused by some gunk holding the injector partially open all the time. If it floods, there are 2 things to do. Either crank with WOT (this allows plenty of air in to burn with the fuel) or remove the fuel pump fuse and crank until the engine "kicks", then replace the fuse.

Should be better once you fit the 044. If you need an adapter for replacing the FPR, talk to Steve at EFI Hardware - he can supply them so you can fit the Malpassi. I don't think it matters a bit which way up you mount the Malpassi.

Talk to Bill at Australian Precision Engine Parts in Wantirna - he'll build you a nice set of forgies (with total seal rings). He may need a sample to work from, but I can provide that if you need it.

It's not an idiotic question - the only idiotic question is the one you DON'T ask. So I'd say that doesn't make you a moron. When you popped the bonnet, you would have noticed that it's pretty crowded in there. So there's not much chance for fresh air to circulate and take away a bit of heat. As for the gauge, the needle sits probably around half way at least under normal conditions. So what you see is probably normal.

KYB make a replacement (front) cartridge for the R31 3.0 . But if the Pintara is the same strut, then the cartridge is presumably suitable for the Pintara as well. P/N is 365084

How old is your battery? (Skylines are notorious for their sensitivity to voltages and charge rates). Check the connections onto the alternator. And maybe the plugs on the HICAS computer.

R33s are ELECTRIC HICAS, I'm pretty sure. Check all the connections for cleanliness and good contact

They don't have a "centre diff". They have a transfer case which sends some drive to a front differential (hangs off the side of the sump). GTT doesn't have a front diff and transfer case because it's not AWD (?). I suspect you are talking about the rear diff (which is located in the "centre" of the axles). GT-Rs, AFAIK, have a 4.111 final drive (diff) ratio. Stageas run 4.083 . R32 GTS4s run 4.375 . Don't know about the GTT. But, yes, the GT-R diff should fit into the GTT.

Air Con has its own diagnostics. Make sure the system has gas, never assume. Are you running the standard engine cooling fan? The A/C radiator needs air flow to help cool the gas.

The sump bolts are different. So you can't simply transfer the sump from a RB20 to the RB25. You really need to use the AWD engine. I've done this conversion, but with a RB25DET from a Stagea.

The stuff you get in Melbourne doesn't come from the Kwinana (Perth) refinery, so supply in Melbourne won't be affected. Actually, I'm in Perth right now - noticed the local BP had shut down a couple of its pumps. But price still coming down (114.9 ULP)

Check the spring in the wastegate controller.

Generally, you still own the car, so I guess you are free to do anything (legal) that you want to it. You will need to cost any intended mods into the lease cost, because you will end up paying for them one way or the other.

Check your brake fluid level

It needs to be punched. There is a bit of a lip on the outer CV joint - you need to hook a long screwdriver or similar on there, then thump it with a big hammer, then the shaft should pop out of the diff housing. All after removing the hub from the outer end of the shaft.

You get what you pay for.

The guy had been recommended and I had used him before to respray the rear wing. I was happy with the job he did, so I didn't bother with other quotes. Yes, the car is as you deciphered (engine is from a Stagea).

Mine cost me $500, but that included some work to reinforce some thin sections where it wasn't manufactured too well. And it was Black.

I did my R32 GTS4 through Novation Leasing Company (NLC Pty Ltd). Level 3, 102 Albert Rd, S Melbourne 8699 7000 www.nlc.com.au But that was nearly 6 years ago now. Can't hurt to talk to them

The Gibson Motorsport GT-Rs ran 9.2:1 @ 1.8 bar.

I have a Stagea RB25DET being run by a Wolf 3D 4+. There is a problem with the TPS, in that there is a wear pattern that prevents the Wolf "seeing" a clean linear throttle position. This prevents setting the "fuel cut on over-run" (shutting down injectors at 0 throttle, as in gear changing), and getting smooth low-load / low-throttle running. Is the sensor repairable, or should I really be investing in a new TPS. Thanks in advance.

I wouldn't worry too much about the ECU error code right now. It would appear that one of the wires to #1 injector has a break in it somewhere. Use your multimeter to check continuity of the wiring. 1 side will connect to the ECU (possibly pin 101). The other side is +12V when the IGN is ON.

Well, as long as you are not driving in Melbourne, feel free to be a bigger risk on the roads than you might ordinarily have been.

Broken throttle cable? Broken return spring on throttle?

1. [sEARCH] !! 2. Get rid of the timer. If you can control yourself for 1 minute before you are ready to stop, then you don't need the timer - it is quite safe to turn the engine off immediately. 3. Synchros. But, if the clutch engages quite close to the floor, then it might be time for a replacement clutch.