blind_elk

RB20DET, but I don't think it makes a lot of difference which engine.

Pair cam wheels, exhaust side modified to be adjustable. $100

As I suggested in another thread, it's not a good idea to skim a warped head. Only the face gets skimmed, leaving the cam towers in a slight arc (might work for a pushrod engine, but not for OHCs). I believe the correct procedure is to shove it in a press and press it flat again - with heat if necessary. Last head I warped is probably now a boat anchor. I reckon if you measure the head thickness at both ends and in the middle, you will discover that it is thicker in the middle.

Tyres are designed to fit a particular range of rim widths. If you "stretch" a tyre, then the rim is probably not within the design range of the tyre. If you run a tyre on a rim that it is not designed for, you run the risk of having insurance invalidated - car will be unroadworthy. And frankly, any tyre technician who stretches a tyre onto a rim should be shot. Frankly, if you only want, say, a 235 tyre on the car, then get rims designed for a 235 tyre. Don't try and "stretch" them onto a rim designed for a 265 tyre. We'll all be safer on the roads.

Simple solution to that "problem" - when you get back to your pit bay, open the bonnet, let the engine idle until the engine cools. But if you've slowed down on the "cooldown" lap, the movement of the car through the air will cool the engine via the radiato (seemed to work fine for GroupA Sierras after a punishing practice session at Sandown). Which is why thermos can be set to turn on quite high (mid 90s, even) - they do not need to run just because the engine is running. The problem I had when I tried to run a thermo was that I could not get much air, certainly less than the standard viscous fan draws, through the radiator to keep the engine cool on the track. Never had the engine overheat using the viscous fan.

Bad idea, skimming the head. Now the face is flat but the top side is still warped, so cams are bent. What do you mean about the clutch pedal? Why is your foot anywhere near the clutch pedal while revving and driving?

The lights are error indicators ("Warning! Warning! Danger, Will Robinson"). Normally if the light comes on it stays on until you stop and re-start the engine. Could be any number of reasons why it might "flash".

If you are only expecting to use it once, have you considered hiring one - Coates, Kennards, etc.

The tie rods they got were too short (overall length). Pretty sure they would have been GTSt ends. They managed to fit the correct lengty inner rods, which was the main reason the car was in in the first place. Anyway, semi-solved - put the old ones back on for now, ordered a pair from eBay.

Found these: http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/OEM-2-FRONT-OUTER-TIE-ROD-END-NISSAN-SKYLINE-GTR-R32-R33-R34-RB26-/110919715816?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item19d3548be8 for the GT-R. Ad mentions length and height, maybe they will work - will check originals in the morning.

Wrong length, from what I could gather from my mechanic. (can't remember if too short or too long). This is the GTS4, not GTSt. Should grab the old ones in the morning before I start talking to Nissan dealers.

I have my GTS4 in fixing the rack ends, my mechanic tells me the (front) tie rods also need replacing (only to be expected in a 24 year old 240 k car). He apparently got sent the wrong ones, and has been told the correct ones are only available "genuine" - @ $185 EACH from Nissan. I need to know if there are aftermarket ones available at a lot less than Nissan charge. In Melbourne. TIA Edit: it's a 1989 model, if that makes a difference (which it seems it does).

You say it has new tierods. Was it doing this before they were fitted? Reason I ask is I had a similar, though intermittent , problem. On left turns, the car would suddenly flick further left, like the back end suddenly stepping out. I thought it was the HICAS going nuts. Finally tracked it down to the nut on the front right tierod had lost the split pin and the retaining nut had undone itself about 1cm. So, the ball joint was slowly moving upwards until a left turn when it would pop back into position. I was getting sudden dynamic alignment changes as the right corner was loaded up.

After I put a RB25DET from a Stagea into my R32 GTS4, I found I needed different gearing. I simply had the CW & P from a Stagea rear diff transferred onto the centre of the GTS4 rear diff (not what I actually meant to ask for, but a better result all round). (transferred the whole front diff assembly to keep matched ratios)

There's a sticky thread at the top of this General Maintenance section - have a read! At idle, it probably doesn't matter if the ecu is running closed or open loop - there probably isn't sufficient gas flow for the sensor to work correctly. It's likely set quite lean, hence reading 0, a blip of the throttle dumps a load of fuel (acceleration enrichment) so the mixture goes rich (O2 = 1). If your tuner couldn't explain this to you, find a new tuner.

Why are you asking? FYI - L26 is a stroked L24. L28 is a bored L26.

More correctly, can't transfer rego without RWC. If buyer gets RWC, you can continue on the same plates.

Can't seem to post a pic, but lights as follows: left side: Anti-Lock HICAS Handbrake Battery and right side: Oil 4WD I believe you must have ABS, because ATTESA uses the ABS wheel sensors to detect slip.

Don't you mean "trunk"?

Have you checked the globes? The lights should come on when the key is turned to "ON" (before "START") - its a check that the globes are working. Otherwise, if the lights come on while the engine is running, it means there is an error in the HICAS &/or ATTESA.

So, why exactly do you think you need a strut brace? Do you have the best / optimum springs? Do you have the best / optimum shock absorbers? Do you have the best / optimum anti-roll bars? Have you got the best / optimum weight balance / distribution on the chassis? Are you chasing the last 1000th of a second lap time on the race track? A strut brace should be the very last thing you want / need to improve the handling of you car. (That said, yes I have a strut brace fitted to my 32 GTS4. But I doubt I could tell the difference if I removed it)

Why not standard cams, then dial in some adjustable cam wheels to give the cams a bit more overlap.

Just because the switch fails doesn't mean you need the fans on. So the engine gets a bit warm in heavy traffic, it won't kill it. Once the car gets moving again, temps will fall back to proper levels. You DO NOT need the fans on permanently, EVER.

One, the top of the engine has red rocker covers, on the other the top of the engine has silverish rocker covers. (Oh, and ECCS is found the silvertop, redtop has NICS)